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1994-1995 5.0 Mustang SN95 Tech Forum

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Unread 10-22-2007   #1 (permalink)
EboniteStr1ker is offline Rookie

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Default 1995 Mustang GT Long Tube Headers Install Help

I have a 1995 Mustang Gt. Auto Tranny.
I want to get some longtube headers but I dont want to pay 300+ for labor. How hard are they to install with the basic tools and a weekend. Sorry if this is a repost. Im new and scanned the posts. didnt see anything.
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Unread 10-22-2007   #2 (permalink)
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They're a major pain to install. You'll have to raise the engine at least a foot, disassemble the steering shaft, and then take out the plugs, wires, starter, and then make a go at it. The wild card here is that automatic tranny, it's so huge the space will be cramped, especially on the passenger's side. You might need a mini starter and a Flaming River steering shaft so you'll have enough clearance once they're in, you don't want constant contact with the stock shaft or the starter. Long tubes are notorious for burning out full size starters.
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Unread 10-22-2007   #3 (permalink)
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I agree, longtubes are a pain on an automatic. Took me about a day and a half. The trick is to get the car HIGH up in the air to stab the headers from the bottom. I had a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked the engine up a few inches after taking it off the mounts.

Second go around on the install will much easier than the first.

You also want to get some sort of ceramic or Jet Hot coating on the headers, they throw a TON of heat when uncoated or with "HTS" coating.

Much easier to swap the headers if you have the heads off... last car I installed headers on was in the middle of a H/C/I swap so the header install was about 10 seconds per side.

If I recall, the 94/95s already have a "mini" starter. Regardless, I've run into no problems with the stock starter on MAC longtubes, it's close but not touching.

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Unread 10-22-2007   #4 (permalink)
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I just had my MAC 1-5/8" long tubes installed last week and while it wasn't a walk in the park, it wasn't too bad either. It's not a job for the home mechanic though. Get it done by professionals.
My driver's side header fitted without any problem and there's plenty of space around the steering shaft. The only thing you need to remove on that side is the dipstick tube, and reinstall it after the header's on. You'll need to "adjust" the dipstick supporting bracket to get it in the proper position.
The passenger side header can only be fitted if you remove the starter, and it's a good idea to disconnect the plug wires too. The only clearance issue here is with the starter; one header tube almost touches. I wrapped a DEI heatshield around the starter to protect it from the heat, and I also installed Taylor plug wire insulating boots to protect those too. A mini starter would solve that clearance issue once and for all but it's OK for now.
The new design MAC headers are easier to fit and don't require you to raise the engine off the mounts. You also don't need to disconnect the steering shaft either. The passenger side header should be passed down from above, while the driver's side header should be fed from below for easy installation, therefore you really need the car on a lift.
Finally, you'll need O2 sensor extension wires to complete the job.
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Unread 10-22-2007   #5 (permalink)
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So $500 for the mac longtubes and install isnt bad?
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Unread 10-22-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Wow Bullitt, you got off easier than I did. I know mine's an 88 but sheesh.

Oh yeah, with long tubes, be prepared to get the same exact brand pipes as the headers. Most makers design their parts to work with only their own.
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Unread 10-23-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Disconnect the battery, raise the car, undo the motor mounts, raise the motor up, slide in the headers, get the end bolts on either side started, lower the motor, finish install.

Seriously, it's a 2.5 hour job if you've done it a couple times, or a full afternoon if you haven't.

BTW, most clearance issues with LT's are due to crappy sagging motor mounts... While you have them undone and the engine raised is a GREAT time to replace them.

The new design MAC's may not *require* the engine to be raised, but trust me, it's quicker and easier than screwing with the steering shaft and trying to get the car high enough. Plus you're going to be replacing the mounts anyway, right?....

You don't need a pro shop to do this, if you've got basic mechanical skils and a half decent set of wrenches and sockets, it's a do it your selfer.

Save the $300 and put it towards having a set of gears installed. THAT you might want a good shop to do.
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Unread 10-23-2007   #8 (permalink)
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I have gears already. 4:10s
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Unread 10-23-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5SpeedGT View Post
BTW, most clearance issues with LT's are due to crappy sagging motor mounts... While you have them undone and the engine raised is a GREAT time to replace them.
Agree, and that's why I also had mine replaced at the same time as the header install.
Eagle, if you get MAC long tubes, you have a choice between the MAC H-pipe or the Pypes X-pipe to fit behind them. I took a different route. Since I'd already gutted the front cats on my stock H-pipe and replaced the two rear cats with straight-thru mufflers, I just had the front of the H-pipe shortened by 21" (removing the gutted front cats plus pipework on either side) to make it fit behind the LT's. After all the cutting and pasting, my H-pipe is now a custom two muffler "offroad" unit.
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Unread 10-23-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Offsubject question...How to i change from being a 4.6 member to 5.0?
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Unread 11-27-2007   #11 (permalink)
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I just installed some used Mac 1-5/8" long tubes today in my 1994 5 speed. The car has 175K so the mounts are probably collapsed a bit. Here are some notes for other guys that will take this job on some day:
  • The hardest part removing the stock headers was loosening the EGR pipe from the passenger side. A 1" wrench was too big, so use a 25MM.
  • I did not have to disassemble the stearing shaft.
  • Both factory headers came out from below w/o jacking the motor up.
  • The drivers side long-tube went into place w/o jacking up the motor. I only had to remove the dipstick tube and the cross member 'brace' (only 2 small bolts).
  • I had to jack up the motor about 1.5" to slip the passenger side long-tube into place. I just removed the transmission mount nuts and the nuts that secure the motor mounts to the sub frame.
  • It took about 5 hours of work to get the stock headers off and the long tubes into position.
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Unread 11-28-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah that EGR pipe is a PITA but I'd already taken mine off a few months ago. I found that the 1" wrench was the correct size but maybe I was lucky.
Glad your header install went as smoothly as mine. I'm sure you'll like them.
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