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Old 11-07-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow WORTH upgrading headunit and NOT the Speakers? ? ? ? anyone?

Hi Guys

I was thinking of doing a full Audio set up in my new mustang with all new high end speakers and AMP's and all and today I started thinking that I don't need it much louder then the stock 500 set up. But I would like a Highend headunit like the Pioneer Z2 or the D3 or something like that so that there is nav. and blue tooth and Ipod.

#1 is it worth doing just the headunit and headrest screens?

#2 will it sound any better with a after market headunit?

#3 will the speakers and stock amps work with a aftermarket headunit?

#4 Or would it just be best to go ALL out and do the whole car all new speakers and subs and 2 amps and all.

What do you guys think I would love any insite you guys have.

Thanks.
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Old 11-07-2007   #2 (permalink)
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I've got the shaker 500 in mine and thought it was pretty good until a buddy of mine talked me in to a sub and amp. I added to the 500 with a 10" sub with dual voice coil powered by a 400 watt amp and custom box. The thing ROCKS now
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Old 11-07-2007   #3 (permalink)
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For most people, the Shaker 500/1000 systems are sufficient for everyday use. For an audio enthusiast, the Shaker audio systems just won't do. What you have to realize is that most of the power in these systems are for the subwoofers. On the 8" midrange subs in the doors, each one handles 60w MAX on each coil. They are dual voice coil subwoofers, which means that we can estimate that those two subwoofers combined use approximately 200 watts of power at full volume.. For a Shaker 500 system, that means that there is supposed to be 300 watts of power remaining. This is a lie. The factory mach speakers in the door and rear deck lid can handle about 40-50 watts MAX. In reality, you can expect the Shaker 500 to provide 400 watts MAXIMUM power, with a RMS power ranking of maybe 250-300 watts. This is kinda funny seeing how most standard head units with built in amplification can provide 200-250watts of power for about $100. I think the Shaker's audio quality is fine for most people. I personally didn't like the way the stock amplifiers would produce sound at high volumes. Also, the speakers aren't the best quality. I had problems with my Shaker system. It would have problems reading CD's. Even if they were brand new. I had it replaced under warranty, but still had the same problem.

I changed out my Shaker 500 system for a Valor 6.5" double din DVD/TV unit. It provides true 5.1 Dolby Digital surround sound (there's a center channel!!).. Stock 8" midrange subwoofers have been changed out for 8" low profile midrange subwoofers which handle 800W MAX each. Those are powered by an MTX Class D amplifier.

Door panel speakers have been changed. I am using a conversion plate that allows me to use 5.25" speakers with long throws and high quality liquid cooled dome tweeters. These are infinity audio products.

Rear deck lid has been modified. I have installed 2 12" Kicker CVR subwoofers in the decklid!! In the trunk, you will find a custom bandpass enclosure attached to the underside of the decklid, allowing better bass response for the subwoofers. Those are powered by a 1400W Class D MTX amplifier.

In the rear, two Sony satellite surround speakers are flesh mounted into the window pillars with fiberglass molding. Bondo rocks!

Center speaker is a flesh mounted center speaker that lays in the dash, making it almost invisible. It is manufactured by JBL. You can find this product in other cars, such as the Toyota Prius.

Total price for all these audio upgrades cost me about $1400. It's a far better setup for the money, seeing how the Shaker 1000 system costs about $1200. I wish I could've bought my car without the Shaker 500, but I purchased it in December of 2004. I didn't want to wait to have a car ordered. Plus they had the color that I wanted.

Next install will be Pioneer seat mounted subwoofers for added effect in DVD mode. haha. The women will love it, but they better not get my seats dirty.
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Old 11-08-2007   #4 (permalink)
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The stock speakers are crap, the door speakers (not subs) and the rear ones are rated @ 25 watts, made in China and have the world's smallest magnets on them. I upgraded just my speakers and the difference is amazing.
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Old 11-08-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Arrow

Ok so We need new speakers :-)

I was looking at maybe doing the slim Pioneer 8" subs for the doors?
Dose this sound good? I know there is not Alot of room for the door
subs. what other brands and models have people used?

for door and rear deck speakers I was thinking of useing the
Alpine Type X SPX-17REF 6'5 in Components. Dose this sound
like a good pick?

