ok guys I have replaced the stator in the distributor and all is right with the world. The machine hasn't died on me and I have full power. Thank you so much for all your help. I put a thousand dollars in my VERT and it turned out to be a $35 dollar part.................................
All thing considered I think my car runs better then it ever has and I hope it will run well for a LONG LONG time.
My wife went up and picked a stator up too, it was also 35 bucks. I told her it wasnt right because I thought they said it should be 4 bucks or so. Does the stator have a hall sensor with 3 wires going to a module that appears sit on the inside of the dist and has a rubberish coating, that also has three connections from what i dont know?
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
Alex I couldn't figure out how to get the distributor out of the car. I was afraid to just yank it. I understand there is a bolt at the base of the distributor that releases the shaft so you can yank it out. But I let my mechanic drop it in and reset my timing. Mine is an automatic and it will chirp second gear. Life is good. I really don't suggest you pull the distributor shaft unless you know what you are doing. if you put it back wrong your car won't run at all................................
35$? I'm the person that said 4$ because I bought mine at autozone for like 4 bucks and change. The one I had to put in was actually out of a 96 F-150, so the guy says.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
Well I am sort of at a lost. This is what I have done so far. I replaced the stator, cleaned the MAF, AIT, TPS and IAV. Cleaned, buffed and polished throttle body and air meter body. Changed fuel filter, ran injector cleaner and installed BBK CIA fenderwell system. Replaced plugs, wires, caps and rotor with MSD, installed MSD blaster coil.
It still has the problems, when it is hot it starts then dies immedialty after I shut it off to get gas or something. About after 20-30 times of this it finally starts but keeps spitting and sputtering wanting to die. Immediatly afterwards on the road if I slowly let into it, nothing, but if I take my foot off and stab it, hesitation and sputtering then acceleration, although this goes away after about ten miles. Now sometimes i have noticed it revving high when I get home for work, push in the clutch and it sits there at 1500 or 2000 slowly climbing down after about 30 seconds. This symptom is new and leads me to think its for sure fuel related. My next step is to change the fuel pressure regulator and injectors.
The thing is all these problems are sparatic expect the starting and dies after it is hot. I am about to drive this thing off a cliff if my wife doesnt kill me first for spending all this money on a "dont worry about it work car"
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
you have to be getting engine codes Alex. I had to bring mine to Ford to get them out of the computer. Have someone put a fuel pressure guage on it too. I had to do mine also. It still only gets 32lbs of pressure. But I guess that's within spec. You can get an adjustable one. They should be set to around 37ilbs from what I hear from the guys at FORD..............
Best of luck my friend. Those fuel pressure regulators are pretty cheap. They should be considering they are nothing more then a valve with a spring in it.
lost my rear view mirror over a bump today.................Somedays you just can't win.
I did replace the stator, what a pain in the ass that was pressing the gear back on. Whew, anyway the stator is replaced.
Bigdog, one step ahead of you, I got a bbk adj regulator with gauge, new injectors, corbra intake and fuel rail on the way. That should at least let me know if its a fuel delivery problem. Wasnt so easy convincing the wife though, whew that was a tough one. I do have a check engine light and I am going to get it checked this weekend. My brother has one of the code readers that he is letting me borrow but he doesnt know that yet. I will post what I find out.
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
I did replace my stator and it was exactly what was causing my trouble. I spent about a thousand dollars and it was a $35 part I needed. Alex is having a separte issue from what I can tell. He has repalced his stator also and I don't think it helped him.
alex let me know what the codes are and i can help you find out whats
causing your check engine light (cel) to come on. that may be your whole problem what ever is causing the light to come on if the car cuts off like you said while driving and is hard to start after it gets hot, its either the fuel pump, ignition module, or stator. but if the cel is on that will help out a lot on fixing the problem when you tell me the codes. also could be a bad ground causing this concern.
It doesnt cut out running down the road, only after I shut it off it wont start. It starts then dies a second later. If I get it going it doesnt die.
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2004 Yamaha R1, stock, sort of
1995 Gt 5.0 5 Spd, pretty much bone stock
1991 Dodge Diesel, mods go on and on.....
1988 Honda Hurricane 600F1, mods go on and on.....
1968 Harley XL1000, mods go on and on.......
1950 Chevy Pickup 5 Window, work in progress, Twin Turbo SBC to come..
1941 Chevy Pickup, stock
Wow, what a great thread!! This is like de ja vu all over again! I had this same problem when i first bought my 95 5.0. I drove it all the way home, drove it at night..the next day it just stalled out. Had to sit and wait like 10 minutes, then did it again. Let it sit, then drove it home. My mechanic replaced the TFI?? module but said it didnt do anything wrong for him. So i got it back, didnt do it for the longest time and out of the blue, it did it again. Let it sit all winter long, the next year it did it once getting off an exit on the freeway. Let it sit for like 10 minutes and it was fine. Been a year and hasnt done it yet. I should note though that i average like 1000 miles a year only just because im afraid it will die on me, that and it only has 49000 miles on it (not bad for a 95). Anyway, i might have to try this strator thing. I have posted on every mustang/ford site i could find (around 2 years ago) and have never heard of this before. I have been told its anything from MAF to ICM to FUEL PUMP to CCRM. I just said screw this, i couldnt stand dumping cash into the car when i didnt even know what was wrong. Even though it hasnt done it in a year, it doesnt get drove that much either, so im sure it will do it again. I know it only did it when it was hot out though.... Thanks for the help guys!!
the Stator was it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
tastang95gt 
