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1994-1995 5.0 Mustang SN95 Tech Forum

5.0L Talk | 5.0L Tech | 94-95 Tech | 1979-1993   1994   1995   Upload Pictures | Timeslips | Power Adders | Mustang Tech 


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Unread 12-31-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Question 1994 Mustang GT Performance Bolt-ons! What HP and 1/4 mile times can I expect?

I live in Australia and have done the following to my car Steeda upper and lower control arms, Steeda camber plares, Tokico D-spec's, Steeda light weight springs, Spring isolators, Front Cobra control arms, X2 ball joints,offset bushings,6 piston Wilwood brakes, 4.10 diff ratios and FPR clutch packs. I have just had a custom long ceramic coated equal length headers made with 2.5" X-pipe no cats and flowmasters - what a difference. My engine is stock and these mods are about to happen what difference will I notice and what sort of RWHP should I be making at the dyno - also what 1/4 mile times should I expect.
C&L 76mm Maf and elbow with K&N CAI, BBK 70mm throttle body, Meziere electric water pump, underdrive pulleys, 200 AMP Alternator, MSD ignition, MSD rotor and cap, 9mm wires, pulling smog gear, Capa flash tune and dyno. Gearbox is AODE having rebuilt with performance parts -2500 F60 lock up convertor, carbon bands, mech diode,hardened shaft, Fairbanks shift kit etc, etc.
Also having Addco front and rear sway bars and MMS panhard bar installed.
Have I gone too big on the TB? and other suggestions??
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Unread 12-31-2006   #2 (permalink)
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hey no no I have 70mm throttle body. I want 75mm. but the thing to watch for with a 94 or 95 5.0 is the injector size and maf size. stock are 19lb. but if you go bigger you will need to have a dyno tune and chip. or get a ecu programmer like tweecer. If not your car will stall or not have a lot of power
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95/5.0 Long tube headers, xpipe, flowmasters, with dumps, 9mm plugg wires, msd cap and rotor, 70mm tb, trick flow intake manifold, under drive pullys, smog elim kit. summit coil, subframe connectors, summit double roller timing chain, and a cam not sure what for cam bc it was in the car when i purchesed it!




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Unread 12-31-2006   #3 (permalink)
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I have gone for a better electric pump and 200 AMP alternator to take up the slack from the underdrive pulleys, also I believe the electric pump will increse RWHP as there is no drain on the crank. Is this correct? I am having a CAPA flash tune and Dyno. With all these mods what kind of RWHP should I expect?
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Unread 01-02-2007   #4 (permalink)
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I made 276 rwhp in my 95 gt with these mods. Heads, intake, maf, tb, pullies, h-pipe, flowmasters, shorty headers. Sooo...without the heads on your car..which will hurt. I say 240 rwhp. I run a 65mm tb, and see wll over 450 rwhp with an s-trim..I think everyone goes too big on those..just my opinion. Yes I still run the stock cam, another thing that I think too many people replace. I see stock ford cams seeing well over 500 rwhp with little affect on performance. Anyway, let me know if you have any questions, pm me if you would like. I grew up in Melbourne..so welcome to the site.

P.S. 13.019@106 with a 5 speed and slicks and skinnines with above mods.
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Unread 01-02-2007   #5 (permalink)
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So without heads and intake I wont make mid 13's with my setup? My gearbox is being rebuilt this Friday and should be a neck snappa. I'm bypassing aircond, yanking smog gear, underdrive pulleys, electric water pump - this should give me more rwhp? I'm concerned about the pulleys - the w/pump lows 55 gallons p/min which should keep temps down and will set idle to 900, I'm also installing a 200amp alt to help charge - Am I on the right track??
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Unread 01-03-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Every car is different mate, just have to run it to find out. I mean bypassing belts is great, also pulling the front sway bar, rear spare and jack, wipers and antenna. I have found a few tenths doing all this. In our cars I find the heads to be very restrictive. Have I seen an aod relatively stock GT run mid 13's..yes. Are you running drag radials or slicks..those greatly improve your 60 foot, how is track prep downunder, what is the sea level, air temp. All those things are relative to your 1/4 mile. I know, in my car, and I have been doing this a long time, that I power shifted and ran slicks and skinnies on a road track suspension setup. Could have I gotten the car into the 12's..hell yeah. Remove the rear seat, bypass the a/c pulley, take of the sway bar..bam I am in buisness. It's all in what you feel makes a car. I am old school, I drive my car to the track, a/c on, and race. The only thing I take off is the spare, wipers and antenna, and I run those numbers. Enough rambling, I think your altenator will be fine with the underdrive pullies. I only noticed problems with my big amp, a/c and headlights on at a light (tossed the amp). Then you needed to give it some gas so they would not die. I would not invest in a new alt, save your money for heads and rockers..trust me.:hihi: Man, think I need more coffee this am. lol
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Unread 01-04-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks Julien for your advice, I have to ask "Whats up your nose" :hihi:, Took me ages to work out what your picture was - The mind it plays tricks. I'm using Federal 595RS-there a street legal competition tire with the characteristics of slicks. 8mm tread instead of 5mm like most comp tires and very sticky-These should do the job.
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Unread 01-13-2007   #8 (permalink)
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i think maybe if you have some drag radials and a good 60's ft times will do high 13's
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