No project ever stays to the minimum work - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019 Thread Starter
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No project ever stays to the minimum work

So last fall, my Mustang developed a knock. I thought it was coming from the transmission, so I got a rebuild kit for it. Turns out that wasn't the problem, but it still needed a rebuild. And I put a Summit version of the Steeda Triax shifter in it at the same time. Maybe it was a clutch or flywheel problem? Pull the trans again, all the clutch bolts are tight, and so are the flywheel bolts, so it's not that. Then I notice that the knock gets worse as the engine warms up. Must be bad bearings. Pull the engine, and sure enough, the rod bearings have debris in them. Send the motor off to the machine shop to get the crank polished and new cam bearings installed since those are toast, too. Shop calls me up and says the crank is cracked at the front of the first rod journal. Big ol' crack through half of the journal. Probably caused by a bad balance job (see this thread for balance woes).

So while that's off getting worked on, I addressed a leaky mechanical fuel pump by ditching it for an electric one. Mostly, I just want to be able to fill the carburetor after tuning it without either cranking for a minute or sloppily pouring fuel into the bowl vent. So while running a wire to the back to power the pump, I started poking around for a place to run the wire from inside to outside the car in the floor pan under the back seat. Turns out the floor pan, which was covered in bondo, didn't have much metal underneath it. In trying to chip away the bondo to evaluate how easily I could patch it, I pulled up some of the floor metal with the bondo. Yay. So now, I've cut out much of the sheet metal in the seat pan area, and even some of the wheel house that was likely the source of the rot, and started patching it up. And I still haven't gotten the fuel pump running yet.

What started out as bearing replacement has morphed into a partial restoration. Yay.

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Proud owner of a '65 289 coupe. Equipped with Edelbrock Performer intake, Quick Fuel 680HR carb, ported stock heads, 282 Magnum solid cam, Hedman longtube headers, MSD ignition, and decked and ported heads. T5 transmission with hydraulic clutch. Griggs Racing GR350 suspension. 8.8 rear end. Griggs front & Wilwood rear brakes. Many more mods to come!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019
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I'm with you, Paul. I've been putting a '66 back together (I got it in parts/buckets/boxes). I have the interior done and the body ready for paint. It runs and drives but the 6 cyl engine and manual trans are operating may need some work. I just do one thing at a time.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019
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Run the wires under the sill plate inside the rocker panel recess. Use some wire loom over the wires.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019 Thread Starter
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Run the wires under the sill plate inside the rocker panel recess. Use some wire loom over the wires.
That's kinda how this whole rust repair thing started. Had to take apart the interior to run the wire through there, then I just got carried away poking at the bondo.

Proud owner of a '65 289 coupe. Equipped with Edelbrock Performer intake, Quick Fuel 680HR carb, ported stock heads, 282 Magnum solid cam, Hedman longtube headers, MSD ignition, and decked and ported heads. T5 transmission with hydraulic clutch. Griggs Racing GR350 suspension. 8.8 rear end. Griggs front & Wilwood rear brakes. Many more mods to come!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019
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And I thought I was the only one that could take an oil change to a full blown resto....
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019
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Funny how that happens. I had a bad ball joint. You can replace only one ball joint on these cars. But if the left one is bad I might as well replace the right one, correct? Well, if the ball joints are bad, I wonder if any of the suspension has ever been replaced. By time I was done I ended up replacing the entire front end suspension, upper and lower control arms, struts, springs, & shocks. I should have done that a long time ago. When I replaced the rear leaf springs and shocks I was pleasantly surprised at how much better my Mustang handled. Had similar thing happen with the front brakes. I had a situation that convinced me my car needed to stop much better. Ended up swapping out the front discs with Wilwood 4 piston discs and Porterfield shoes on the rear. Now it handles so much better and stops when I need it to. Funny what you get use to.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019 Thread Starter
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Got the fuel pump running, one seat pan patched, and engine mostly back together. I'll save the other seat pan for a week when I have nothing else going on and I have another tank of CO2/Argon mix. Still waiting on the oil pan, since I'm going with a road race unit to fit around my Griggs front suspension. The previous Fox body pan fit just fine, and I'm sure any other road race pan would also fit fine, but if I want to scoot the motor back, the front sump would hit the steering rack, so that needs to be specially clearanced. Purchased a '94 Mustang starter to hopefully improve starting ability and reliability, though that will also need a bit of rewiring since it apparently has its own starter relay built in. I have a insulating blanket to hopefully prevent heat soak from the headers to further prolong starter life. I need to finish the wiring on the fuel pump and put the interior back together soon, but that should be easy enough to do this week.

Proud owner of a '65 289 coupe. Equipped with Edelbrock Performer intake, Quick Fuel 680HR carb, ported stock heads, 282 Magnum solid cam, Hedman longtube headers, MSD ignition, and decked and ported heads. T5 transmission with hydraulic clutch. Griggs Racing GR350 suspension. 8.8 rear end. Griggs front & Wilwood rear brakes. Many more mods to come!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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And she's back on the road! Just in time for the much-delayed Washington summer driving season! I did miss the Mustang Roundup, but there's autocrosses and car shows aplenty coming up!

She still needs a bit of carb tuning because I was running on a winter tune before, and the MSD distributor seems to need a rebuild because the timing keeps jumping a few degrees, but she's at least running again!
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Proud owner of a '65 289 coupe. Equipped with Edelbrock Performer intake, Quick Fuel 680HR carb, ported stock heads, 282 Magnum solid cam, Hedman longtube headers, MSD ignition, and decked and ported heads. T5 transmission with hydraulic clutch. Griggs Racing GR350 suspension. 8.8 rear end. Griggs front & Wilwood rear brakes. Many more mods to come!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul289 View Post
And she's back on the road! Just in time for the much-delayed Washington summer driving season! I did miss the Mustang Roundup, but there's autocrosses and car shows aplenty coming up!

She still needs a bit of carb tuning because I was running on a winter tune before, and the MSD distributor seems to need a rebuild because the timing keeps jumping a few degrees, but she's at least running again!


Great to know she is up and running First ride out of the garage is always grand!



J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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