i know its hard to tell the condition from pics but im wondering if you guys could give me some help on what a good purchase price would be on this 65 65 mustang-----MAKE AN OFFER!!!!
the owner got the block casting # for me but just the first two its a D2 which is a 72 right?
what are some key things to look for when i go to look at the car
Hello. The car appears to be about as close to worthless as something with that much metal can be. It probably has some parts on it that would make it useful as a donor car, but as a project to restore, you would lose your shirt on this one. I think that I would keep looking if I was you.
im srry i didnt say what i was planning to do with this car i dont plan to do a full resto but more of a nice driver rebuild the motor thats in it beef it up some redo int and body work
Hi again. This car could be ressurected, but it would cost sooooo much more than the car would be worth when it's completed. I've brought cars back that were in a lot worse shape than this one, but they were all cars that were worth more finished than it cost to get them there. This car, even in the best case scenario of being a K code, which it isn't, would still cost more to finish than it would be worth. The car needs about 5 grand in paint/ body work, assuming that the cowl isn't rotten, which is by no means a safe assumption. It would also need basically a new interior to get the car into a condition that a person wouldn't feel like they needed to put on a wetsuit just to be able to sit in it. The car will also have all sorts of electrical issues, and we all know how much fun those are to sort through. It would probably end up being cheaper to just rewire the entire car from stem to stern, which would run something in the 3 grand range. Everything that has anything to do with brakes would definitely need to be replaced, which would end up being something in the thousand dollar range. The guy says it runs, but people don't generally drag a car out into the middle of field and leave it there for god knows how long because it runs so well. I did notice that it didn't have a battery in it. Even if it did run ok when it got there, which it probably didn't, you would still need to do the major tune-up/ oil change/ rebuild carb thing. If it was an old gull wing Mercedes or 250 Ferrari or 289 Cobra or something, it would be worth bringing back, but, a plain jane 65 coupe? Big time money pit. There are much better 65 coupes available for purchase that wouldn't be nearly as difficult or, in the long run, expensive, to restore.
Hi again. Just for future reference, whenever you see a wiring kit that includes a big pile of zip-ties and a box full of butt-splice connectors, the installation will be a far cry from Painless.
The entire collection of brand new, as-original wiring is only about 1400 bucks, and will make the installation much, much easier. It's still not something that your average hobbiest is going to knock out in a weekend, but it is something that the original wiring diagrams will at least be helpul with. On the painless kit, you have to run each wire, one at a time, figure out where each wire is supposed to come from, where it goes to, cut it to length, install the appropriate connectors, etc.... If you figure your time as being worth like 2 bucks an hour, you would still be struggling to come in under 3 grand.
The best plan off attack on a car like that would be A) pull out the interior, all wiring, motor and transmission.Send it to the paint shop, send the motor and tranny out to the appropriate shops for rebuild, so they can do their thing while the body shop does theirs,when it comes back from the body shop, run all the wiring, install the motor and tranny, install the interior, then tackle the brakes, steering and suspension. And when you are finished with that, you will realize that you could have bought yourself a couple of very nice driver quality 65 coupes that only needed some minor tweeking to get right for about the same amount of money that you just spent on this one.
well i checked with painless and u r right the kit is about 50% open-ended so where can i get the as-original kit
i will do the motor and trans myself along with brakes,steering and suspension so i can save money there
i know that putting a car like these is not a quick process but that is OK i really dont want to buy a car that is for the most part done b/c i want to build this car with my family i think the car would hold more meaning to us that way
i appreciate all the feedback you are giving me it will deff help
Hi again. If what you see in the pictures doesn't scare you, and this is to be a family project, then, when I went to look at the car more closely, I would check the condition of the frame rails first, especially in the rear area of the car. The leaf springs are pretty much all that holds the rear axle assembly into the car, and all that holds the leaf springs into the car are is two big bolts, both of which go through the rear frame rails. Next, I would look at the floors in the area that the firewall overlaps the floor pan. It is possible, even likely, that a car will straight up break in half going down the road if that area is eaten up with rust. Then, I would check the cowl area for rust. That area doesn't really create a major safety issue, but it's veeeeery expensive to fix, and it allows water to gush into the car when it rains. All of that electrical stuff is available from index.htm There is almost certainly someone closer to where you live, but these guys are honest, and very helpful with figuring out what it is you really need. You can call them and they take as long as it takes with you to make sure that you get everything that you need and nothing that you don't. They want you to be happy. And, in case you were wondering, I am in no way affiliated with Mustang Mania. I do not work there, I have never worked there at any time in the past, I own no stock in the company, I do not own the property that the business is located on, and I have no friends or relatives, no matter how distant, that any of those things would be true about. They're just a great bunch of guys, and there aren't very many places that you can say that about these days.
About that ' family project' thing, I hope that you have some daughters, because far more often than not, sons are completely, utterly worthless on such a project. I have one each, and what I see people posting on this forum, and what I hear from people that I know, is very consistant with my own experience in this. I have to threaten all sorts of sanctions to get my son to hand me a screwdriver, while my daughter, on the other hand, is always happy to help me out. Up until my son was about 12, he thought that working on cars was like playing with dolls. It's something that girls do.
Looks rough as hell 500 bucks or less.Rust is the biggest problem most the cowl vent rust out so the floor pan gets rusted out from the leaking cowl vent.
Looks rough as hell 500 bucks or less.Rust is the biggest problem most the cowl vent rust out so the floor pan gets rusted out from the leaking cowl vent.
really for a running car, i doubt they would take that
Running don't matter its all the things wrong with it.Its going to need a ton of work so the cheaper the better.The 64-66 was the most made of the early mustangs so there everywhere and its not a rare car.Just look at the rust on the back bumper im sure theres rust holes under it not shown in the pictures.I could be wrong tho pictures mean nothing to me look it over in person.Add says make a offer id go low 500 then up to maybe 1500 tops.You can pick up a coupe with a almost prefect body for 3k in most places it might not run but replacing a engine and tranny is cheaper then a lot of rust fixing.
I'm with andrewmp6, offer $500 and go from there. Jack it up, crawl under it and give it a thorough inspection.
This list should handle most of the wiring headaches, should you decide to tackle that tired old Pony. Plus all the clips, some of which you may be able to re-use.
VirginiaClassicMustang.com
Under Dash Wiring Harness............ $400
Firewall To Headlamp Harness.........$110
Alternator Harness........................$ 22
Windshield Wiper to switch.............$ 45
Firewall to Engine Gauge Feed.........$ 35
Battery and Starter Cable Feed.......$ 45
Tail Light Wiring Harness................$ 95
1965 Coupe purchase-need advice 
The car appears to be about as close to worthless as something with that much metal can be. It probably has some parts on it that would make it useful as a donor car, but as a project to restore, you would lose your shirt on this one. I think that I would keep looking if I was you.
It would probably end up being cheaper to just rewire the entire car from stem to stern, which would run something in the 3 grand range. Everything that has anything to do with brakes would definitely need to be replaced, which would end up being something in the thousand dollar range. The guy says it runs, but people don't generally drag a car out into the middle of field and leave it there for god knows how long because it runs so well. I did notice that it didn't have a battery in it. Even if it did run ok when it got there, which it probably didn't, you would still need to do the major tune-up/ oil change/ rebuild carb thing. If it was an old gull wing Mercedes or 250 Ferrari or 289 Cobra or something, it would be worth bringing back, but, a plain jane 65 coupe? Big time money pit. There are much better 65 coupes available for purchase that wouldn't be nearly as difficult or, in the long run, expensive, to restore.
