hello i have a 95 gt, it has the common bolt ons (k&n cold air, 65mm throttle body, longtube headers,underdrive pulleys, 160f t-stat, 14btdc, pypes catback, 3;55 gears, mac short throw shifter,18x10 saleen wheels in the rear, 18x9 up front).my question is i have a port matched and polished cobra intake, a set of gt40 heads also ported and polished, and i am going to run anE cam with 1.6 roller rockers, has anyone ran this combo or something close to it? and did it affect the stock ecu? this seems like a mild set up but with everything i have read about the 95 ecu i thought i would ask. thanks for any help
hello i have a 95 gt, it has the common bolt ons (k&n cold air, 65mm throttle body, longtube headers,underdrive pulleys, 160f t-stat, 14btdc, pypes catback, 3;55 gears, mac short throw shifter,18x10 saleen wheels in the rear, 18x9 up front).my question is i have a port matched and polished cobra intake, a set of gt40 heads also ported and polished, and i am going to run anE cam with 1.6 roller rockers, has anyone ran this combo or something close to it? and did it affect the stock ecu? this seems like a mild set up but with everything i have read about the 95 ecu i thought i would ask. thanks for any help
Well i've got a somewhat similar setup, the e-303 cam was my first mod haha, a looong time ago. The car is still driveable but you will have some idle issues. I dont know if you have a manual or auto. Youll have more troubles with an auto (ie: it won't idle while in gear)
But i found when i did my gears i kept hitting the rev limiter, but at the time I had already purchased a tweecer RT so it was an easy fix. If i were you i would suggest getting a custom tune or a tweecer/something similar. My room mate and i have played around with it quite a bit and i have noticed a big difference in just normal driving. I have much better throttle response, you can change the shift points/ how hard the car shifts. And of course squeezed out some extra ponies I would say if your computer inclined or know someone that is I would go with the do it yourself tuner, else find a good shop somewhere to burn you a chip. I would go the tweecer route just because if you decide to change parts later on down the road you dont have to buy another chip, and with a tweecer you're going to be able to do a lot more daily driving tuning also
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Green 95 GT Auto. Mods | K&N Cold Air | BBK 70mm Throttle Body | Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds | Ford Racing E-303 Cam | BBK Shorty Headers | Summit Offroad Pipe | B&M Shift Kit/Valve Body | Ford Racing 3.73's | Tweecer RT |
thanks for the info. i am running a 5 speed. are the idle issues bad enough to prevent me from driving the car until i can get a chip burned. theres a place over here in manassas Va who will burn a chip and dyno tune the set up for 600 bucks. i know the tweecer will allow for further mods but this being my wifes car i am going to keep it mild. i dont see anymore engine mods in the future. i think maybe clutch, flywheel, and drive shaft, along with some control arms after the engine is finished. 95's sure are a pain in the ass but that body sytle is alot more sytlish than the fox, my opinion not t o mention the interior on the 95 is alot nicer. any way thanks
IMO the e303 doesnt have near the idle problems most people seem to think. Most of the problems that I have seen seem to be caused by things not being set up correctly or by trying to use the cam on a speed density car.
160f t-stat is probably too cold. Without tweecer or a custom tune that can change the ECT table, the ECU will probably never go into closed loop.
Which shop in Manassas are you talking about? I didnt know there were any dyno/tune shops out there?
