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heyheymymy

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So I just installed a Kenwood Excelon 5 Channel Amp, two 6.5 Alpine door subs, both6.5 Apine rear deck speakers, and added a 12" JL Sub. Here's how and where I made the connections/wires using the factory Head Unit. I have the Mustang GT Premium with the 9 speaker set up.
No factory sub.

Here's how to get the doors and rear deck apart without breaking anything... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PO7hgaD5I7M

I got all my front speaker wires from the driver's side kick panel.
It's the harness in the amplifier. You can easily find the speaker wires because they're twisted together. BE CAREFUL PULLING OFF THE KICK PANEL! It will break the tabs if you aren't gentle.

To remove the hood lever, you have to take a flat head screwdriver and pop off the cover on the handle, then push the tab that sticks out inside the hole on the lever and it'll come right off easy. Once you see it you'll know.

Colors are:
LF
WH + WH/BR - 6.5" door sub
GN/BU + GY/BU - 3.5" Door Mid
GN/BU + GY/BU - A PILLAR TWEETER (these are tapped off the 3.5"")

RF
WH/VT + WH-OG - 6.5" DOOR SUB
VT/GY + YE/OG - 3.5 DOOR MID
VT/GY + YE/GY - A PILLAR TWEETER (again tied to 3.5" in door)

THE MIDDLE SPEAKER IN THE DASH IS
GN + GY/YE -

The REAR speakers are easy to get in the drivers kick panel, but I got mine from the rear deck. I just cut the stock speaker clips off, ditched the factory speakers and wired them up to the factory speaker wires.
The colors for the rear are the same in the drivers kick or in the rear deck lid.

REAR SPEAKERS:
LR
WH/GR + BN/YE -

RR
BN/WH + BN/BU -

to hook up to my amp I used Line Output Converters AFTER the amp.
and ran RCA's to the amp input. I cut the factory speaker wires in half at the factory amp harness clip in the driver's side kick panel.
The side of the wire going to the amp harness clip I wired to the line output converter, then I took the other side of the factory wire and connected it to speaker wire and ran it to my amp. This seemed to me the best way to get the job done since you can't safely/easily run speaker wire through the door because of the plastic clips.

There's a great ground bolt right behind the driver's side kick panel plastic. It's on the retainer where the kick panel clips in.
9mm bolt I believe.

Then I ran the 12v from the battery across to the driver's side and used the empty grommet on the far right side if you're facing the hood. It's easy access through the fire wall. then I ran the power wire down the center console. That is a pain. I had to remove the entire center console which is really difficult. If I did it again I'd run the 12v+ wire down the passenger side with the Remote Amp Turn on Wire.
Try to keep power wires on one side of the car and speaker/RCA wires down the other to stop noise. I have zero noise through my system the way I did it.

If You MUST run it down the center console .... here's how to take it out... 2015 Mustang center console removal - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums

be careful of the plug you disconnect under the cup holders, the black one in the ky FOB detector, while it's disconnected the car won't see a key so don't think it broke when it says "no key detected" just plug it back in and you're fine.

Now remote turn on wire... everybody's having trouble find them, but I found a little miracle wire by complete and utter accident:

Forget tapping into the fuses. In the 2015 they're always on 12v+ plus, it's not a great install move. Could get pulled out easy. You should not add a switch, you will forget one day and you're battery will be dead from the amp being on.

So, if you remove the passenger side kick panel there is a harness at the very bottom with a big fat green wire. It's staring at you at the bottom of the kick panel. Maybe 8-10 gauge. Just test it. It's perfect ignition on 12v+, accessory on 12v+, and off 0v when you turn the car off.

To ground the amp, there's these cool little rubber grommets in the trunk on the floor under the carpet by the spare tire well closest to the rear seats. if you ground right by the grommet you won't hit anything underneath the car. (like a gas tank... be careful.)

