I'd be willing to bet that its code 211, PIP failure. All the other codes are probably just from having different sensors disconnected when you were cleaning/checking them. The PIP is like a 4 dollar part so I'd replace that. I've had mine go out twice before and it does about the same thing, no power loss to speak of except when it just stalls then it'll usually start after cooling off a little.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
I replaced the MAF and the intake temp sensor last night and I have a new RIDE. The thing is flipping peppy. I'm going to get a ticket.............
what's a PIP? If it's a cheap part I'll drop one in. At this point I can't believe the improvement the MAF made.
The mechanic that found the engine codes was worried about that 211 code also. He said that I may have a bad stator? Or the distributor shaft may be bent. Do you guys buy into that?
So where is the PIP? Somone else said something like that too. Would that cause the intermidaite problems? I just dont understand why cold it starts, but if its hot, forget about it.
Big Dog, why did you replace them, because of the code? I cleaned my MAF and IAT about a couple of weeks ago (roughly when all the problems started) but I couldnt see any actaul signs of wear.
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
The stator and the PIP are the same thing, I've also heard it call the pick up coil and the hall effect sensor. It's like four bucks, the only thing is you have to take apart the distributor to put it in. It sits inside the plastic housing and so you have to take off the rotor and then pry off that little rotating plate that the rotor sits on to get to it. Once you have that off you'll see it. It's just a little plastic thing with wires coming out that exit the side of the distributor. Once you see the new part you'll know exactly how to do it. And, yes that will cause off and on starts, it'll kill when it gets hot and if you let it cool off a little it'll start again that is until it fails completely and your car won't run at all.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
I will replace it now that you explained it. I am hoping this fixes it, its beganing to piss me off.
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
Dude you don't even want to know. Mine finally went out on me about 50 miles from my house on my way back from my girlfriends at 3am with class in the morning.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
Guys I'll tear that distributor apart and see if I can drop a new PIP in. Alex to answer your question I replaced the MAF & the intake temp sensor it cost me $115 bucks for both parts at NAPA. Mine didn't show any wear either. The thing runs like it's got a new engine. It didn't like resetting the computer very much but once it was dialed in all was right with the world. I have one more relay switch located up by the radiator that I have already paid for and I should be great. CCRM? Is what the ford guy called it. One less thing to worry about I guess.
95.0 I'll make sure I get the stator/PIP/hall effect sensor changed out too. If it's that cheap I can't afford not to.
I am turning over my Yokohama Avid V4S's every time I take a corner. I'm not used to this thing running so well.
I know I am already working on my wife for the money (I thought you said cleaning would make it all better.......)
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
I already did the ignition control module. I'm down to a relay board that comes in from FORD today and a stator. I died yesterday at a red light. The damn thing runs so good now and it still dies. I hope these last two parts will get the job done.
I won't know what to do with myself when I fix this GREMLIN. I'll have to start buying performance parts...................
When trying to replace the "stator"... otherwise known as a "pickup" (is that right?)... I got the distributor apart and didn't have the guts to pry off the round plate that sits on the shaft. Will this plate just pry off without breaking?
Found The Error Codes 