blade 10 the shop in manassas, va is called excessive motor sports. it is off of euclid ave just pass osbourn park high school. the phone number is 703-331-1422. the address is 9207 venture ct. manassas park.:thumbsup
I HAVE A 95 GTS I HAVE INSTALLED STAGE 3 CNC PORTED H/I/C WITH 42INJ WITH A CALIBRATED PROM WITH A V1 NO TUNE BUT PLAYING WITH TIMING AND FUEL PRESSURE.GRANT IT ITS NOT SMART BEING I HAVE A SC BUT IM FIGHTING ELECT PROBLEMS COMMON WITH 95 STARTS WHEN IT WANTS 2 GOOD LUCK I WOULD PUT IN ON AND TRY IT OUT
hello i have a 95 gt, it has the common bolt ons (k&n cold air, 65mm throttle body, longtube headers,underdrive pulleys, 160f t-stat, 14btdc, pypes catback, 3;55 gears, mac short throw shifter,18x10 saleen wheels in the rear, 18x9 up front).my question is i have a port matched and polished cobra intake, a set of gt40 heads also ported and polished, and i am going to run anE cam with 1.6 roller rockers, has anyone ran this combo or something close to it? and did it affect the stock ecu? this seems like a mild set up but with everything i have read about the 95 ecu i thought i would ask. thanks for any help
Your planned combo is good for about 275whp/300wtq but the idle will have a definite lope. If you want a smoother idle, go for the CompCams XE270HR-14 (LSA 114) instead of the E-303 cam (LSA 110). As an added bonus you'll get a lot more torque lower down the rpm range with only slightly less HP.
[quote=1970must;455625]hello i have a 95 gt, it has the common bolt ons (k&n cold air, 65mm throttle body, longtube headers,underdrive pulleys, 160f t-stat, 14btdc, pypes catback, 3;55 gears, mac short throw shifter,18x10 saleen wheels in the rear, 18x9 up front).my question is i have a port matched and polished cobra intake, a set of gt40 heads also ported and polished, and i am going to run anE cam with 1.6 roller rockers, has anyone ran this combo or something close to it? and did it affect the stock ecu? this seems like a mild set up but with everything i have read about the 95 ecu i thought i would ask. thanks for any help[/quote
For your situation I would definately look for a cam that works well for your computer. These are not foxes, you cannot just throw a hci combo and expect it to work. You would be money ahead to find a cam that works for that computer. Other wise you are as far as you can go with that combo without some sort of tune.
I think the idle issues have to do with the 1995 obd2 ecu . I installed a ecam in my 95 and have issues with it at idle. I also had the same cam in a 92 with absolutly no problems with the idle and a stock ecu. Both cars had the same heads and were 5 speed cars.
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1992 lx notch 347,C4,S-trim,549whp@11#
2004 Explorer limited 4.6 4x4(wifes)
yeah the 95 computers are not as "mod friendly" as the 93 and earlier fox body computers.
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95 Mustang Cobra
347 Stroker, Cobra Heads/Intake, Comp Cams Magnum 270 cam, Upper/Lower Control Arms, Subframe Connectors, Strange 10 Way Adjustable Struts/Shocks, Eibach Drag Launch Springs, MGW short throw shifter, O/R h pipe, SLP lm1 Catback, K&N big cone filter. Still running on the stock tune
hello i have a 95 gt, it has the common bolt ons (k&n cold air, 65mm throttle body, longtube headers,underdrive pulleys, 160f t-stat, 14btdc, pypes catback, 3;55 gears, mac short throw shifter,18x10 saleen wheels in the rear, 18x9 up front).my question is i have a port matched and polished cobra intake, a set of gt40 heads also ported and polished, and i am going to run anE cam with 1.6 roller rockers, has anyone ran this combo or something close to it? and did it affect the stock ecu? this seems like a mild set up but with everything i have read about the 95 ecu i thought i would ask. thanks for any help
I dont know if im too late to help, but I got a 95 cobra with almost the same set up. I had everything but a cam. Then I went ahead and went with the E-303 cam. My computer has gone all stupid with its idle since the cam. May want to try someother cam unless you know something I dont. Mine is bad enough I dont trust it, to drive.
Aand its a 5-speed, but the cobra computer is a little different. The cobra computer has a calibration to run 24# injectors with the GT MAF unit. I still havent got a direction to go, lots of options on this forum, but I dont Know that any will Fix our problem, for a fact but I havent tried them yet.
1995 Mustang GT, how far can i go with stock ecu 
I would say if your computer inclined or know someone that is I would go with the do it yourself tuner, else find a good shop somewhere to burn you a chip. I would go the tweecer route just because if you decide to change parts later on down the road you dont have to buy another chip, and with a tweecer you're going to be able to do a lot more daily driving tuning also
