1995 Mustang GT has rough idle & EGR code 332. Can EGR code 332 cause my rough?

SN95GT-Torres · 01-21-2003

OK, My 95 GT has a rough Idle. Upon inspection the codes turned out to be the fuel pump code 543, HEGO code 177&176 & EGR code 332.

I was able to kill all of the codes by replacing the fuel pump with the exception of the EGR code 332. The smog pump is removed since offroad exaust was installed.

Can the EGR code 332 cause a rough Idle?
Do I just replace the EGR valve to solve the problem?
Should I have plugged the line that came off the smog pump (I plugged it!) ?

Mods: Offroad Exaust, bumped timing, MAF screen and air cleaner baffle removed, CLEANED MAF & IAC valve.

NoSlow5oh · 01-22-2003

The EGR can make the car run like crap. Not enough EGR flow will cause the combustion temps to get to high and cause detonation, and too much flow will cause missing, rough idle, or won't even idle. I pulled that code too and right before I replaced it I decided to check my vaccume hose running to it and found out it was pinched. I paid a dollar for a little fix and no more code.

SN95GT-Torres · 01-23-2003

Very nice, Man those EGR valves are EXPENSIVE!! I can see putting the $$ to better use - like on performance parts!!

Thanks NoSlow!

NoSlow5oh · 01-23-2003

Yep, I took that money and bought the MSD coil, some new wires and plugs!

SN95GT-Torres · 01-23-2003

I thought I had this thing licked but have yet again come up short! I checked the vacuum lines and could not find a loose or kinked connection. I hooked up a vacuum pump to the EGR valve and it seemed to work fine, SO now the biq question. Do I replace the electrical component of the EGR system?

NoSlow5oh · 01-24-2003

First you need to check to see if the vacuum regulator is working properly. Unhook the harness going to the vacuum regulator. Turn the key on, and check for voltage by probing the terminals on the harness. Voltage should be present. Next use an ohm meter and check the resistance of the vacuum regulator. It should be between 30 and 70 ohms.

SN95GT-Torres · 01-26-2003

All Right Sports fans NO MORE ENGINE LIGHT!

I followed the vacuum lines under to the junction or source under the right front fender. In order to do this I had to remove the fender inner wall to check the vacuum lines. The problem was in the junction or the 3 hose connector that was located directly under the Air Intake Tube. Before tracing back to the source I could only check one connection at a time, after starting from the source the problem was in the 3 HOSE UNION! I put some clear silicon on each of the connections, let it dry and drove the car. NO MORE ENGINE LIGHT!
THANKS NOSLOW I appreciate your help! Flowmaster Cat Back System on the way!

J_Cornell · 02-04-2003

I have been having some problems with my car, intermitten*sp* check engine light, hesitation at constant throttle, and rough idle. I went and had the codes run, but nothing was stored. No I hadn't reset the computer prior to getting the codes run. Any Ideas.

SN95GT-Torres · 02-04-2003

You know I have been out of this for a while and am a little rusty so hear me out. 1st check all vacuum lines, make sure they seal and seal well!! These cars seem to like a tight seal on vacuum. Check your vent line that goes from the oil fill cap to the air inlet on the intake. Seems like this hose was very loose on my car so I replaced the hose for a tight seal on the intake. The second thing to do is check all your spark plugs forseveral things, correct gap, no deposits and MOST IMPORTANTLY check the ceramic and make sure there are NO cracks! I chased a problem on my last ride (buick GN) and was embarrassed to find that the entire problem was a broken spark plug!! Take two of those and call me in the morning! Joking, let me know what happens!! ALSO CLEAN YOUR MAF SENSOR!! CHECK SOME OTHER THREADS, GOOD RECCOMENDATIONS ON THIS WEBSITE!

J_Cornell · 02-05-2003

All I have to do that you mentioned is run down the vacuum lines. Have cleaned the MAF, T/B, changed Plugs and wires. I will just start throwing parts at it.

NoSlow5oh · 02-05-2003

J_Cornell, when the check engine light comes on, that means that the computer has found a problem. Yes the computer stores codes for you to retrieve them, but NOT ALL of them are stored. There are many tests that must be performed to extract all of the codes on a car. I don't know what year your mustang is, but I know that on all of the EFI 5.0s you can run these tests at home using an anolog voltmeter. I would suggest picking up a cheap Haynes manual at your local auto parts store and following the procedures for the tests. If you don't have an anolog voltmeter, they're only 5 bucks at walmart. Total spent- 20 bucks. And believe me, I have fixed alot of little things cheap using those two parts.

J_Cornell · 02-08-2003

I will invest in a volt meter. I have the Haynes Manual, just not the volt meter. Car is a 95 BTW.

94stang · 02-08-2003

you dont need a voltmeter. You can just use a small piece of wire to jumper the correct terminals on the diagnostic connector. The check engine light flashes the codes. I believe the Haynes manuel explains how to do this.

SN95GT-Torres · 02-09-2003

I purchased a simple code reader from O-Rieleys for $39.00, works great!

95 Green stang · 09-12-2007

Ive to replace my tps twice. Other than my distibuter going bad the tps and distributer are the only problems I had with my sn95