atomic, does your gt have the mach 460 / 1000 setup or is it the regular stereo headunit?
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
im confused,atomic...you oghta $10 harness and that worked for you?was it on sale or something? i have ever heard of such a situation what kind of harness was it? just a standard radio harness?
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
im confused,atomic...you oghta $10 harness and that worked for you?was it on sale or something? i have ever heard of such a situation what kind of harness was it? just a standard radio harness?
I used the Scosche FDK10 in my Explorer with premium sound and it worked ok but the level was really too high. I should have used the pre-outs on the the aftermarket head unit. When I replace my mach 460 head unit I'm going to wire in RCA connectors for this purpose.
Got rid of my crappy mach 460 head units today. I went with a Sony CDX-F5500 since I've had good luck with Sonys and I know what to expect installation wise. Plus it has a knob for volume control. Mmmmm...knobs.... It sounds awesome compared to the Ford P.O.S. and plays MP3s to boot. I was lucky to have one of the ford dash pockets so when I jerked the ford cd player out I just popped the pocket in its place. I used the Scosche FDK10 adapter but spliced RCA plugs in for the RCA outs. Wiring to the pre-outs definitely gets the audio down to a managable level. I'd recommend just buying the Scosche FDK1 harness seen here. since it already has the RCA plugs. The only reason I used the FDK10 was I already had it. And I like to solder.
I had access to another set of Mach 460 rear amps so I installed them about a week ago. That seems to have gotten rid of the cutting out problem I had cause I have CRANKED it all week and havent had a problem. I think I damaged one or both of the amps when doing the speaker install. If you replace the speakers with Pioneers or any other aftermarket speakers, replace all the speakers at once before testing not one at a time. I'm not sure if there is an impedance difference or not, but I know I replaced the rears first and then tested and thats when I got the awful crackling noise from the front pass. side 6X8 even at low volume. After I replaced both front 6X8s, the crackling went away but thats when the audio started cutting out at high volume.
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Black '99 GT , 3.73 gear, SpeedCal, K&N filter, Bullit wheels on Goodyear Eagle ZR 245/45, QA1 k-member, Granatelli front street coil overs, Steeda 555-8200R rear springs, Tokico struts, QA1 c&c plates, D&D Motorosports subframe connectors
Anybody see any other reliable data about the impedance issue besides Flemworld.com? I've seen a few things on the net like "a guy told me they were funky speakers" but that is usually followed by "so he sold me some of his speakers that he said would work". Anybody seen a data sheet? Crutchfields.com also says that the the Pioneers I used were compatible with the Mach system.
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Black '99 GT , 3.73 gear, SpeedCal, K&N filter, Bullit wheels on Goodyear Eagle ZR 245/45, QA1 k-member, Granatelli front street coil overs, Steeda 555-8200R rear springs, Tokico struts, QA1 c&c plates, D&D Motorosports subframe connectors
My newest set of amps are now cutting out when cranked. I guess the correct term should be overheating. I'm now convinced the 4 ohm speakers are not compatible with the Mach 460 system in spite of what Crutchfield and Best Buy say.
Anybody know who sells 6X8 8 ohm speakers? I cant find them anywhere.
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Black '99 GT , 3.73 gear, SpeedCal, K&N filter, Bullit wheels on Goodyear Eagle ZR 245/45, QA1 k-member, Granatelli front street coil overs, Steeda 555-8200R rear springs, Tokico struts, QA1 c&c plates, D&D Motorosports subframe connectors
Hey guys, I just bought a 95 that had the mach 460 in it, but an aftermarket head unit was intalled. I get this buzzing noise through the speakers that seems to follow the engine through the rpm range, and I'm told that I need to bypass the amps. Does anyone know exactly what my problems is? Do I need to bypass the amps, and if so can anyone tell me how?
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
you need to fix the ground on your aftermarket receiver. pull out the radio and tighten the ground. its just a zzzzzzzzzz sound, right? its a bad ground...thats it. let us know how it goes
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
My first thought was a bad ground, but I don't know much about this stuff and when I had it looked at the guy told me it was the amps and then quoted me just over 2000 bucks to completely replace the mach sound system. Well thanks for the advice I'll try that and tell you how it goes.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
It does sound like you have a ground problem. But there may also be some faulty ignition components like a bad noise suppressor.
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Originally Posted by '95.0 stang
My first thought was a bad ground, but I don't know much about this stuff and when I had it looked at the guy told me it was the amps and then quoted me just over 2000 bucks to completely replace the mach sound system.
That's why I have trouble believing certain people. They'll totally BS you just to sell you something.
I know one thing for sure. You DO NOT have to bypass the amps when installing an aftermarket headunit in a Mach 460. Just use the head unit's pre-outs (RCA jacks). I've done it twice now and it sounds great. My problem is my speakers. When I get a little free time at work, I'm going to try to measure the load of the factory 6X8 and an aftermarket and see how they compare across a range of frequencies.
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Black '99 GT , 3.73 gear, SpeedCal, K&N filter, Bullit wheels on Goodyear Eagle ZR 245/45, QA1 k-member, Granatelli front street coil overs, Steeda 555-8200R rear springs, Tokico struts, QA1 c&c plates, D&D Motorosports subframe connectors
Ok, I messed with it today and I know for sure it has nothing to do with the amps. I'm now almost positive it's the ground because I disconnected the ground to the headunit and there was no change at all, so I think the ground wire is loose where it attaches to the chassis. Does anyone know where this is or where else I can ground it?
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
I don't know what kind of wiring job your headunit has. Crimped butt splices? Soldered lap splices? Did they use an adaptor (preferable) or cut the connectors and splice straight to the harness (yuck). More than likely, they used crimped butt splices and the ground has gotten loose within the crimp. Tug lightly on the crimp and see if the wire pops out. For that matter, check all the wires. If you decide to add a new 12 volt chassis ground wire, it should be the solid black wire. Just run it from the radio to a metal bracket inside the dash making the ground wire as short as possible. Before shorting wires to ground though, it's a good idea to make sure black is truly ground by using a test light or meter.
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Black '99 GT , 3.73 gear, SpeedCal, K&N filter, Bullit wheels on Goodyear Eagle ZR 245/45, QA1 k-member, Granatelli front street coil overs, Steeda 555-8200R rear springs, Tokico struts, QA1 c&c plates, D&D Motorosports subframe connectors
Haha, the kind of wiring job I have is ghetto. The guy bought the harness that splices into the mach wiring, but the wires are twisted together and wrapped in tape. I disconnected the ground wire there and it didn't change anything which is why I think its loose where its connected to the car...but I can't see where that is. I tried testing it by grounding the headunit to the ground wire for my subwoofer amp...but it didnt work. I'm hoping that doesn't mean I have a bigger problem.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system