Replacing Shaker 500 Speakers in a 2010/2011 Mustang?
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Replacing Shaker 500 Speakers in a 2010/2011 Mustang?
I am a bit of an audiophile however I do not know how to change audio equipment myself. I am awaiting my 2011 GT Premium, which as y'all know has the Shaker 500 speakers. I know that typically Ford speakers are not made that well so I am wanting to go to my audio guys and have them replace all the stock speakers, subs, and amps.
My questions are these: Has anyone on here replaced their stock speakers in their 2010's? And if so (and you had pro shop do it for you) were they able to replace the 8" subs without cutting the door panels all up?
Thanks so much for any replys.
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'66 Coupe 200 cu in | Candy Apple Red | Black Interior | Rally lights | A/C
I replaced the 5x7 stock with alpine type s 5 x 7's. I recently replaced the factory woofers with polk audio db840's (svc subs) powered by an alpine mrp-500, I have two tc710 subs in the trunk powered by an mtx8001 and my alpine 5x7's are powered by an mtx4004 - Your problem is not going to be in the speaker swap, but the headunit. The Shaker 500 headunit sux - plain and simple, I installed temporariliy an aftermarket headunit just to see if the car would sound better - it sounds amazing with an aftermarket unit all the levels are right on and you can adjust accordingly. Currently I'm using a ReQ from MTX to try to fix the levels but even that is not working very well. All I can say is rip that headunit out as fast as you can. I never had my 2010 5 days and I had two blown door speakers... LOL They truely suck...
Enjoy modding but expect a LONG project as audio wise this car is a total b!tch to work on...
The main reason doors get cut up is that you want to replace the 8" with something better that isn't the same depth or has greater excursion.
I recommend doing a little research on speakers of similar depth and excursion before talking to an audio guy. You may love the sound of Brand X's 8", but it's just not going to fit stock. Go in with your absolute musts and some ideas, but be open to options that you never thought about.
The main reason doors get cut up is that you want to replace the 8" with something better that isn't the same depth or has greater excursion.
I recommend doing a little research on speakers of similar depth and excursion before talking to an audio guy. You may love the sound of Brand X's 8", but it's just not going to fit stock. Go in with your absolute musts and some ideas, but be open to options that you never thought about.
I used some RF 8" in the doors. They are deeper than stock. But I removed the magnet covers, then used a heat gun on the inside of the chamber where the speaker sits. Using the gun, I heated the chanber up and while still hot pushed the speakers in to "mold" the shape. I did this several times and the spaeker literally fits like a glove.
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2005 GT, Flowmaster, SCT, JLT CAI, Eibach, Baer, FRPP Struts / Dampers, FRPP Deletes, FRPP 4.10's, TA Girdle, BBK UDP's, J&M Upper Link/Lower Control Arms, FRPP GT 500 Front Control Arms, Hurst short throw, Foose / BFG FDW's
LOL... Yes they do. I used a heat gun to soften up the housing and pushed them into place. The bottom of the speaker fits perfectly in the factory location.
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2005 GT, Flowmaster, SCT, JLT CAI, Eibach, Baer, FRPP Struts / Dampers, FRPP Deletes, FRPP 4.10's, TA Girdle, BBK UDP's, J&M Upper Link/Lower Control Arms, FRPP GT 500 Front Control Arms, Hurst short throw, Foose / BFG FDW's
Hi,
I replaced the front and back stock speakers in my '11 vert. The change of the back speakers wasn't difficult, but also didn't provide a huge improvement. I would recommend to let them stock.
The front door speaker replacement (not the subs) weren't that easy but not a huge problem. The replacement of that speakers was a huge improvment.
The stock subwoofers in the fornt doors are really special. Every speaker is a double coil speaker with low impedance (1.8 Ohm), so that the factory amplifier can be cheap. If you replace the subs you will probably need an additional amp. Also the magnet ist pretty small and has a thread that it can be screwed on the sub housing.
Hi,
I replaced the front and back stock speakers in my '11 vert. The change of the back speakers wasn't difficult, but also didn't provide a huge improvement. I would recommend to let them stock.
The front door speaker replacement (not the subs) weren't that easy but not a huge problem. The replacement of that speakers was a huge improvment.
The stock subwoofers in the fornt doors are really special. Every speaker is a double coil speaker with low impedance (1.8 Ohm), so that the factory amplifier can be cheap. If you replace the subs you will probably need an additional amp. Also the magnet ist pretty small and has a thread that it can be screwed on the sub housing.
What settings do you have the head unit on for sound? With the stock speakers, I found myself setting it to "driver's seat" with the bass at neutral and treble to about 2+. I have now changed the settings to bass 1+, treble 5+ and in the "all seats" setting. I have only replaced the 6x8s with the TS-A6874Rs so far.
Your problem is not going to be in the speaker swap, but the headunit. The Shaker 500 headunit sux - plain and simple, I installed temporariliy an aftermarket headunit just to see if the car would sound better - it sounds amazing with an aftermarket unit all the levels are right on and you can adjust accordingly.
I have to disagree. the problem is not in the head unit .... It is in the line conversion of the factory amplified signal. If you compare a crappy line-out convertor to an aftermarket Head unit, then i agree with you that the after market unit will have a better sound, however, with the right line convertor connected to the proper channels on the shaker the end result can be amazing, and with the ability to maintain my navi, phone, and sync, is well worth a couple hundred bucks to acheive.
typically in any factory system the order of inferior products is:
1) speakers
2) Amplifiers
3) Signal / head unit
and I have always replaced my systems in that order.
