[STONECOLD]

Hi all,

I was originaly planning on adding a supercharger to my car but at this point I feel that the car is getting up in age. It runs great and still pulls hard but I just cant justify the $3000 (or higher depending on model) entry price of a supercharger.

That being said Im planning on going with something that for the most part I never really cared for. Nitrous. I figure you cant beat the hp to price ratio. Id like to start with a 75 or 100 shot.

I dont know much about Nitrous though. Could those of you that have some experience with it tell me the difference between wet and dry shots? And also which kits seem to be the safest.

So far im leaning towards a ZEX kit.

Thank you for your help.

[84 predator mus]

wet systems tap into your fuel and mix that way.
dry systems tap into your intake tract like your cold air kit or a fitting in the intake somewhere.

zex is a pretty good kit, my brother-in-law put a 75 shot zex kit on my sisters 90gt and it worked very well. all he did was tap a hole in the cold air tube and it worked that way.

[STONECOLD]

Originally Posted by 84 predator mus

wet systems tap into your fuel and mix that way.
dry systems tap into your intake tract like your cold air kit or a fitting in the intake somewhere.

zex is a pretty good kit, my brother-in-law put a 75 shot zex kit on my sisters 90gt and it worked very well. all he did was tap a hole in the cold air tube and it worked that way.

Thanks for the info.

Is there an advantage to one over the other?

[84 predator mus]

the dry kit is better for a fuel injected 5.0. that way everything mixes before its in the combustion chamber.

the wet kit i think is bad on a 5.0 because it mixes in the fuel and really doesnt have a chance to mix with air before it hits the combustion chamber, which usually results in a blown or melted piston lol i've seen both.

usually most 4.6 engines go with the wet kit, that i'm still figuring out cuz i have a 94 t-bird with the 4.6 and wanting to mod it but have no clue on what to start with.

edit: i'd go with the dry system in the 75 shot, you'll enjoy it.

[STONECOLD]

Originally Posted by 84 predator mus

the dry kit is better for a fuel injected 5.0. that way everything mixes before its in the combustion chamber.

the wet kit i think is bad on a 5.0 because it mixes in the fuel and really doesnt have a chance to mix with air before it hits the combustion chamber, which usually results in a blown or melted piston lol i've seen both.

usually most 4.6 engines go with the wet kit, that i'm still figuring out cuz i have a 94 t-bird with the 4.6 and wanting to mod it but have no clue on what to start with.

edit: i'd go with the dry system in the 75 shot, you'll enjoy it.

Thanks again 84 predator, thats good info.

How does it work in general? Do you have to open the bottle and leave it that way until your ready to use it? Do the automatic openers and bottle warmers add significant cost to a basic kit? Are they necessary?

Does any one else have anything to add?

[84 predator mus]

heres the one you want http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


good thing about that kit is that its computerized so its easier to adjust it. personally i think its better than NOS brand or NX. thats just my .02

[STONECOLD]

Thats the kit I was looking at! lol

My concern is that, if you read the notes, it says "Do not use aftermarket computer chips or other devices that advance ignition timing."

I have an after market chip and tune.

[84 predator mus]

yea if you got a chip you might have to run 87 octane and retard the timing from the stock 10*btdc, id say maybe to 8* dont quote me on that but it should compensate for your chip and the octane requirements. when we did my sisters she had a chip in it when she bought it so we took the chip out and installed the zex kit and retarded the timing to 8* and it worked great. sorry i couldnt help any better lol.

[larrylass]

I just switched to the wet kit on my 95. i dont like the fact that the ecu has to trick the injectors to thinking they are bigger that they should be. A wet n2o kit is far more tunable and safer for the motor and it hits harder. I run a 125 shot at 1050 bottle pressure and have made over 100 runs no probs yet. Hyper-u-craptic pistons dont like much more N2o than that and with stock ring gaps and non forged cranks rods and the shi---y rod bolts stay within your limitations!!!!! my combo is ;
stock motorW/ cai
JMS 4 bank chip with a N2O program
lentech strip terminator AODE manual V/B w/ lockup on a 12 v switch on the steering wheel, 2800 stall 9.5 convertor,b&M ratchet shifter
4.10 gear ,moser 28 splines Jegs diff cover
Strange struts ,shocks ,sub frames,torque box reinforcement
M/T et drags 26x8.5
12.63 @107 w/ wheels 3in off the ground. Car ran 16.01 stock!!!
i just finished putting on a T/F intake,65 mm t/b, BBK shortiesw/ a BBK x pipe and the performance distributors 5.0 kit. Well see how she runs @ atco this tues nite

man with your setup i hope you have it caged because your gonna need one )
So remember this:
retard 1.5 degrees timing for every 50 hp n2o
On your motor DONT go over 125 shot but use a 125 shot!!
Regulate fuel pressure @ 42 lbs W/ vacumn line off
I put in 2-3 gallons of 103 unleaded but @ a 125 shot you are safe to use 93 octane
Use 1 range colder plug and gap the plug to 32-35
You must use SLICKS not Drag Radials or street tires!!!! Slicks are meant to wrinkle the side wall more for more traction. Definetly buy M/T drags
Good luck man your gonna LOVE N2O and you will be wonderin why in the FU-- you didnt do this in the first place and oh yea how do you like your lentech AODE?? i love mine it just is a kick ass trans. Ps i use Swepco 714 tranny fluid and after a season i changed the tranny fluid and found NO Black deposits in the pan. and make sure you place that Convertor lockup switch on your steering wheel so you can lock your convertor as soon as you go into 3rd gear. Its good for 3-4 tenths and 3-5 mph

Big lar

[larrylass]

oh yea man check these guys out www.coldfusionnitrous.com a bunch of good guys and there site has a great N2O calculator. Remember that one company makes most of the N2O solonoids "peter paul electrics" so dont go buying these high dollar brand names . just check them out Hope to see you at atco man dentmecx@comcast.net

Big lar

[5.0 Liter]

Originally Posted by STONECOLD

Hi all,

I was originaly planning on adding a supercharger to my car but at this point I feel that the car is getting up in age. It runs great and still pulls hard but I just cant justify the $3000 (or higher depending on model) entry price of a supercharger.

