[Ian1994 3.8L V6]

does anyone know the depth of the spare tire well in a 1994 mustang? and what is the diamiter? has anyone else ever put 2 15" subwoofers in the trunk of there mustang? and what is the ideal Power wire and wires needed to run two amps? they are at (sony explode 600W 4 channel amp(65watts / channel) walmart's finest)) and a rockford fosgate 550S (550watts?)2 channel. currently i have two 10" 1000 watt square subwoofers in the porcesses of being reclaimed and replaced ( thanks alot UPS) but im going to mount them there DVC, i also have 2 15" Powerbase 15" subs ( 300W rms 400W max), and last but not least a little "beat Box" i made with two cheapy 6.5" insignia (best buy brand) (60 watt RMS 120watt Max) in a 1 Cubic ft. square box (not divided, 2 connectors on box), i might sellthe one or both of the 15's any tips on wireing this all up and placement of all this?


pardon the mass jumble of information but im just looking for some feedback and i know people will want specifics.

Ps in building .75 cubic ft. boxes for the two 1000 watt square subwoofers. should i port them or leave them sealed, or put a peice of plexyglass like a bandpass style? and how thick should it be?

[ESG-642T]

What subs are you getting?


I've seen 15s in a mustang, and I've seen 1 in the wheel well.

[Storkdork]

Ok... here we go. First of all, I've read the other threads you posted, and please don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you have absolutely no experience in car audio. I will help you as much as I can.
Lets start with you question about power wires. With what you said you have in amplifiers, I would go with NO LESS than a 4 gauge power wire from the battery to wherever you want put the amps. Probably in the trunk. If the budget allows, I would really recommend going with a 0 gauge wire if its going to be long. I would then hook this wire to a power capacitor which will take the strain off the battery when a strong bass note hits and the amp needs alot of power to push your subs. Investing in a capacitor now beats having a new battery and alternator installed later. From the capacitor I would go to a distribution block which will split the power wire down to two smaller power wires, no smaller than 8 gauge, one wire per amp. You could get away with a 10 gauge for the Sony amp but I would go 8 gauge for the 550s. The ground should be done the same way. Whatever you are using for power wire, use the same for ground. NEVER skimp on the ground! You should make it as short as possible also. I usually like to use the rear seatbelt bolts for this. You will find them under the rear seat. Run a 4 or 0 gauge to the capacitor. 18 inches or less is ideal for length of the ground but you will be fine going a little longer if needed, but don't go any longer than 36 inches! From the capacitor do the same thing as the power wires. Use a seperate distribution block to split the ground for each amp. You still need to turn the amps on. I really hope you are using an aftermarket deck. If so, the "amp turn on" wire will have enough juice to turn both amps on. If any other components are to be added like electronic crossovers,EQ's, or anything that need to be turned on with the stereo, then relays will come in to play, but with just the two amps, you will be fine. Now before we go any further, I forgot to mention the fuse you will need within 18 inches of the battery. You're going to need a good size fuse block to hold AT LEAST a 60 amp fuse. This goes under the hood close to the battery. This is for the protection of your car, not the amps.
Now lets move on to getting the sound from your deck to the amps. There are MANY ways to do this right and even more ways to do it wrong. I really need to know what kid of deck you have, if it has RCA outputs, if so, how many? Does it have a seperate sub output with a crossover? Do your amps have seperate inputs AND outputs? These are things we need to know before running any signal wires. They need to be ran on the opposite side of the car than the power wires. I need to get this info before we move on. Also, you might want to decide which subs you are going to use. Personally, I would go with the 15s in a sealed enclosure mounted under the rear deck, up against the back seats, and firing toward the rear of the car. But it sounds like you have some options, so let me know. Take some things into consideration, What kind of music do you listen to? How much trunk do you want? Is weight a factor? Does your budget allow for some fiberglass work in the sparetire well? Stuff like that.
I've been doing for 16 years and squeezed 6 JL 10s in the trunk of a 94 Cobra, so what you have will be a cake walk for someone with experience. I also want to steer you in the right direction and have it done right the first time. Don't be afraid to seek out local car audio shops and ask questions, or see their work first hand. Most installers have photo albums of their work.

[Liftedbronco]

15's in a ported enclosure arent gonna sound good in my opinion. Also .75 cu ft is small as it is and generally ported enclosures need to be larger than sealed ones. id stay with sealed.

[Ian1994 3.8L V6]

oh well i have the fuse wpprox. 18" from the battery, from the battery tothfuse it's 4ga. from the fuse to the trunk its 8ga. i have the remote wire, and RCA wires oposite of the battery wire. i have a FL,BL,FR,BR, RCA configuration on my deck. the Deck i got from Best Buy on black friday it's and Insignia (the best buy brand from what i've been told) the 550S has RCA L+R inputes and L+R pass-thru(whats this mean??(pass-Thur)) it has your standard wire down L+- and R+-, HP-Full-LP Crossover switch (HIGH PASS, LOW PASS) (CAN U EXPLAIN WHAT EXACTLY THAT DOES, i have it on both amps (the sony has one for each pair of channels)) it has a crossover frequency adjustment (50-220 i beleive it says.) a left and right gain(got that) and a remote punch bass port (i don't have a remote (its the 6 pin telephone style)) and for power i have B+ and ground, and the remotes on that side too.

what size cap should i get? and its there anyway tyo actually tell the wattage thats comming out the subwoofer end of the wires? i don't even know how hard im running them. im guessing im running the one 15" at around 250. but idk. thats just judging on movment and ear but i don't think thats a factor.

i know some stuff but my main problem is i need clarifying on alot of stuff. and im not great with numbers and other stuff, like one question of mine is, what do you gain with the lower OMHs im not going to go below 2 with mine (if i can wire it in that formation) (i know that most amps are unstable below 2 ohms)

i have more questions i'll post them here as they come to mind.

[BigKevo]

Lets start with some basics: Crossovers are devices(built into decks, amps or stand alone) that separate\filter certain frequencies, this allow you to tune or remove frequencies from a signal. When speaking in audio terms often freq.'s are referred to as highs,mids,lows. Low freqs come from bass woofers, mid & high freq.'s come from smaller speakers and tweeters. Your amps have HP(high pass), FULL, and LP(low pass) crossover options. The Hp or highpass setting will stop low bass and only allow mid-high range freq.'s to pass to the connected speakers. Use the hp setting on the amp for your door speakers & tweeters to avoid sound distortion and speaker damage. Full is just that full range. LP or Low pass will stop all mid-high freq.'s and allow only low bass to pass to the connected speaker. Use the LP setting on the amp for your sub woofers. Your amp has a adjustable LP 50-220hz,lowering the settings lowers the levels of high "punch" bass that reach the speaker. It will make more sense once you hook it all up and turn the dial while listening. The pass through feature is to allow you to run RCA's to a second amp. One more thing don't downsize the wiring to your bass amp like previous post states, use 4 gauge all the way for that RF 500s. Dont downsize to 8 except for maybe your mids&highs.