Then for the sub, I tapped a Line Output Converter right off the rear factory speaker wires and hid the LOC in the upper trunk lid and velcro'd it down. You'll see when you're in there. there's tones of open channels. For that LOC ground I pulled the driver's side rear side panels right off and found a beautiful factory ground right next to the driver's side seatbelt assembly close to the door opening. Some people say you shouldn't tap off the rear speakers, because of the Ford factory sound shaping cutting the bass... but you can. It works fine and it has plenty of Bass. It get TONS of bass to my sub. way more than any normal person would want. YES, rattles the whole car, enough bass. If it's not enough adjust the gain on the LOC and the sub level on your amp.

I think that's it... It sound awesome and it works perfect.
I had such a nightmare searching every inch of the internet to do this install because there's no info on the 2015 models yet that I had to share. I hope this helps anybody else trying to do it on their 2015 mustang. Go for it!

It's not the "RIGHT" way or the "WRONG" way, It's just how I did it and it worked for me.

I hope this helps everyone get their cars sounding how they want them!

Good luck everybody! If anybody has questions, I'll do my best to answer or show pictures.
 
Great POST Brian! Freaking Great Instructions!:surprise:.....This Must be made into a "Sticky"
Again Brian, Good Job!!:grin:

Sean.
 
HI do you have any pictures where the entrance to the cab from the firewall? having a hard time finding it for my Live wire from battery. Also where did you run the wire, Across over the engine? isnt that a melting area?
 
Grond Wire.

Hey there, I followed your instruction to a "T" on my 2105 mustang and it worked perfectly except for the Ground. I'm having a hard time finding a ground that is close to the trunk. Can you help me out? Thank you so much.
 
So I just installed a Kenwood Excelon 5 Channel Amp, two 6.5 Alpine door subs, both6.5 Apine rear deck speakers, and added a 12" JL Sub. Here's how and where I made the connections/wires using the factory Head Unit. I have the Mustang GT Premium with the 9 speaker set up.
No factory sub.

Here's how to get the doors and rear deck apart without breaking anything... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PO7hgaD5I7M

I got all my front speaker wires from the driver's side kick panel.
It's the harness in the amplifier. You can easily find the speaker wires because they're twisted together. BE CAREFUL PULLING OFF THE KICK PANEL! It will break the tabs if you aren't gentle.

To remove the hood lever, you have to take a flat head screwdriver and pop off the cover on the handle, then push the tab that sticks out inside the hole on the lever and it'll come right off easy. Once you see it you'll know.

Colors are:
LF
WH + WH/BR - 6.5" door sub
GN/BU + GY/BU - 3.5" Door Mid
GN/BU + GY/BU - A PILLAR TWEETER (these are tapped off the 3.5"")

RF
WH/VT + WH-OG - 6.5" DOOR SUB
VT/GY + YE/OG - 3.5 DOOR MID
VT/GY + YE/GY - A PILLAR TWEETER (again tied to 3.5" in door)

THE MIDDLE SPEAKER IN THE DASH IS
GN + GY/YE -

The REAR speakers are easy to get in the drivers kick panel, but I got mine from the rear deck. I just cut the stock speaker clips off, ditched the factory speakers and wired them up to the factory speaker wires.
The colors for the rear are the same in the drivers kick or in the rear deck lid.

REAR SPEAKERS:
LR
WH/GR + BN/YE -

RR
BN/WH + BN/BU -

to hook up to my amp I used Line Output Converters AFTER the amp.
and ran RCA's to the amp input. I cut the factory speaker wires in half at the factory amp harness clip in the driver's side kick panel.
The side of the wire going to the amp harness clip I wired to the line output converter, then I took the other side of the factory wire and connected it to speaker wire and ran it to my amp. This seemed to me the best way to get the job done since you can't safely/easily run speaker wire through the door because of the plastic clips.

There's a great ground bolt right behind the driver's side kick panel plastic. It's on the retainer where the kick panel clips in.
9mm bolt I believe.

