in my signature i have my system listed.. im thinking of upgrading by getting rid of the 2 12's and getting a 13.5 W7 but whtn would need 2 1000/1 JL audio amps new altenator etc.. should i do it... plus the w7 weighs 52 lbs
Well, there's a couple of questions to ask yourself here. Do I like the way my 2 12s sound now? Will the JL actually weigh less?( I don't know what 12s you have, you didn't list a brand or model). Is the amplifier you have on the 12s now a Class-D amplifier or is it a two channel amp? A JL 1000/1 is a Class-D subwoofer amp with circuitry that allows it to make a tremendous amount of power with less current draw from the battery than most highpower 2 channel amps, so if you don't have a problem now, you won't with a 1000/1. Which is another thing.... Yes, the W-7 will handle an outrageous amount of power, but trust me, you will only need one 1000/1 to power that beast. Oh yeah, its ALWAYS a good idea to upgrade the electrical whenever you add a large system. The factory alternator is designed to run the components that come with the car from the factory. When you add a large system, yeah it willwork, but eventually you will kill the battery AND alternator befor their time. So ask yourself, "Do I want it to work or do I want it to PERFORM??" Same question for your engine too!! CAN'T GO WRONG WITH JL AUDIO.......EVER!!
well i beleive the amps are 2 channel i will look at the little booklets that came with it.. as for the subs all i know is they are 12" audio bahn i have a pic of them in my photo gallery but ill give you more info ont he amps tomorrow and i really appreciate your help and assistance...:thumbsup
I saw your subs in your gallery. Hard to tell without seeing the back of them. The JL sub will take up a lot less room and possibly weigh less due to the size of the box you have now. You can improve the sound a little with what you have now if you want. I would get the specs for those particular subs and go with a CUSTOM enclosure that would fit farther underneath the rear deck and give those babies room to really pump. Or, get the JL sub and amp and make sure you go with a custom built enclosure to fit underneath the rear deck or in the corner back by the taillights. It'll still take up some room but not as much as what you have now. Get the gains matched right and that W7 should hit harder than those Audiobahns, especially with a 1000/1. Not to take anything away from Audiobahn, its good stuff, but the JL equipment is better. What would I do?? Go get the JL stuff and have a GOOD installer help you out with a CUSTOM enclosure, preferably a shop that sells JL. Stay away from guys that do a lot of product bashing. They usually don't know what they're talking about. I would love to help out, but I'm up here in Ohio. Im MECP certified, competed for 8 years, and had two cars that my old shop built in Autosound and Security magazine. I've sold and used just about every big name out there. My last winning system was in a 94 Cobra that consisted of Alpine, Audio Control, Precision Power, and of course JL Audio. But Ive competed and won with Sony, Kenwood, Pioneer Premier (good stuff) Kicker, Eclipse (also very good) you name it, I've used it. I don't install professionally anymore but I can still build em. Right now I'm doing the framework for a fiberglass sub enclosure to house a Pioneer Premier SPL-2000 powered by noneother than a JL 1000/1 in my 02 GT. Sorry this is so long....
W7's are 1ohm stable, very hard to tune, and if tuned wrong will blow easilly. If you like the sound of the 12's now then you can upgrade to a 12w6v2's which will run @2ohm, and you can throw whatever you want at it and they kill hurt you....and people next to the car.
Well, first of all, the W7 is a subwoofer, and there's nothing to be "stable" about a sub. If anything needs to be "stable", it's the amplifier. Next, the W7 is a DUAL 1.5 ohm subwoofer which can be wired in one of two ways. Series, which will give you a single 3 ohm load which any class-d amp can handle easily. Parallel, which will give you a .75 ohm load which you do NOT want to do unless you want to let the smoke out of your amp. When it comes to tuning, the only thing getting tuned around here would be the enclosure, not the amp, or the sub. In Cobra's case, in the interest of saving weight and playing deep, I would go with a SEALED enclosure with about 1.7 cuft of internal airspace. No tuning required. Now if he were to go with a vented (ported) or bandpass (not with this sub) THEN tuning the vent would be required, but since he has expressed a concern with weight, these two enclosures would just be adding weight due to the sizing requirements. So with that being said, put the W7 in a nice, sealed enclosure, measured out to fit your car, have it wired in SERIES and slap it around with the 1000/1. Any questions.....
OK you just proved my point. The 1000/1 is perfect for a single 13.5W7 wired @ 3 ohms......Not only has this matchup been done a countless number of times, JL's own demo vehicles use this setup....
i was going to put 1 W7 w/ 2 1/1000 amps lol i forgot to look this weekend i promise tomorrow night i will have the info on both my amps and subs.... the box ihave in there right now is sealed... and i just bought it from tweeter to put my subs in.. my cousin told me i was losing a lot of quality sound cause it isnt ported/hasnt been fitted for my subs.. i dont know anything about systems and am again very greatful for your guys time and assistance... the only thing holding me back with the JL stuff right now is if i were to buy a W7 they are approx 630$ new... and the amp is about the same... give a take a few ..... and i would need a new altenator
i would probably buy this system near august/sept ish.... how lond do you think it would take to get a box made and installation/mounting? also im doing a rear seat delete kit.
Sorry Lee, he did say 2 1000/1's but I recommended that he only use one. When it comes to the length of time to do a proper install in your car, Cobra, it all depends on the skills of the installer and what materials he plans to use. A basic box that is up to JL specs and fits in your car correctly should easily take half a day. Now that you say you're going to get a rear seat delete kit, I would build an enclosure that would fire that puppy directly into the passenger compartment. It would have to be sealed off completely from the trunk area. You don't want any bass getting back in the trunk or it will sound like crap. When this type of install is done correctly, it will push your skull through the windshield. I did this to a 99 with two Alpine Type S 10's with a Sony 400 watt class-d amp. and it sounded awesome, not too over powering but it beat a guy with two Kenwood 12's and a Punch 800S in a Pontiac Grand Am. Boy, was that guy pissed. Just remember, it's all in the setup! This setup will take more time due to all the sealing of the trunk that will need to be done, but its worth it. Again, it will all depend on the skill and experience of the installer. Or if you want to keep it basic but good, a nice slot ported box snugly fit up under the rear deck and firing back toward the taillights will do nicely.
I agree I did the install on my car and with the jl 10's with the 500/1 and 350/4 powering everything through a clarion equalizer...its sounds pretty damn loud for some 10's. Of course I did get the JL audio wiring kit with a 1.2 farad cap for increased bass loads. Time, all it takes is time and planning. If you can draw out some blueprints and take measurements of your trunk area then you will save some down time from that. Be sure if you are going to do this to calculate in material thickness to all inside pieces (sides of the box) I have seen alot of people scrap boxes becuase they dont add up or look right.
upgrading 
