Been reading a bunch of old threads and figured I'd just ask. My 65 hardtop has its original 200ci six and four lugs all the way round, all drums. My goal was to bring her back to life and restore her pretty close to the old spec. I know that everyone raves about front disc conversions, but they really are pricey.
Be honest, how effective will 4-way drums be? Obviously they stopped the car back in 1965, but are they still all right on today's roads? I have to redo them all around, new wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, hardware, the whole nine yards. Is the disc conversion really the way to go, and should I lay down the cash, or will four-way drums be okay for regular road driving? I'd really like to avoid extensive surgery, she's in great shape after sitting in a garage for 20 years. But if you all think it's necessary... I'll take your word for it.
Thanks.
They are adiquate and very reliable when in good shape they do require a bit of maintenance and adjustment over there service life. kudos for wantin to keep it original. Remember the long shoe goes in the back.
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Stang UP Fam, Member
I might be addicted to these lil cars...
Aw Hell I Am
514 big block 84 hatch to soon terroize AZ..
my 67 had a big block in it with 4 wheel drum brakes and it stopped no trouble you wont stop on a dime but they definitly work. the only thing you need to remember is its not a new one give yourself a little extra room for stopping and you will be fine.
I have the original drum brake system on my 65 convertible (200 c.i.). The drum system has worked fine for me, although I only drive it for fun and it will never be a daily driver. One suggestion I would make though is to upgrade your single bowl master cylinder to a dual bowl, strictly for safety reasons. Two summers ago, my right rear wheel cylinder failed and I lost all my brake fluid and all my brakes. Lucky for me that most of that occurred in my garage (I had it out that day though). At least with the dual bowl, I will have some braking power if that ever happens again. Other than new paint, the dual bowl MC and the C4 Auto, I've managed to keep my 65 pretty close to stock.
Good luck with yours!
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1965 Convertible 200 I-6, C-4 Auto (originally 3-speed manual) "Groovy Red" (originally Wimbleton White, then dark green) Newly restored and finally home!
1969 Mach 1 351 (W) 3-Speed Manual, Winter Blue, Deluxe Interior, All original, per Marti Report/Eminger Invoice. Finally moving her from the barn to the garage to begin work!
very true! change the master to a daul bowl.
4 way all the way around is fine for commuting.
my uncle has discs all the way around, and you will notice improvement.
but, no worth it, if you wont use it too much
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1980 Ford Mustang HB 3.3L I6 K&N Air Filter, 9mm Ford Racing Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Holley 1946 Carb, Inferno Coil, 95 Black Cobra R wheels, 275/40/17 BFG G-Force rear!
I have a '66 convertible that sat for almost ten years after I originally restored it. It had a bad transmission leak and would leak a quart of Type F in about 24 hours. When I finally got a lift and changed the transmission I had to use both feet to get it to stop in less distance than a football field. I investigated several disk conversions and found one that was not as pricey. Scarebird in Washington has engineered a system that uses off the shelf components. It's still about $300, but IMHO well worth the expense. My car is a 200 cid six and I kept the original wheels. It uses rotors from a Nissan, calipers from a Chevy Cavalier, and lines from a Cadillac. I did the conversion in about six hours. While at it, I changed the fluid to a silicone fluid because the car sits most of the time. If you're interested, I'd be glad to answer any questions you might have about the conversion. One of the reasons I chose this path was that I could buy the parts as I could afford them and then embark on the project. My e-mail is creave@ktc.com.
my 67 had a big block in it with 4 wheel drum brakes and it stopped no trouble you wont stop on a dime but they definitly work. the only thing you need to remember is its not a new one give yourself a little extra room for stopping and you will be fine.
Sound advice.
I have the original 4 wheel drum brakes on my 68, and have absolutely no intention of changing them out. The drums work fine. My car is not an everyday driver, I use it for cruises, shows and sometimes just driving around on a weekend, never put more than 2000 miles on it in a year in the 11 years I've owned it.
Plus I'm trying to keep it as original as possible and worked hard to bring the few things that were changed back to factory specs or close.
Unless you're going to be showing the car in concourse judging classes then I do recommend the dual bowl master cylinder too for safety sake for 65 and 66 cars.
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1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project
Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
Oh I'm totally with you on that. I've come to the idea that I want to keep her pretty stock (with a few safety upgrades) and she will be an occasional driver.
With that said, I've decided to keep the drums all around, so it's rebuild time. I've been pricing out drums and hardware... the mustang parts guys have nice kits but they too are pricey, and most want $65-$70 per drum. I found the same drums at autozone and advance for less than $20. It may not be concours, but it sure beats a sharp stick in the eye.
So here's my question: I'm replacing everything from the spindle out, I'll leave the old hubs, but new bearings and raceways, drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, lines, master cylinder, hell, even backing plates. They're a little sorry on my 65. So I've been searching... no repo backing plates! Does anybody out there make real brand new backing plates? You'd think they would, they rust out just as quick as anything else. I can't find 'em. I'd really prefer not to settle for some used backing plate off a junkyard dog, even if it has been blasted and painted. Anybody know where I can get brand new backing plates? Or do I have to settle for restored ones?
Classic 4-lug drum brakes 
