does anybody know where the fuel pump relay is ? my car doesnt want to start at all and its not the battery, alternator, etc. I know its either the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay, theres this little thing that u push to check if the fuel is going through the fuel lines to the engine, right where the fuel lines end and theres no fuel coming at all. any pics would be very very appreciated.
open the trunk,to the left-in the corner there is a hole in the liner (?) panel..reach in and there is a reset button on the top of the 'inertia switch'-that's the only reset I know of
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"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!
"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know
The red button in the trunk is the reset if the inertia switch has been tripped due to an impact of some form. The fuel pump relay is part if the constant control relay module (CCRM) mounted on the core support. The pump should run for about three seconds then shut off when you first turn the key on. When the PCM sees a crank signal it turns the pump back on. Make sure your crank position sensor is putting out a signal to the PCM. Here is the wiring schematic of the CCRM. Good luck.
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95 GT Coupe, FRP B spring kit, Bullitt Wheels, Hurst short throw shifter, SVO Cobra Intake, X303 Aluminum Heads, Cobra Roller Rockers 1.7, Equal Length Ceramic Headers, BBK H Pipe, FRP Low Restriction Exhaust, Bullitt Calipers and 13" rotors. American Racing CAI.
The PCM and the ECU are basicly the same thing. The PCM is located behind the passenger side kick panel. The crank signal comes from the pickup coil in the distributor. Did you check all the fuses in the fuse panel? No spark and no fuel sounds like you lost a power feed somewhere. It still could be the CCRM since the EEC (electronic engine control) relay is part of it also. Sounds like you need a shop manual to follow for the diagnosis. Check your local library. Many carry shop manuals that can be used to this type of repair.
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95 GT Coupe, FRP B spring kit, Bullitt Wheels, Hurst short throw shifter, SVO Cobra Intake, X303 Aluminum Heads, Cobra Roller Rockers 1.7, Equal Length Ceramic Headers, BBK H Pipe, FRP Low Restriction Exhaust, Bullitt Calipers and 13" rotors. American Racing CAI.
Adriano,I don't mean to sound like I'm about to come across..But looking at your "history" on here--I've responded to a few of your questions--I think you need to invest in a Chilton's or Hayne's manual for your car..it will answer most of the questions you ask.I have both and I sort of use this as a "double check" of my opinions based on what I get from them.Sometimes they don't get you what you need..but most of the time you can at least form an opinion based on them,and then go from there.Sometimes they don't give you enough to form an opinion,and in that case I have asked the same question over and over in different ways (my vibration problem)
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"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!
"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know