[fastest95stang]

Well I would like to start off by saying you guys have helped me out a lot with all of the problems i have had with my many t-5's(under the user name-rebellracing454).But it is time for the t-5 to go.If anyone is wondering how to do a t-5 to tko swap hopefully this will help.Feel free to add any advice or tips along the way because i am only 18 and am far from an expert.And dont forget to tell me what you guys/girls think.Here we go...

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I will start by posting some pictures of my most recent incident with my T-5 transmission, after it rebuilt only 2 months ago:





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[fastest95stang]

Well, I guess next comes the de-installation of everything. The junk T-5 stock clutch, Flywheel, Driveshaft and the Bellhousing from the engine. After we removed the (4) bolts from the tranny that holds it to the bellhousing and the exhaust system and the (4) driveshaft-to-rearend bolts, this is what it looked like:



After we removed the bellhousing it revealed the stock pos clutch and flywheel:



After we removed the clucth with the 8 or so bolts that hold it on we took the flywheel off and I saw that the rear main seal was and has been leaking for some time:



Next when I was all done with the ''de-install'' I took a look at the release bearing and there was a whole lot of wear on one side of it:



Then i looked on the input shaft and wow what a suprise more wear.



I wonder if the wear caused by this unknown problem could of been causing my clutch pedal to feel like im trying to push down a thousand pounds. I know for a fact that this problem was not in any way caused by having an 87-93 T-5 installed onto a 94-95 Mustang bellhousing. Once again the awesome work done by calhoun automotive It sure is hard to find shops that do good work these days!

While I am waiting on my tko and all of the other stuff,I ordered to get in, I decided to put some airbags in the rear springs to help with my driveshaft rubbing issues (my car is lowered with ebiach sportlines):



I also ordered some of energy suspensions bushings for the coil springs.



After we were done with the install here is a pic of what the install looked like-



That is it for now....can't wait for all of my parts to get in (11/21/06) then i will finish the install and post the rest of my pictures for you all.If anyone knows what any of the problems may have been from...ya know besides an auto shop that only thinks they know what they are doing and the fact that my T-5 was a p.o.s. please feel free to post because i would like to know also!

I cant wait for the results, and update on the ride quality from the air bags and suspension bushings.

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[fastest95stang]

Ok, well after fracturing my elbow tripping over an extension cord that was plugged in and the flywheel that was a day late, we were back on track. First we installed the piliot bearing and the rear main seal:



Then we installed the flywheel with the new hardware. Hey guys, remember to install the engine blocking plate As you can see that in this picture, we did not and had to take the flywheel off again:



Next, we installed the Spec Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate:



We then bolted up the new bellhousing and heavy duty clutch fork and throwout bearing. We slid the tranny into place and tightened the 4 bolts holding it to the bell housing:



After we got the tranny in and all of the bolts snugged up to the proper torque specs, I installed the driveshaft spacer and my new UPR heavy duty clutch quad and cable. Now we were ready to go.



In the process I also relocated my battery to the back of the car and put a battery disconnect switch in, along with charging posts.







This is a complete list of what I used in the swap. I recieved all of the parts listed below except the spec clutch from D&D Performance. I talked to Don Walsh and he took really good care of me. Any questions I had, he had an answer. Awesome company that I look forward to doing buisiness with again. Highly recomended and shipping was super fast.

Tremec TKO 600
3 Quarts of Transmission Fluid
Flywheel
Driveshaft Spacer
31 Spline Slip Yolk
26 Spline Stage 2 Spec Clutch
Offset Tranny Mount
79-93 Mustang Bellhousing
Rear Seal
Piliot Bearing
UPR Heavy Duty Clutch Quadrant and Cable
Throwout Bearing
Heavy Duty Clutch Fork

The total cost for the swap was $2298.00. As far as shifting goes, the tranny is really notchy but in my opinion, I would much rather the notchiness over the junk T-5. I am still currently breaking both the tranny and clutch in but I am very sure most of the notchy shifting will go away after the tranny gets some miles on it. For all you who are considering this swap, let me tell you, I love this tranny. Ii is the best upgrade I ever did to my Mustang. If anyone has any questions about this swap that I can help with, feel free to ask.

.

[NaptownGT]

Cool post. Thanks for the PICs

[ScottHalliday]

Parker, thank you for posting such an awesome how to article! This will be alot of help to fellow Mustangers, me included. I am considering this exact swap for my 1989 Mustang LX coupe and this is exactly what I needed. Well Done and thanks again!

[94' cobra 351]

sweet thread. Will help when my T5 breaks.

A few questions. Is that tranny a six speed? If so how do you like the six speed? Also, it's possible to fix the rear main seal without pulling the engine?

My rear main seal was leaking and a shop quoted me $1700 to fix it because they said it would be best to pull the engine. So i said screw that I'll do it myself, and did. It was a pain trying to get that 351 out and back in. I am going to be very upset if I find out I really didn't have to pull it!