What settings do you have the head unit on for sound? With the stock speakers, I found myself setting it to "driver's seat" with the bass at neutral and treble to about 2+. I have now changed the settings to bass 1+, treble 5+ and in the "all seats" setting. I have only replaced the 6x8s with the TS-A6874Rs so far.
Sorry (Sorry-Sorry-Sorry) for answering that late - but i was working an 3.73 gears and so on.
I now prefer "All seats", Bass +3, Treble +4
I just found a few mitnutes tody this LINK, I Think I wiill go with that, because I have a 12" Subwoofer and a 300W-Amp left
I have to disagree. the problem is not in the head unit .... It is in the line conversion of the factory amplified signal. If you compare a crappy line-out convertor to an aftermarket Head unit, then i agree with you that the after market unit will have a better sound, however, with the right line convertor connected to the proper channels on the shaker the end result can be amazing, and with the ability to maintain my navi, phone, and sync, is well worth a couple hundred bucks to acheive.
typically in any factory system the order of inferior products is:
1) speakers
2) Amplifiers
3) Signal / head unit
and I have always replaced my systems in that order.
I'm just starting to upgrade my '11 GTs sound system, and I'm wondering about this. I do NOT want to ditch the factory SYNC nav system (and like you, I know the problem is NOT the head unit, but the line conversion), but I want to incrementally upgrade to all aftermarket speakers and amps. Do you have suggestions on aftermarket converters that will give me a GOOD preamp signal? I don't care about spending some money to make it sound good. After all, every speaker/amp will be high-end, and I'll be going for a SQ setup.
I remember reading about a product that JL Audio makes that is supposed to flatten out all the built-in factory bias, and provide a clean preamp signal. Just looked it up, it's called the CleanSweep.
Ever heard of it? I'm pretty sure that would give me a good starting point for a clean, adjustable output signal. I know JL's stuff is always top-notch, and the features sound impressive. What do you like? I'm stuck on JL for speakers and amps, but I would stray for something like this if it offers better performance.
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2011 Mustang GT - Kona Blue, 6MT, Brembos, 3.73s, Everything but auto & glass roof.
BMR Springs, K&N Drop-in, Magnaflow Street Axle-backs.
I'm just starting to upgrade my '11 GTs sound system, and I'm wondering about this. I do NOT want to ditch the factory SYNC nav system (and like you, I know the problem is NOT the head unit, but the line conversion), but I want to incrementally upgrade to all aftermarket speakers and amps. Do you have suggestions on aftermarket converters that will give me a GOOD preamp signal? I don't care about spending some money to make it sound good. After all, every speaker/amp will be high-end, and I'll be going for a SQ setup.
I remember reading about a product that JL Audio makes that is supposed to flatten out all the built-in factory bias, and provide a clean preamp signal. Just looked it up, it's called the CleanSweep.
Ever heard of it? I'm pretty sure that would give me a good starting point for a clean, adjustable output signal. I know JL's stuff is always top-notch, and the features sound impressive. What do you like? I'm stuck on JL for speakers and amps, but I would stray for something like this if it offers better performance.
I originally built my system using the CL-SSi interface, which sounded awesome, but after a month or so, it started having problems, certain chanels wouldn't turn on, and the bass signal would go through the roof. Don't know if it was just a bad unit or if it didn't like the way i had it wired ....... I ended up replacing it with a pair of AudioControl LC2i locs. One taps the sub signal from the amp in the drivers front kick panel, and the other taps the front channel speaker outputs from the amp in the trunk (this one is needed to maintain navi voice and phone. I run the rears off factory power so i didn't need to tap them, although i did with the CL-SSi. The AudioControl LC2i's work great, not quite as clean and pure as the CL-SSi, but still very high quality. This approach will work great for you to start by just adding the subwoofer and amp first, and then doing the rest down the road.
Good Luck. Oh, and i have all the wire colors somewhere if you need that for tapping the factory amps.
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2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
I originally built my system using the CL-SSi interface, which sounded awesome, but after a month or so, it started having problems, certain chanels wouldn't turn on, and the bass signal would go through the roof. Don't know if it was just a bad unit or if it didn't like the way i had it wired ....... I ended up replacing it with a pair of AudioControl LC2i locs. One taps the sub signal from the amp in the drivers front kick panel, and the other taps the front channel speaker outputs from the amp in the trunk (this one is needed to maintain navi voice and phone. I run the rears off factory power so i didn't need to tap them, although i did with the CL-SSi. The AudioControl LC2i's work great, not quite as clean and pure as the CL-SSi, but still very high quality. This approach will work great for you to start by just adding the subwoofer and amp first, and then doing the rest down the road.
Good Luck. Oh, and i have all the wire colors somewhere if you need that for tapping the factory amps.
Awesome! Thanks a lot. I asked that again in the other thread that I started. That helps a lot. I was looking at the AudioControl units on Crutchfield. They seem to be a much better option than one of the little $20 Scoshe line converters. Once I get all the components, I'll probably ask for the wiring diagram (or whatever you have). I'm sure I could hunt it all down, but it would be time consuming.
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2011 Mustang GT - Kona Blue, 6MT, Brembos, 3.73s, Everything but auto & glass roof.
BMR Springs, K&N Drop-in, Magnaflow Street Axle-backs.
Awesome! Thanks a lot. I asked that again in the other thread that I started. That helps a lot. I was looking at the AudioControl units on Crutchfield. They seem to be a much better option than one of the little $20 Scoshe line converters. Once I get all the components, I'll probably ask for the wiring diagram (or whatever you have). I'm sure I could hunt it all down, but it would be time consuming.
No doubt, a pm to me will save you hours of bs.
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2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
Replacing Shaker 500 Speakers in a 2010/2011 Mustang? 
