Crank pulley will free up some HP. doing crank and alt pulley have lead to some cooling and charging problems. yes they do add hp im not argueing that.
Perhaps if one is using racing pullies but I never had a problem when I ran my pullies, chargin or cooling. The car never had a problem in hot Florida and Virginia summers either. Obvously one car doesn't prove much and our 94-95 GT's can be react differently from car to car but I still would recommend pullies for cheap horsepower.
Go with gears first, then a shift kit if you have an Automatic tranny.
Make yourself a cold air kit. They are cheaper ($50 includes K&N filter) and easy to make and despite what others are telling you, they do make a big difference.
Then shop around for a used Explorer intake/cobra intake ($150-250) and get a new 70mm throttle body and new fuel pressure regulator ($300).
Next, a new catback system. You can get a stainless steel Magnaflow system that you can install yourself for $400.
Then pulleys and rocker arms. Some guys have pulled high 12's with stock heads and cams if they do the right things to our 94/95's.
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
labor for a rear end swap varies from shop to shop and depends on what part of the country where you are doing it.....in Bay Area CA its like $500 for labor.....other parts of US its less than half of that
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
I performed all my signature mods myself. If you are good with basic hand tools it's not too hard.
I did my CAI kit first and it did make a difference I could feel. Then I did pullies and felt even more power. Where I felt the biggest kick in the pants was with my exhaust mods. I went with the cat-x first and then installed the flowmasters a couple of weeks later.
I had unrestricted the intake a little and then I went and unrestricted the exhaust side to complement the intake improvments.
Remeber, whatever you choose to do, it's the COMBINATION of parts working together that nets the best results.
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1995 Laser Red GT
Kenne Bell Blowzilla (8lbs), GT 40 lower intake, AFR165 heads, Cobra 1.7 rr's, Pro-M 80mm, AFM Power Pipe, CUSTOM TUNE (SCT), 42lb injectors, FRPP pulleys, 70mm throttle body, FRPP 1 5/8" shorties, Bassani cat-x, Bassani after cat, Steeda Tri-ax, Ford 3.55's
Full street oriented Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, uppers/lowers, subframes, diff. cover, Bullitt brakes 13"/11.65", C/C plates, bump steer kit, ......
ok this is what i am thinking about doing. I have a K&N, but i am thinking of getting headers and pipes but, do i want to go with Flowmasters or do i want to pay a little more and go for Borla?
Man, everyone is feeding him with all kinds of diferent things... get it striaght guys... PROVEN first mods are....
Gears-373's
Pulleys
Mass air meter
Cold air intake
o/r x or h pipe
Headers
Catback exhuast
....Now u wont be able to get these all for $600... but atleast start at the top and work down.. I have them listed in most bang for buck, starting with gears.. As far as mufflers, u will not feel any diference in power, but the improved sound will make it feel faster.. i would go with flowmaster(40 series, 2 chmabers) They are cheap, classic 5.0 sound. the real sound comes in when u get an offroad h or x pipe.. that will really get the sound u are looking for..
oh yea, almost forgot, im guessing the car u have is a 5 speed..
a shifter is somthing u should look into.. its not going to make anything faster or look better, but it will help u make positive firm shifts, when u are banging the gears... Stock shifters can eventually break the tranny, cuase they do not have positive stops, so when u bang that stock shifter into gear hard, its actually going alittle too far, becuase it has no stops... aftermarket shifters have stops, so this is prevented..
they are also usually shorter.. so the shift pattern will feel closer.. agian, allowing more frim , positive shifts.. lessing the chance of a miss.
thanks for the tips 5pointslow i didnt know that about the shifter but, i am going to get 3.55 gears and prolly will order them tonite or tomarrow. Raced tonite and reallly fealt how crap the gears really are. i mean 1st had almost no power anyways thanks everyone for the tips
1)do not change a mass air on a stock motor. period.
2)a 70 mm throttle body on a stock motor is too big. 65 if you must.
3)get the motor to breath easier in its current stage = k&n filter or whatever cold air kit.
4) exhaust - cat back
5)gears
numbers 3 - 5 do in any order you want but those are the first three mods to get you moving. gears are the biggest bang. period.
then do your pullies. then headers ( you will loose low end on a stock motor but gain high end. its your car what you want )
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-Robert
DEAD: 1994 GT (a pine tree fell on it during a windstorm...great huh)
NEW: 1995 GT Convertible, Triple Black; receiving all the goodies from the 1994 gt and some more stuff too
Well, don't expect much in first gear unless you're an automatic. My first gear pulls like a jack-rabbit, but the sucker is gone so quickly. Unless you have slicks, you won't be pulling ahead of anybody in 1st (in any car).
When you hit second, you're gonna be screaming profanity at how much @$$ you'll be hauling, and third... damm!
Originally posted by spyder 1)do not change a mass air on a stock motor. period.
2)a 70 mm throttle body on a stock motor is too big. 65 if you must.
3)get the motor to breath easier in its current stage = k&n filter or whatever cold air kit.
4) exhaust - cat back
5)gears
numbers 3 - 5 do in any order you want but those are the first three mods to get you moving. gears are the biggest bang. period.
then do your pullies. then headers ( you will loose low end on a stock motor but gain high end. its your car what you want )
I agree on all but #1. A mas air meter is a good bolt-on, especially if exhaust, pullies, air filter, etc. are being changed. Every little bit adds up.
Spyder and I are at odds on the 70mmTB. All I can say is that I have one and love it. When I made that mod, it was the only one at that time and I could definitely feel a substantial difference in power.
Unless he has actually tried one on his car, I'd say listen to those that have actually tried it.
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4