Again awesome thread.

[5.0cobra]

nice thread. i've been thinkin of the same swap.

i heard though about the tk 500. wat do you know about that kinda swap???

[rj8806]

Nice job, only thing you forgot to do was index the bellhousing. This is a necessity when installing a TKO. It requires a dial indicator to be attached to the flywheel and/or crank and performing a runout check. With the guage in place start with the needle at the 12:00 position and "zero" out the face guage. Next, roll the motor around to the 3:00, 6:00, 9:00 and back to 12:00, writing down your readings at each of those positions. Taking care and note as to whether the reading is positive(clockwise) or negative(counter-clockwise). Next, add the readings together from 12:00 and 6:00. This will be your total indicated reading(TIR). divide that number by2 and this gives you your runout. repeat this for the 3:00 and 9:00 as well. Be sure that when your guage rolls back up to the 12:00 position, it goes back to zero or something moved and you'll have to start again.
example 1. 12:00= .000, 6:00 = .010
3:00 = .007, 9:00 = .009

Your TIR in this example is .010(vertical) which means your runout is .005 vertically and horizontally the TIR is .002, runout is .001

example 2. 12:00 = .000, 6:00 = -.010
3:00 = .006, 9:00 = -.015
Your vertical TIR is -.012 and runout is -.005
horizontal TIR is -.021 and runout is -.014

Tremec specifies a total runout of no more than .005 so in example 1, you are well within specs. In example 2, the vertical plane is .005 which is in spec but the horizontal plane is .014 which is out of spec. That means you'll need a set of offset dowell pins to correct it. Offset pins come in 3 sizes... .007, .014 and .021. In my example you would use .014 offset pins to correct it. You would need to turn the offset towards the 3:00 position to bring the register hole of the bell over towards the passenger side of the car in order to center it up to the back of the crank. General rule of thumb is to move the bell towards the highest positive reading to center it up. There are always exceptions to the rule, so if in doubt, you can download a version of runout procedures from Lakewood.

Another point not brought out during fastest95stangs post is driveline angles. BEFORE you remove your existing T5, take a measurement from the center of the OUTPUT shaft up to the top of the tunnel and write that measurement down somewhere so you don't lose it. When installing the TKO, refer back to your measurement and be sure to shim the tail of the TKO back up to your original measurement. This will ensure proper driveline angles(assuming they were correct before the swap) and you won't encounter any vibrations due to the swap.
Hope this helps

Richard
Tech Support
Keisler Engineering
Tremec TKO Transmission Systems

[must-be-ford]

2298.00? that cheap. did that include the spec clutch and everything. how much was all the shipping. what is the first gear ratio. i am thinking of doing this very swap.

[rj8806]

Originally Posted by must-be-ford

2298.00? that cheap. did that include the spec clutch and everything. how much was all the shipping. what is the first gear ratio. i am thinking of doing this very swap.

Can't tell you about D&D prices but the gear ratios are as follows:
TKO-600
1st- 2.87
2nd- 1.89
3rd- 1.28
4th- 1:1
5th .64 or .82 your choice

TKO-500
1st- 3.27
2nd- 1.98
3rd- 1.34
4th- 1:1
5th-.68
Typically we recommend the TKO-600 for guys running 3.73's or lower and the TKO-500 with rear gear ratios 3.55 or higher(numerically lower)
You can get an idea on pricing from the website in my profile or PM me and I can get you a quote.


Richard

[wadman]

nice thread. i have a 86 with a tko in it. i just bought a 95 and i want to put my motor and trany in the 95. what will i need for the 95 that is not in my 86? here is another twist to my problem the 95 was auto. thanks

[r.barn]

Originally Posted by rj8806

Nice job, only thing you forgot to do was index the bellhousing. This is a necessity when installing a TKO.

Richard
Tech Support
Keisler Engineering
Tremec TKO Transmission Systems

Good reminder. NOBODY ever seems to do this.
Then they come back,

" Hey man my TKO wont shift worth a damn at high rpm's and
has a hard time going in gear "

and 99.999% time they did not index their bellhousing.

This is a MUST for ANY trans swap or bellhousing swap.


btw: McLeod bell's seem to require much less indexing headaches
than Lakewoods.

[NOSty Pony]

this is some good info. i will be ordering my new TKO next weekend.

[95gts silver/bl]

ya i agree about the t-5 not being that strong.i am 40 years old and my t-5 is holding up ok but back in 89 when i was younger man ford replaced 5 trans(thanks compucar)and gave me a rental from houstontx back to new orleans and back but now that im 2 old 2 pull that hard on the shifter and let off gas just a little i have 3 times the power and still on the t-5 with upgrades.so my point is i dont think there junk just sesitive lol good post thanks im shure i will need it nothing last 4-ever

[TravisCadello]

t-5's are great!