I hear the new Alpine Class D Amps are very nice and small?


What is a Pioneer seat mounted subwoofer?
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Old 11-08-2007   #6 (permalink)
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well if you didn't buy the shaker 500 upgrade, like I, you don't get subs, or sub holes in the door. Meaning that you either have to pay to get new door panels, or make your own. Ford quoted me $289 each panel. So be thankful for that aspect at least. I have the basic stock setup and just added 1 infinity 12" sub, with an infinity amp. Im pushing 400 watts rms just from the sub, and so far stock speaker and headunit have worked fine with this combo. I might replace the speakers for some infinity's when the stock speakers start to go...

It sounds awesome, and I rattle the trunk with just 1 12". I had a big system in my other car. I was running 3200 watts max, 1900 rms. Let me just tell you that I think I turned it close to the max once maybe twice, it was just toooooooo much. Normal listening in any system you might use will prolly be between 300-600 watts rms, I dont care who you are, 1000+ rms will make you go deaf in a matter of an hour or so, plus a major headache, litterally.
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Old 11-08-2007   #7 (permalink)
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i have a modest system in my stang and I like it.

aftermarket alpine headunit, and two alpine 10" subs powered by a JBL 1200 watt amp.

install was easy. 12 bolts for the head unit and some wire running for the amps. i still have teh stock speakers. they sound ok until you want to "crank it" then you can her the distortion kicking in. if you want to spend the time and money, get youself some new door speakers as well.

you wont regret it. one of these days I will be doing the same.
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Old 11-08-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcfrisch View Post
The stock speakers are crap, the door speakers (not subs) and the rear ones are rated @ 25 watts, made in China and have the world's smallest magnets on them. I upgraded just my speakers and the difference is amazing.
what did you upgrade too? I've heard about the Earthquake SWS-8's for the doors, but that's about it so far. Need to make some changes though, there has to be better sounds out of the 500 than what the stock speakers are giving......

Might be worth the time to take the car to one of our Car Audio Speciality shops and let them give me their opinion on what it needs....
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Old 11-08-2007   #9 (permalink)
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If anything, upgrading the speakers and leaving the stock head unit in (for the Shaker500 anyways) brings out the shortcomings of the Shaker500. In this case, if you're going to get wet; go swimming. In other words if you're planning on getting a new head-unit or new speakers, then plan on getting both.

I've got an Alpine CDA-9856 with iPod support installed as well as Alpine Type-R (5x7/6x9) speakers installed in the doors and rear deck. I've got the car wired for my sub (which will be a single 12" Alpine Type-R dual voice coil sub, powered by a 400w class D Alpine amp) The car is wired with Rockford Fosgate 8 gauge wires.

I'm keeping the stock 8" subs where they are for the time being. When I ran wires for the new sub (which i'll be getting soon) I hard-wired the remote wire to the head-unit and spliced the remote wire for the 8" subs into that with a switch in between, allowing me turn them on and off at will. The switch is mounted on the removable plate inside the center console, and I used splitters to allow me to plug in both the 8" subs' RCA's and the Rockford RCA's simultaneously. With this setup the Alpine sub will be on whenever the stereo is on, and the 8" stockers will come on at the flick of a switch.
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Old 11-08-2007   #10 (permalink)
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I used the Kicker shallow mount 8" midrange subs... They fit perfectly. Also to address the question about the pioneer seat mounted subwoofers, you can find these in a lot of lexus SUV's. To save space in the vehicle, they mount a ported pioneer subwoofer underneath the seat. It has a slim design, but packs a lot of power for it's size. It adds to the total effect, especially in dolby digital 5.1ch mode.

