Now i need to decide on an Amp !
and i cant decide..
so ima list a few that I think arent bad...but i dont know much about all this crap like channels, RMS, Ohms and junk....so help me out...
I also got a friend here whose good at all this so he'll tell me what he thinks too...
Im sure the last one is what alot of u guys are gonna say....in order to pump out more power....but yea....what u guys think if theres any other kind of amp out there that u think is beter for below $250 or so.....let me know...i listed those cause they're all in the same brand as the subs... so thanks in advanced for all the help
P.S.
dont forget these are gonna go into a 94 Ford Mustang hehehe.....Im planning on building a cutom box thatll be tilted..so yea
its very hard to get two 15's in a mustang.the momo's are good subs, but rockford fosgate's rms has came way down the past 2 years. if you want a good,clean ear busting system, get a single solo baric l7 12 in a sealed box, ebay, 150.00, and match it with a kicker zx500.1,(573 watts rms) 175.00 on ebay. with two subs, a stang leaves no cargo room. trust me, the solo baric is the way to go!!! kicker is the leading brand now with higher rms rateing than ever!!! stick with kicker, you will love it!! oh and running that kind of power a 1 fared capacitor is now a good idea....
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underdeive pullys,180 therm.griffin aluminim raditor,hypertech tuned,70mm tb,msd distribitor,msd blaster tfi coil,NEW,( msd 6al,full K&N intake,polished upper intake)denzo plugs,bbk long tubes, H pipe, 40 series flowmasters dumping at rear axle,rebuilt posi 4.11 rear, C-4 with hella shift kit, FRESH paint!(back 2 primer) 14.02@100.1,NEW best time.. one solo baric 12 hitting at over 136 dbl.!!! 1400RMS WATTS! NEW 98 5SPD FOR GAS MPG! SLOW STANG. POWERED BY BANKS, GETS 10 MILES TO A TANK
working in audio field, there is no match for the solo baric for the dollar!! even the l5 is great and cheaper, I have one solo baric l7 with a kicker zx650.1 briged @2ohms, some ppl cant handle it!! and I got most of my trunk room, I got my sub off ebay NEW with a 2 year warrenty!! just check feedback!!! crutchfield knows there stuff, but quite pricey... go to a local speaker shop, find a arouthized kicker dealer, even one ten will outhit most 15's... here are the specs on my set up, sub, dvc 4 ohm, 1500watt max, 650rms(true power) takeing it down to 2 ohms, by wireing the voice coils together known as, parallale. bring the most power out of your amp to its max..amp-kicker kx600.1, 673 watts rms.as most companys call there amp a 500watt, when its really like 125rms,RMS= the power it can run at all the time..If you want a great soundsystem that turns heads, this is 4 you!!if you could here mine, you would buy it!! you should really check it out, my amp does not even get hot after a 4 hr trip, just warm. system will prob never fail!!
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underdeive pullys,180 therm.griffin aluminim raditor,hypertech tuned,70mm tb,msd distribitor,msd blaster tfi coil,NEW,( msd 6al,full K&N intake,polished upper intake)denzo plugs,bbk long tubes, H pipe, 40 series flowmasters dumping at rear axle,rebuilt posi 4.11 rear, C-4 with hella shift kit, FRESH paint!(back 2 primer) 14.02@100.1,NEW best time.. one solo baric 12 hitting at over 136 dbl.!!! 1400RMS WATTS! NEW 98 5SPD FOR GAS MPG! SLOW STANG. POWERED BY BANKS, GETS 10 MILES TO A TANK
I dont know about kicker because I haven't heard a lot of their amps, but I can tell you about the system i've got.
First off, some basics about stereo numbers and such...
RMS Wattage: Your normal operating wattage. This is the wattage your sub will most likely be running at with normal operation, when you're not pushing the system hard. This is the wattage you need to pay attention to.
Peak Wattage: This is the wattage that your sub can handle at its maximum. Usually your sub wont hit this unless you're running the volume high and the sub is hitting very hard. This is usually the wattage that is referred to when you see a sub advertised as "1500 watts!" Peak wattage is usually 2-3 times the RMS wattage but it varies based on brand and model.
Voice-coils and Ohms: Your sub is either going to have 1 voice coil or 2. With 1 voice coil you're stuck with whatever ohms that coil is. With 2 voice coils you can wire up the 2 coils in different combinations to get a few different loads (ohms). When wired in series, loads (ohms) add up. When wired in parallel your load will be half of the amount of one of the voice coils.
For example if you buy a 4 ohm, single voice coil sub, you're stuck with a 4 ohm load. If you buy a 4 ohm, dual voice coil sub then you can wire it in series for 8 ohms or in parallel for 2 ohms.
There is some debate on whether or not there is a sound difference between 2, 4 or 8 ohms but its mostly hogwash. I've had 4 ohm systems and my current system runs at 2 ohms and they both sounded great.
I run a 12" Alpine type-R sub (07 model) with dual 4 ohm voice coils wired in parallel for a total load of 2 ohms.
It's powered by an MRP-M500 amp (also an 07 model) which pushes 300w RMS@4ohms, or in my case 500w RMS@2ohms.
The sub is rated for 500w RMS (250w per voice coil) and a 1500w peak. My amp is rated for 500w RMS and 1500w peak @ 2ohms. Remember that its better to match your amp and sub/s up as close as possible than it is to over or under power them. A sub that is amped properly will hit harder and last longer than one that is overpowered.
I paid $150 for my amp brand new off ebay, $120 for the sub which was also brand new and used an older sealed box that I had lying around. The sub itself can be so much that it gives me a headache within 15 minutes if I turn it up over 10 out of 15. I keep it at 6-8 and it blends in pretty well with the speakers.
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
Need help deciding on Amp and Subs... 
