O.K. here goes, I want to loose some weight on my 95 SN95 but I don't know which parts are the heaviest to loose the most weight. I found an article on some website a while back but don't remember what the site was but it had a complete list of what every part weighs on the car. I have already removed the smog pump and lines and put on lighter wheels, if anyone has a weight list or knows a website with the parts and weights I would greatly appreciate it.
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TODDS95SN95 Best 1/4 mile 11.997 at 115.69mph on used BFG drag radials!
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95 red gt 5spd,3.73frpp,h-pipe,2.5flowmasters,hurst billet+,msd coil,frpp 9mm wires,mac unequal shorties,weld pro stars,u/d pulleys,bbk 225lph fuel pump,autometer sh/lite,lakewood t/a lift bars,Spec stg 1 clutch,steeda cable/quadrant,GT-40 intake,C&L 76mm maf w/true flow pipe,NOS wet nitrous kit(125 shot),T56 tranny.
I don't know of any website lists items of wegiht reduction. But, I used to race BM's. The car had to be street legal. So I ened up taking out all convient parts such as sound molding, inner door panel, the carlets, ripped out seats and replaced it with lighter raving seat, no rear seat, no speakers, no amps, no stereo. One thing that really helped was when i replaced side and rear screen with plexy glass. Expensive, but all helped.
It's all depends on how much you are willing to spend. It money is not an issues, you can almost replace most of cast iron parts of your car with lighter alloy metal in the engine, but not the blocks, unless you want all alunimum engine. And the carbon hood, or even one piece front (fenders and the hood in one that opens up away from the car or detachable).
Other than that, loos the a/c, and loose some electric gadjets in the car and install smaller alternator and alunimum radiator, etc.
are you using you are car in a race? or just want to gain acceleration?
Just a few thoughts here... Pull out all the seats and carpet and scrap all the sound deadening material off and put it all back together. Loose the spare and jack. ditch the back seat with a cool looking delete kit. After that its up to you, do you really need door panels and a dash board? LOL....
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
i have yet to see a cool rear seat delete kit.thay all look like crap,ply wood covered in black carpet with a gold hinge.and it looks stupid to me when its in the car.but thats my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.you want to save weight?aluminum parts and tubular k-member and a-arms.that would save some weight for you
I agree on the seat delete kits, plus I like having the rear seat incase I need it. The K-member and control arms is coming this fall, I'm looking for something that I could remove at little or no cost for now though. Thanks for the replies.
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TODDS95SN95 Best 1/4 mile 11.997 at 115.69mph on used BFG drag radials!
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95 red gt 5spd,3.73frpp,h-pipe,2.5flowmasters,hurst billet+,msd coil,frpp 9mm wires,mac unequal shorties,weld pro stars,u/d pulleys,bbk 225lph fuel pump,autometer sh/lite,lakewood t/a lift bars,Spec stg 1 clutch,steeda cable/quadrant,GT-40 intake,C&L 76mm maf w/true flow pipe,NOS wet nitrous kit(125 shot),T56 tranny.
Theres a website I found but it not the website I was thinking about. It probably the same one you seen also. It was pretty descriptive in the weights of everything. I will post it if I find it....
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'94 Rio Red Cobra Mustang/15k miles
04/04/05-MAC 1 5/8 ceramic coated longtubes, MAC 2 1/2 durablack O/R H, Flowmaster American Thunder 2 1/2 Catback (S/S tips)
06/02/05-70mm BBK T/B, 76mm C&L MAS/intake system
01/31/06-FRPP 3.55's, GMS upper/lower control arms
I've enbarked on a never ending battle; to be the sh*t!
N.O.S. it's like a hott chick with an STD. You want to hit it, but your afraid of the consequences.
This list also has some "universal" applications. But is mostly for our SN95 Mustangs. Weight reduction is equal to Hp/Tq but has more advantages.
Here's a run down of some factory parts and what they weigh.
NOTICE: AMR CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU CAUSE TO YOUR CAR OR YOURSELF OR OTHERS WITH THIS LIST. Factory Weights:
Front swaybar & mounts : 16lbs
Factory K-member/A-arms : 130 lbs heavier than AJE K-member & coilovers
Factory brakes : 30 lbs heavier than Aerospace brakes
Strut tower brace : 10 lbs
Things that you can remove and replace:
-Remove Spare tire & Jack
-Racing Seats
-Remove Air Conditioning
-Rear Seat Delete
-Sound Deadning. In trunk and under rear seat and in interior panels
-Trunk Panels
-25lb weight on inner right front fender
-Remove the Dogbone
-Strut tower brace
-Smog System
-Aluminum Heads
-Fiberglass or Carbon Fiber Hoods
-Remove Spoilers
-Carbon Fiber Trunk
-Tubular K-member
-A-Arms
-Rear Control Arms
-Get a Gym Membership
-Aluminum Driveshaft
-Aluminum underdrive pulleys
-The black braces behind the rear tires (Inside the fenders)
-Foglights and mounting braces
-Aluminum flywheel
-PBR or Cobra brakes (PBR's are 8lbs lighter per side)
Maximum Motorsports HD rear lower control arms: 13lb
Custom rear seat delete kit: 13lb
Ford Racing aluminium driveshaft: 11lb
Hayden HD transmission oil cooler: 1lb
TOTAL: 38lb
...and a more expanded list including other weight reduction items that I don't have:
A batt. relocate to right rear and removal of the wieght inside of the right front fender will lose close to 50 lbs. off the nose of your car all in front of the front tires should really help the launch.
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Stang UP Fam, Member
I might be addicted to these lil cars...
Aw Hell I Am
514 big block 84 hatch to soon terroize AZ..