This is my first time posting but I really need some help. I have a 95 Mustang GT convt. A couple months ago it started running rough and there was a lot of vibration from the engine.
I waiting for a warm day and put in new cap, rotor, plugs, and air cleaner. The rough running persisted. I checked the timing after pulling the in line spout connector and it was no where near the timing mark and there was no way to get it close to it. Since then I have replaced the distributor, starter, motor mounts, MAF (used), coil, exhaust.
When I first installed the MAF it performed much better but there was some vibration still. When I got the exhaust put on, it ran better than when I got it.
Over the course of the past couple months, it goes from running horrible for a week or two to running perfect. When its running perfect, I notice the timing is where it should be and when its running shitty, its wayy off. Does the computer adjust the timing even with the connector pulled?
Possibly a bad ground, loose connection? Could it all be related to having the batterty disconnected (while working on it) and resetting the computer causing it to run perfect for a while?
I have been researching this and it seems it could be an injector sticking or the computer going bad. How can I know for sure?
Ok, let me run this by you guys. I have just read about a harmonic balancer interia ring problem. Could this have in fact slipped causing my timing marks to read as being off and cause the shaking. Then it eventually makes it back around to being normal again? How hard of a fix is this?
It could be your harmonic balancer. I would make sure that all of your electrical connections are good first. Start up the car. While it is idling start wiggling all the electrical harnesses you can get your hands on especially the spout connector and ignition control module on the passenger side fender. I have seen those fail intermittently on other vehicles and cause all kinds of strange problems.
How many miles on your oxygen sensors? If your car has a lot 100K+ on it, I would replace the O2's.
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1995 Laser Red GT
Kenne Bell Blowzilla (8lbs), GT 40 lower intake, AFR165 heads, Cobra 1.7 rr's, Pro-M 80mm, AFM Power Pipe, CUSTOM TUNE (SCT), 42lb injectors, FRPP pulleys, 70mm throttle body, FRPP 1 5/8" shorties, Bassani cat-x, Bassani after cat, Steeda Tri-ax, Ford 3.55's
Full street oriented Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, uppers/lowers, subframes, diff. cover, Bullitt brakes 13"/11.65", C/C plates, bump steer kit, ......
02 sensors have maybe 10k on them. Replaced them last summer.
I dont know how the timing marks could be reading so off and the engine still be running unless the balancer is messed up. Instead of being up by the point the marks show up only from underneath the car.
Has anyone replaced this? Will I have to pull the radiator to do the swap? Step by step instructions would be nice.
I was reading the instructions on Summitracing website about the harmonic balancer. Type damper or balancer and look for a part that fits your engine. Then read under that part the instructions. I know the balancer is made of two pulleys bonded together by a rubber gasket. With the time the rubber dries and the two pullies spin on each other, then the timing reading is all messed up. I have a question for you, what kind of plugs and how much gapping do you have on them? A very simple thing that we often dont check closely enough!
Hmmm I don't recall what the gap is I set them to. Im using Autolite platinums.
What a pain getting the bolt off the damper. I had to use a big pipewrench in order to keep the motor from turning over. I haven't gotten the puller in there yet to yank it out. I could see the rubber peice crawling out the back and I can feel play by wiggling the outer pulley with my hand.
Before damaging something you should stop trying to remove that damper wheel with your pipe right now! Get yourself the special puller in order to remove that balancer, i believe you can rent it for a day ''no charge'' at your local autoparts shop. It is going to make your life 100% easier, trust me! The tool will allow you to pull the balancer out of your engine without having to block its rotation.
Well i got it out and the new one in. I have a picture with how far off my balancer had slipped. Now it runs really smooth.
Canadian, I dont think you fully understood what I was using the pipewrench for. I wasn't using it instead of a puller, as I noted that I would be using the puller to finish the job in my last posting. The pipewrench was used to imbobilize the balancer while the bolt was removed only. Perhaps you've never pulled a harmonic balancer before and therefore are not aware that it is in fact a moving a part. In order to get the bolt off you need to keep it from spinning.
I'll have to remember this problem solution. Glad to hear it worked out for you. Replacing a damper is a lot easier than chasing an electrical gremlin.
__________________
1995 Laser Red GT
Kenne Bell Blowzilla (8lbs), GT 40 lower intake, AFR165 heads, Cobra 1.7 rr's, Pro-M 80mm, AFM Power Pipe, CUSTOM TUNE (SCT), 42lb injectors, FRPP pulleys, 70mm throttle body, FRPP 1 5/8" shorties, Bassani cat-x, Bassani after cat, Steeda Tri-ax, Ford 3.55's
Full street oriented Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, uppers/lowers, subframes, diff. cover, Bullitt brakes 13"/11.65", C/C plates, bump steer kit, ......
This is my first time posting but I really need some help. I have a 95 Mustang GT convt. A couple months ago it started running rough and there was a lot of vibration from the engine.
I waiting for a warm day and put in new cap, rotor, plugs, and air cleaner. The rough running persisted. I checked the timing after pulling the in line spout connector and it was no where near the timing mark and there was no way to get it close to it. Since then I have replaced the distributor, starter, motor mounts, MAF (used), coil, exhaust.
When I first installed the MAF it performed much better but there was some vibration still. When I got the exhaust put on, it ran better than when I got it.
Over the course of the past couple months, it goes from running horrible for a week or two to running perfect. When its running perfect, I notice the timing is where it should be and when its running shitty, its wayy off. Does the computer adjust the timing even with the connector pulled?
Possibly a bad ground, loose connection? Could it all be related to having the batterty disconnected (while working on it) and resetting the computer causing it to run perfect for a while?
I have been researching this and it seems it could be an injector sticking or the computer going bad. How can I know for sure?
Any other hints or something I may have missed?
Thanks! Joe
I am changing the pickup coil on my 95 gt. Where is the pointer for the timing?
The picture in the Haynes manual shows a pointer but I can't find any pointer on my motor that looks like that. Thanks,
Charlie
95 GT Intermittent Rough Running Timing Issues 
