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Old 04-19-2008   #1 (permalink)
blak5lame is offline Apprentice

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Default planning on buying a 1968 mustang

im planning on buying a 1968 mustang and i wanted to know where is the most vital rust spots that are impossible to fix.
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Old 04-19-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Kennesaw   Georgia
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huh it depends on the car history
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2007 Satin Silver Mustang
4,009 cc 4 liters V6 engine with 100.4 mm bore,84.4 mm stroke,9.7 compression ratio,overhead cam,Multi-point injection system,157 kW,210 HP SAE @ 5,300 rpm;240 ft lb,325 Nm @ 3,500 rpm,Immobilizer,Strut front suspension independent with stabilizer bar and coil springs, beam suspension rigid with coil springs
In other words, All Stock
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Old 04-19-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Cowl vent floor pan trunk rear wheel wells pretty much anywhere its a old car and rust is like a crazy ex always showing up in the wrong places.To test the cowl vent its the holes by the windshield and wipers pour water in it if it comes out in the floor pan of the car its rusted out.the cowl vent is a real mother to fix gotta take the windshield out and cut 120 something spot welds.Also take a magnet off your fridge try sticking it around the rear wheel archs if it don't stick then theres thick body filler hiding rust or a wrong repair.Also take a hammer and give the frame rails front and back a good wack they can rust from the inside out so if the metal is thin you'll find out.
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Old 04-19-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Hello. None of the rust is impossible to fix. Some places are just more expensive than others. The cowl area is about the most expensive. Hope that helps.
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Old 04-19-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Smyrna   Tennessee
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I started from the bottom up when I went looking at mustangs. Put your finger in every hole of the floor pan you can, there are rubber plugs over the seat bolt holes and others, if you can pop them off feel around for piles of rust scales, in the front/rear frame rails also. If the seller lets you pull up a corner of carpet look there too. Torque boxes and cowl grill area as mentioned above.
I found a car with some rust in the outer wheel well areas, that can be fixed when the body work/paint is done. The car looked new underneath with very little rust, I don't weld so that was important to me. Stick you hand down to the lowest point of the trunk fender corners you can and lift the trunk mat and look around the gas tank mounting area also.
Basically crawl all over the car but water settles at the bottom of everything. I looked at a conv. and the first bad sign was a new paint job, pulled piles of rust out of the floor pans/frame rails, when I shut the door I could see the rear quarter move...
Didn't buy that one.
Jon
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Old 04-19-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Jon hit on a great point. If you weld, you can save gobs of money. All the panels are available, but GOOD welders charge Good money (unless you have a welder in the family).
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Old 04-23-2008   #7 (permalink)
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on a 1968 mustang is it hard to repair rust on that peice of metal below the rear wind sheild. its in between the rear winsheild and the trunk. how much would it cost
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