[Little Mule]

I have a 67 with a few engine mods and I'm thinking of swapping the stock fan for an electric one. Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions on what would be best for performance and functionality? Thanks.

[The Greek]

I've got a 67 with an electric cooling fan. I had to slightly offset the fan because its real tight between the end of the waterpump shaft and the radiator. I suggest looking for the thinnest fan with the highest CFM rating that you can get.

If you are using a stock alternator, I would suggest upgrading to higher output unit.

[RSALSUP]

Yes CFM rating is very important. The faster the better. THin is in, especially when you get on it the engine will torque and a thicker fan will hit the water pump. It also increases your horsepower by 7 or 8 when you take off that metal fan. Good Luck

[kenton_90]

hey post if you do it and how it went along with plus which fan you went with I have been thinking about doing the same thing but cant decide

[cbetty]

Here is my electric fan, rather simple to install. It works great.

[The Greek]

I want to tell you of my experience with a Flex-a-Lite Black Magic fan that I have.

I had to eliminate the thermostatic switch on this fan. I could never get the fan to start and stop at the same temp. Everytime I drove the car I had to go under the Hood to reset the switch. I would set it to come on at 190* and it wouldn't come on until it hit 200*. I would readjust and then it would come on at 170* and so on. It would never come on at the same temp. I got sick and tired of the fan running at a temp of 160* while I'm driving on the highway or not coming on until it started to overheat. I just couldn't trust it. The company doesn't sell just the switch, they want you to buy a complete replacement thermo module.

I ended up rewiring the fan and using a temp sensor from Painless Wiring that threads into the coolant thermostat housing. It is preset to come on at 185* and off at 170*. This may be a little too cool, so I also bought one that comes on at 200* and off at 180*. It only takes 5 minutes to change them out. The cost of both sensors was still way less than buying the module.

Another problem that I had was one of the 4 permanent magnets that are in the motor came unattached from its location in the motor housing. It jammed up against the armature and the motor stopped running. Fortunately I was in my driveway when this happened.

I was able to reattach the magnet using J B Weld epoxy, but getting the fan blade off of the motor was an adventure in itself.

I thought that I would pass my experience along. I may have come across that one "Lemon" that was on the shelf or maybe it's Flex-a-Lite. All that I know is that I'll be thinking long and hard before I buy another of their products and man, they ain't cheap.

[Little Mule]

Thanks for all the infor. The car is in the shop right now getting a valve job done and doing a brake conversion to all discs. As soon as I get it back I'll measure the radiator and decide.

[66 restomod]

We have a 3 row radiator and an electric fan that pulls 2300 cfm. The temp will creep up to about 3/4 of the safe zone on the 66 gauge when idling in 90 degree temps. Sorry, dont have a true temp indication to post. I read that you want to run 2300 cfm on a 3 row radiator to keep it cool.
I went with the curved blade model to reduce noise. When it kicks on it is a wind tunnel in the engine bay!
Here is the chrome one from Speedway we got for $99.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/4374...ectic %20Fans

With an electric fan you will be using the battery to run it and your alternator should be rated for 100 amps to keep up with the load.
Our 2300cfm fan draws 16 amps...
Info in case someone is thinking about installing one.

Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification
A code 66 coupe
289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion
Hydraulic clutch
Granada Disks

[Cobra6]

You might want to consider one of these Hayden clutch fans - I am about to add one to my '65.
Fan Clutches & Fan Blades

A clutch fan is the way to go. Be sure to get the thermal version, not the cheaper non-thermal. The thermostatic responds to temperature, not just engine rpm and will work better on an A/C car.

They are not very expensive, and look like they belong on the car - as opposed to an electric setup.

I'm not a huge fan of electric fans due to the complexity of upgrading. (as noted in the several posts above) You get the fan installed, then you end up swapping to a higher amperage alternator, larger battery, upgrading battery cables, etc. In the end, you still have a greater potential for failure than before you started.

Clutch fans are stone simple, replace your existing fan with a clutched unit, done. Cost is about $35 for the clutch, plus a blade, which can be sourced from just about anywhere. They move air only as required, freeing up some hp and mpg, and are much quieter overall. I think the Hayden clutch I have is #2710.

Something else that needs to be considered is the pulley ratios. A non A/C car will generally have an underdriven water pump, while an A/C or extra cooling car will have the waterpump / fan overdriven.