My word of advice is that if you are going to change your speakers and leave the shaker system, you are going to show very little improvement. The shaker systems do not pump out quality output at any volume. My best word of advice is to change all the speakers and the shaker. DO NOT use the factory amplifiers to power aftermarket midrange subs in the doors. 1) The factory amplifier will not have enough power to run the aftermarket subs which will leave you with a dead spot in your sound system and 2) it will just sound distorted if you try and max the system out to even hear the subs. Even bridged, the factory amplifiers are cheap chinese amps made by little children. You get what you pay for. That's Ford's moto. Us mustang owners slowly change out all the cheap crap they put in our cars.. That's why our cars cost significantly less than other automaker's sport vehicles. If our vehicles were built with quality parts and accessories, we would have a 40k price tag just for a v6.

If any of you guys and gals have any questions, feel free to ask me. I've been doing caraudio/video work for many years now. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question.
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Old 11-08-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Wow, I am glad to see that I am not the only one who does not care for the Shaker 500 system. The head unit is going ASAP. Later, door/deck speakers and I will power the new ones with an aftermarket 4 channel amp. The final addition will be a JL Audio Stealthbox and either a RF Power 500 or JL 500 to drive them.

As for now, I am thinking about leaving the stock subs in the door for midbass, but that is subject to change since everything else is going to go.

I will save on the installation since I used to install car stereos in a former lifetime, and I purchase the system piece by piece so that I don't feel the big sting to the bank account all at once.

Lastly, no matter how you cut it, I despise the Shaker 500 head unit because it pauses between tracks on mixed cds and live performances that HAVE NO PAUSE. That one issue is driving me insane!
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Old 11-09-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Well, I have had many high powered sub setups. The best one hitting 156db. I had the Shaker 500 in my car and I was not impressed. I decided to start by replacing just the HU and see how it sounded. I installed a D3 and the difference(with stock amps and speakers) is amazing. I could stand to have a little more fidelity but I kind of like not having a sub box in the trunk. Maybe I'm just getting old. I have my choice of installing my previous W7 or the Kicker L5 I removed from my other car before I sold it. Everytime I think I'll install one of them I change my mind. I may just replace the full range with my MB Quartz components and install an upgraded amp system.
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Old 11-09-2007   #13 (permalink)
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I had the Shaker, but it was removed within a week of having the car, so I never really got to sample the HU. I have a older Pioneer DEH-P6500 HU, 2 RF P400.4 4 channel amps, Pionner 6x8's in the doors and rear deck, 2 12" MTX Thunder 4500's in the trunk and the door subs wired via voltage regulator to the HU. I personally think it sounds great. My only gripe is that there is a rattle in the window switch on the drivers side, so when the bass hits, it rattles a bit. Not the end of the world, but I have to get that fixed.

Anyway, yes, you should replace the factory speakers at the least. It was a night and day difference when I switched out mine. It sounds awesome and is nowhere close to the top-of-the-line stuff (which is fine if you are on a budget). I think those shallow-mount subs will be fine, but I'm almost certain that Dynamat or some other dampening product will be necessary to keep down on vibrations and distortion. I'm leaving the stockers in personally. They work well for me.

You can see my setup in my profile if you are curious.
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Old 11-24-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Hey there 2005_v6_mustang,

Its good to see someone with a wealth of knowledge on the subject of car audio. Plus, I can tell you're a guy like me who isn't always concerned with quantity (in this case, the sheer output of the audio system), but more-so concerned with quality.

Your setup sounds great, and I've always wanted to install the kind of system in my car that would rival a Logic7 setup you'd find in a BMW, but its hard to beat since those vehicles have had acoustic engineers impacting their designs. The real goal for me is creating audio that truly surrounds the driver and passenger, and it seems like that's been your goal too.

If you were to recommend putting that setup of yours together in stages (assuming that's realistic), which pieces would you pickup and in what order?

Also, would you mind posting links to the products that you used?

Thanks a bunch,
Chris.
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Old 01-07-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Can anyone recommend a stereo shop in the Seattle area that understands the Shaker 500/Mustang installation, amps and wiring? I want, at a minimum, a new head end and probably speakers and Dynamat. Every time I go in to the local Car Toys I get a different story, everything from no problem to we can't do it for less than $10,000. Yes that was Ten Thousand Dollars.
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