Hi all, I bought a 66 coupe today as my first car ever. I'm really excited about this vehicle.
Its engine was rebuilt (200) was rebuilt about 20k ago, and the interior's all brand new and all that great stuff. I have two nagging questions however.
Its a california car, but it has been here in pittsburgh for a year and rust discoloration is starting to evidence itself on the paint. I want to stop this and fast, what can I do on my own and what would I need a shop for. Its going out into the elements one way or the other. It rains a lot here but i'll take it down south before the winter.
There is an odor of gasoline prevalent during most times of operation, especially near the trunk. It only comes through when the car is running. The engine compartment doesn't carry the odor. What can I start to look at as a cause for this.
Thanks all and I am really excited to own this car as a daily driver.
you'll learn alot from doing it yourself. so i'd recommend that over taking it to a shop. but as for the rust, sand it off with some sand paper, clean the area real good, bondo (if needed) and just paint over that area. as for the gas smell... you'd better get used to it lol. but uhh, i'd say look at your exhaust pipes, they could be rusted out, or have holes in them. which causes it to leak gas fumes out.
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1967 Cougar, an original Hi-Po 289 with FoMoCo heads, Hedman headers, 3 inch H-pipe flowmasters, Titanium valves, Edelbrock 750 cfm, Mild cam, Ford 9 inch 4:11 posi trac. rear end, bored .30 over,High rise intake, Original black on black leather interior, original vinyl top and original mercury indian rims.
Just do not use body filler as a hole filler or put it on over a 1/64 of a inch thick.Look around your gas tank for leaks and trying to pin point where the smell is coming from.
Great, so where do I find out a good instructional on sanding down and repainting rust discoloration and bubbling then? Its very minor. How do I paint it so that its seamless with the rest of the paintwork short of repainting the whole car. We're talking absolutely no body rust, bondo and all that good stuff is way to involved I believe.
Btw I realize I put this in the wrong forum, sorry bout that.
Just depends on how big and deep the rust bubbles are might have to patch it.The only things that will fill a hole right are lead aka body soldier or weld in new metal.There is a body filler with metal in it i don't know how good it is i never used it yet.
Great thanks, how do I match the color to the car for the paint (silver on the 66 coupe) and how do I repair the clear coat once i finished sanding it? Are there tools for this stuff?
I also have a 66 & the same problem, I have read a few posts on this topic. I'm going to check that all the groumets are installed in the floor pans & above the rear shocks. Also like mentioned before make sure you do not have any exhuast leaks.
Good luck
Most of the time the cause of fumes coming into the car is a dried out and cracked trunk weatherstrip.
Check the rubber weatherstrip around the rear deck lid - if it is dried out and cracked, exhaust fumes will make their way into the trunk from the end of the tailpipe, even if you don't have any exhaust leaks.
The good news is you can get one of these for less than $10 at most Mustang vendors.
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Beri Fraley Strong, Proud and Ugly
If you find yourself in a fair fight, you haven't been trained properly.
alright i'm replacing the weatherstripping on the trunk lid and also looking at the filler hose. Could someone answer my paint questions with a link please?
Additionally, when idling the car tends to develope a vibration towards the rear of the car. The suspention does sqeak a bit and will get greased accordingly, but what should I start looking for with regards to a grinding sound coming from the back, only when the engine's not really working just idling.
I believe the grinding sound could be coming from the differential. Might be worn out and have some tolerances open up, allowing for slop in the gears causing a grinding sound.
as for the paint situation, it's going to be really hard to paint just one spot of the car, and make it not noticable. if you have rust bubbles forming in various places, then you're just going to have to repaint the whole car. but if the rust is just on a door or the trunk lid, you'll have to paint that whole piece. you can always get a paint shop to mix you up some acrylic that matches your paint, but it's never going to be the EXACT color. and you will most likely be able to see the spot you painted from the origonal color. and for some advice, if there's one rust bubble forming, that's not the last one. it's due to bad paint preparation. someone didn't sand it well enough, or get enough primper on that particular spot. but my advice- sand the whole car down, grab a can of rust-o-leum rust remover, spray it on the places where there was rust, then paint the car as normal. i hope this helps you a little bit.
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1967 Cougar, an original Hi-Po 289 with FoMoCo heads, Hedman headers, 3 inch H-pipe flowmasters, Titanium valves, Edelbrock 750 cfm, Mild cam, Ford 9 inch 4:11 posi trac. rear end, bored .30 over,High rise intake, Original black on black leather interior, original vinyl top and original mercury indian rims.
Spot rust and fuel odor, 1966 Mustang 