Then I ran the 12v from the battery across to the driver's side and used the empty grommet on the far right side if you're facing the hood. It's easy access through the fire wall. then I ran the power wire down the center console. That is a pain. I had to remove the entire center console which is really difficult. If I did it again I'd run the 12v+ wire down the passenger side with the Remote Amp Turn on Wire.
Try to keep power wires on one side of the car and speaker/RCA wires down the other to stop noise. I have zero noise through my system the way I did it.

If You MUST run it down the center console .... here's how to take it out... 2015 Mustang center console removal - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums

be careful of the plug you disconnect under the cup holders, the black one in the ky FOB detector, while it's disconnected the car won't see a key so don't think it broke when it says "no key detected" just plug it back in and you're fine.

Now remote turn on wire... everybody's having trouble find them, but I found a little miracle wire by complete and utter accident:

Forget tapping into the fuses. In the 2015 they're always on 12v+ plus, it's not a great install move. Could get pulled out easy. You should not add a switch, you will forget one day and you're battery will be dead from the amp being on.

So, if you remove the passenger side kick panel there is a harness at the very bottom with a big fat green wire. It's staring at you at the bottom of the kick panel. Maybe 8-10 gauge. Just test it. It's perfect ignition on 12v+, accessory on 12v+, and off 0v when you turn the car off.

To ground the amp, there's these cool little rubber grommets in the trunk on the floor under the carpet by the spare tire well closest to the rear seats. if you ground right by the grommet you won't hit anything underneath the car. (like a gas tank... be careful.)

Then for the sub, I tapped a Line Output Converter right off the rear factory speaker wires and hid the LOC in the upper trunk lid and velcro'd it down. You'll see when you're in there. there's tones of open channels. For that LOC ground I pulled the driver's side rear side panels right off and found a beautiful factory ground right next to the driver's side seatbelt assembly close to the door opening. Some people say you shouldn't tap off the rear speakers, because of the Ford factory sound shaping cutting the bass... but you can. It works fine and it has plenty of Bass. It get TONS of bass to my sub. way more than any normal person would want. YES, rattles the whole car, enough bass. If it's not enough adjust the gain on the LOC and the sub level on your amp.

I think that's it... It sound awesome and it works perfect.
I had such a nightmare searching every inch of the internet to do this install because there's no info on the 2015 models yet that I had to share. I hope this helps anybody else trying to do it on their 2015 mustang. Go for it!

It's not the "RIGHT" way or the "WRONG" way, It's just how I did it and it worked for me.

I hope this helps everyone get their cars sounding how they want them!

Good luck everybody! If anybody has questions, I'll do my best to answer or show pictures.


Great post!

Thank you!

-B


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Had an audio install done on my 2016 GT. It turned out horrible. There's a hissing noise even when radio is turned off. The speakers pop when Siri is engaged. The A/C reduces output much like it does when I am on a call or when engaging Siri. I don't know what to do or what my options are with the car audio installer who did the work. Does ANYONE have any recommendations on what I should tell the installer to do to fix the issue. I paid over $1K to get this work done and I'm frustrated. I guess I should've left factory speakers alone.
 
Hey there, I followed your instruction to a "T" on my 2105 mustang and it worked perfectly except for the Ground. I'm having a hard time finding a ground that is close to the trunk. Can you help me out? Thank you so much.

What i did was remove the bolt from the rear seat, its only one black then flip the hinge. From there I had to get my sand paper and started sanding out the paint to bar metal. Place the ground ring cable that attached to my amp its needs a LARGE ring, since the bolt is huge to make it fit.
If you cannot find a large ring for grounding hold it in place there and bolt it back down making sure its touching the bare metal.
 
For those who installed an amp and getting exhaust feedback from sub woofer even when the radio is off, you will need to remove the Active Noise Control from the map lamp. Once you remove the map light box there 2 black wired devices, remove the one on left side. Just separated the 2 halves with your finger nails.
 

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