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Old 06-10-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1995 Mustang GT 5.0 Runs hot. "M"-"A"

Hello, The car is a 95 Mustang GT 5.0 automatic. Basicly stock. I just got the car. It runs on "R"-"M" cruising at 70mph when its 65-75 outside. If you load it, it will climb to the "A". I just replaced the sending unit for the gauge, thermostat with a 180, & did a coolant flush. I jacked the left front up & let it run with a radiator funnel on it for several thermostat cycles. Held it a 1700rpm for a few min. The gauge doesnt bounce around like it has a bubble in the system. It has never spit water out or steamed. The fan doesnt kick on until the gauge reaches "M". I believe the car should run some where around the "O" and not move much from there. I dont understand how it can have this much range. I'm going to take the car across the southwest this summer & dont really like it reading this hot on a cool day. Any ideas? Thanks
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Old 06-10-2007   #2 (permalink)
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It could be the water pump. And I think there's a kit to have the fan turn on at 180 degree rather than the factory setting. Is the fan operating properly?
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Old 06-10-2007   #3 (permalink)
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The fan seems to be wroking as it should. It kicks on at "M". I dont know if thats just the high kicking on & maybe theres a low speed that is not working. I've seen water pump fins be worn before & therefore not pushing as much water. Just seems like a long shot & didnt know if i was to that point yet.
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Old 06-10-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortstuff121 View Post
Hello, The car is a 95 Mustang GT 5.0 automatic. Basicly stock. I just got the car. It runs on "R"-"M" cruising at 70mph when its 65-75 outside. If you load it, it will climb to the "A". I just replaced the sending unit for the gauge, thermostat with a 180, & did a coolant flush. I jacked the left front up & let it run with a radiator funnel on it for several thermostat cycles. Held it a 1700rpm for a few min. The gauge doesnt bounce around like it has a bubble in the system. It has never spit water out or steamed. The fan doesnt kick on until the gauge reaches "M". I believe the car should run some where around the "O" and not move much from there. I dont understand how it can have this much range. I'm going to take the car across the southwest this summer & dont really like it reading this hot on a cool day. Any ideas? Thanks
my car does the same thing when i'm cruising it's at the "o" to "r" but when i nail it it climbs to it climbs to the "a". when i back of the throttle it quickly goes down to "o". i believe this to be normal because if you think about it your reving the motor up to 5900 rpm's it just gets hot. if it doesn't come down after loading up on it i'd be a little more concerned
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Old 06-10-2007   #5 (permalink)
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It will climb to the "A" just going up a hill on the highway at 2100rpm & it doesnt ever run on the "O" always "R"+. Seems like a have an issue of some sort. It doesnt ever spike past the "A" but it shouldn't stay around the "M" on a cool day under cruising conidtions.
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Old 06-10-2007   #6 (permalink)
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stock guages dont tell that much only N-L on the guage, i woul dhook up a aftermarket one and see if the tempature is really changing
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Old 06-11-2007   #7 (permalink)
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I'll pick up a temp gauge & see what its doing
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Old 06-12-2007   #8 (permalink)
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So the I put the aftermarket mechanical gauge in. It runs around 180 for the first few cycles but after a few accelerations it runs at 200 & takes a good while cruising at 60 to drop back to 195. At idle the fan kicks on at 210 & off at 205. I'm assuming that my 180 stat is just staying open. Which I believe is just hurting me. Seems like the 195 would give the water more time to cool & be better over the long run on hot days. Is this correct thinking? What temp is "overheating"? 220-225?
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Old 06-12-2007   #9 (permalink)
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the 195 will just open later and close earlier, then the coolant will get hotter quicker, check to see if the plastic air dam is still in front of your radiator, i wouldnt run it over 220degres, but with iron heads its prob about230degres, i wouldnt run it over 220 because you could warp a head
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Old 06-12-2007   #10 (permalink)
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The only plastic I see is on top of the radiator with all the stickers on it. The main grille opening & the lower opening are clear & then the condenser then radiator.
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Old 06-12-2007   #11 (permalink)
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A week after I bought my 95 GT, I received a letter from Ford of Ocala saying there was a recall on the relay to the fan switch. When I got the car back, theres a new relay on the fan shroud/shrawd/shraud.. fan cover. you got the recall yet. they will do it for free.
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Old 06-14-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Try drilling a 1/8 hole in the top of your thermostat to let a little more water through. Just remember it says N-O-R-M-A-L....until its into the red don't sweat it to much. It doesn't sound like a bubble in the system to me. Your fans are set to come on at around 200-210 so when your stock thermostat would open it would let more water through to get cooled off by the fans. One of those two events are happening at different times now. Basically your fans aren't keeping up with your cooler thermostat. Your fans are fine though. Its the temp at which they come on that needs to be changed. I'd try the hole first. (all you need is a drill) If that doesn't work try an adjustable fan controller. Water pumps usually wine when they go bad.
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Old 06-14-2007   #13 (permalink)
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I called ford about the recall. Its just a circuit breaker incase the fan motor locks up.
If you run the car long enough it just runs up to 213-215 then the fan kicks on & drops back to 205 consistently. This seems little hot for the fan to just be kicking on even for factory. I found a fan controller kit that will turn it on for the 180 stat for $90 at www.mass-air.com . Any other sites or places to get fan controller kits? I figure I will get the fans to kick on sooner since that seems to be my problem & see what that does. Maybe get a bigger fan if it still runs warm.
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Old 06-14-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortstuff121 View Post
I called ford about the recall. Its just a circuit breaker incase the fan motor locks up.
If you run the car long enough it just runs up to 213-215 then the fan kicks on & drops back to 205 consistently. This seems little hot for the fan to just be kicking on even for factory. I found a fan controller kit that will turn it on for the 180 stat for $90 at www.mass-air.com . Any other sites or places to get fan controller kits? I figure I will get the fans to kick on sooner since that seems to be my problem & see what that does. Maybe get a bigger fan if it still runs warm.

you can wire in a manual switch without a lot of money involved
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/499.shtml
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Old 06-14-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link! I was reluctant to put the fan on a "on/off" switch but the way that wires it in, it keeps the factory setup as well. I will try that over the weekend.
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