That being said Im planning on going with something that for the most part I never really cared for. Nitrous. I figure you cant beat the hp to price ratio. Id like to start with a 75 or 100 shot.

I dont know much about Nitrous though. Could those of you that have some experience with it tell me the difference between wet and dry shots? And also which kits seem to be the safest.

So far im leaning towards a ZEX kit.

Thank you for your help.

I was thinking the same thing. A Supercharger would be great but I dont feel that it would be practical on an older engine. I have 160,000Km on my 95 5.0. It sounds and run strong pulls hard, ect. But for the price i think that nos might be the way. What sort of up grades would i need to do so i dont blow up anything....I was also thinking of 75 or 100 shot. How much hp's will that give me?

[lotsofjuice94]

I have done everything right in installing nitrous oxide, put all new ignition system ( msd digital 6, msd distributor, msd blaster coil, high performance wires and cooler plugs) and supplied plenty of fuel (255 lph fuel pump, pressure regulator and 52/lb injectors,
JUST REMEMBER YOUR DAMN HEAD GASKETS!! LOL be careful.. think I'm going to go with a belt driven supercharger for more reliability.. you tend to brake parts and fry gaskets with the juice..

[STONECOLD]

Originally Posted by larrylass

I just switched to the wet kit on my 95. i dont like the fact that the ecu has to trick the injectors to thinking they are bigger that they should be. A wet n2o kit is far more tunable and safer for the motor and it hits harder. I run a 125 shot at 1050 bottle pressure and have made over 100 runs no probs yet. Hyper-u-craptic pistons dont like much more N2o than that and with stock ring gaps and non forged cranks rods and the shi---y rod bolts stay within your limitations!!!!! my combo is ;
stock motorW/ cai
JMS 4 bank chip with a N2O program
lentech strip terminator AODE manual V/B w/ lockup on a 12 v switch on the steering wheel, 2800 stall 9.5 convertor,b&M ratchet shifter
4.10 gear ,moser 28 splines Jegs diff cover
Strange struts ,shocks ,sub frames,torque box reinforcement
M/T et drags 26x8.5
12.63 @107 w/ wheels 3in off the ground. Car ran 16.01 stock!!!
i just finished putting on a T/F intake,65 mm t/b, BBK shortiesw/ a BBK x pipe and the performance distributors 5.0 kit. Well see how she runs @ atco this tues nite

man with your setup i hope you have it caged because your gonna need one )
So remember this:
retard 1.5 degrees timing for every 50 hp n2o
On your motor DONT go over 125 shot but use a 125 shot!!
Regulate fuel pressure @ 42 lbs W/ vacumn line off
I put in 2-3 gallons of 103 unleaded but @ a 125 shot you are safe to use 93 octane
Use 1 range colder plug and gap the plug to 32-35
You must use SLICKS not Drag Radials or street tires!!!! Slicks are meant to wrinkle the side wall more for more traction. Definetly buy M/T drags
Good luck man your gonna LOVE N2O and you will be wonderin why in the FU-- you didnt do this in the first place and oh yea how do you like your lentech AODE?? i love mine it just is a kick ass trans. Ps i use Swepco 714 tranny fluid and after a season i changed the tranny fluid and found NO Black deposits in the pan. and make sure you place that Convertor lockup switch on your steering wheel so you can lock your convertor as soon as you go into 3rd gear. Its good for 3-4 tenths and 3-5 mph

Big lar

Thanks for all the info Big lar, its appreciated. If I do go the nitrous route I wont be doing anything as aggresive as you though. My car is basically for the street.
I love the Lentech, It's good security knowing that its capable of handling much more power than what Im planning to run though it. I know I can have a little fun with the car without worrying about another Ford unit crapping out.

[JMOFLA]

i have zex its a 150 dry shot and i have ran it quite a bit no problems just tons of fun and and alot of suprised people when i pull away from them like there standing still

[Flosshogg]

Originally Posted by 84 predator mus

the dry kit is better for a fuel injected 5.0. that way everything mixes before its in the combustion chamber.

the wet kit i think is bad on a 5.0 because it mixes in the fuel and really doesnt have a chance to mix with air before it hits the combustion chamber, which usually results in a blown or melted piston lol i've seen both.

This is bad info. You are far more likely to burn a piston or get detonation with a dry shot. Both systems spray into the intake tract. Only a wet shot sprays a metered amount of fuel into the intake tract to compensate for the added amount of oxidizer, nitrous oxide in this case. Nitrous with too little fuel at high revs = KABOOOM!!!

Anything above a 75hp shot you are going to want to run wet. Nitrous is extremely cold when it gets injected and it burns very hot once ignited. The added fuel of a wet shot helps to slow the combustion process and keep it subsonic, see deflagration.

A lot of people mount the juice into the cold air tract but I think it is much better to have it behind the throttle body or better yet between the upper and lower. This way you can be positive that each cylinder is getting the same amount of nitrous and fuel.

Think of nitrous as the ultimate cold air intake.