Here's some info for anyone interested in the sub-box and the 1" tweet's in the door.
First the tweets. They are a 1" Kenwood, not sure of the model. They were about $120.00. I used masking tape to cover the surface of the pod. Pencil show's up better and this will help protect it from tool marks. Next, I laid the template on the trim pod and marked where to cut the hole. I cut it with a hole saw in a drill. Cut it smaller than needed and then file it w/ a dremel tool to get a perfect fit. This is very important cause you don't have alot of room to screw up and you will have to glue in the housing to the trim pod (there is not enough room to use the mounting hardware provided with the tweet's). Glue in the trim ring to the pod. I used just a few drops of superglue gel to avoid run's. Now take a heat gun and heat up the trim ring and form the edges to the shape of the pod, if needed to take out any slight gaps that you may have. Test fit the pod w/out the tweet . You may need to grind down the mirror mounting bolts about a 1/4"(or flush w/ the nut was good for me).
Now for the wiring. They come with a cross-over. I mounted this to the door down around the map pocket. Tape it inplace and fit the door panel to ensure there is no interferance with the fit. Use dbl sided tape and tape it to the door then your ready to screw it down. The tape will help with any noise and vibration. You don't want it to rattle when you hit a bump. Tap into the door speaker wires, there right there use them, everyone always wants to run new wiring, why. I have 6 years as a professional installer, the factory wire is just fine. Tape the wires w/ black duct tape up to the tweeter and install the door panel and hook up the tweet. Give it a test run. Since they swivel, you need to listen to them to get the best position and make sure the doors are closed, then tape it into the best sounding position. Again, your gonna have to glue so go slow and use a little at a time. Glue the tweet to the trim ring from the BACK SIDE ONLY@!!!!~ Use a heat gun on low or a hair drier and dry the glue. Now leave the pod alone for a hour or so then come back and snap it into place. I would recomend tweeters before I replaced the door speakers and then use a good 2-way in the doors . I used Alpine's all the way around.
Now for the sub-box. You can't buy this, well, you can from me. I made this from fiberglass and a couple pieces of wood. Just some basic skills and alot of time needed here. Along with some imagination. Tape off the trunk area that you want to mold. Use foil or masking tape. Resin will not stick to it. and use lot's of drop cloth's since you will be working inside the trunk at first. Lay a base coat of resin onto the masked off area and proceed to apply wet glass on top of that. Let it set (appx 20-30 min). Now lay a second coat and do the same. Leave it for 2 hr's this time, It may shrink if you take it out to early. After that has set, remove the mold from the car and you now have a mold of the trunk area or the spare tire well if you desire. Just build up the thickness to about 3/8" . DO NOT apply any more glass to the outside of the mold, it won't fit any more. Build up the inside of the box. Now use 1/4" ply-wood to establish some "Build Point's" This will form the face when you stretch the glass cloth over the entire surface. Also use some 3/4" mdf in the area that you will mount the speaker to. Hot glue the wood in place and then screw it to the glass mold . Build up the face to the shape you want and then cut a small hole where the sub will go so you can glass all of the seams of the wood from the inside. Don't let the resin pool up any where, it will crack, and because of the rapid heat expansion, may start a fire. Lot's of sanding and a little bondo to get it nice and smooth and then your ready to cover it, or paint it if it looks nice enough. Check out selectproducts.com for all kinds of installation products. Sorry the info is a little general but it's really hard to explain with out a lot of photo's to go along with it. Check out my gallery for the finished products.
If you want the exact same thing, It will cost $350 for the box. Covered in Carbon Fiber vinyl, your choice of colors that are available, and shipped to your front door. It will hold the Punch HX2 DVC or the JL W3 lines. As long as your sub meets these spec.'s on mounting depths and air space, you can put in what ever you want. Payment up front and allow 2-3 weeks for delivery.
wchadduncan..i have a similar box in my 97 gt...there is a pic in my gallery. my question is...how did you "mount" the box in the trunk?
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
It is such a perfect fit that it just kinda sucks in there. I also made a 1/4" lip of the bottom of the face and that pushes against the carpet to help hold it in. Other than that, there's not any mounting hardware. It's been corner tested a few times, and has never moved. Your box looks really nice. Those sub's are really hard to build a box for and get it to sound good.
i know...mine is exactly .88 cubic feet...thats the correct dimensions for a 12" solobaric.
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
When the L7's first came out, I put 3 into a new quad cab Ford 3500 truck behind the seat on a Rockford 800A2. I built the box to the 12" spec's. At that time they required 1.25 cbft. They sounded like sh*t. So we had the Kicker Rep. bring a Tech down from Stillwater. After about a week we determined that the .80 to .90 cbft encloser gave us the best performance. We also discovered that although the solobarics are not designed to be ported. They do sound amazing in a 7th order w/ the 1.25 cbft of airspace. I don't remember the port dimensions. But that would be easy enough to figure out.
bgt...just click on the word "gallery" at the top of my thread...its wriiten in yellow along wih "profile"," search" etc. see it? it's right here ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
A couple of requested how to do's 
