1965 Mustang fuse panel / fuse box diagram? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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I have the original owners manual in my March '66 Dearborn coupe as well as a repro copy. The repro is an amazingly accurate copy of the original. On the back cover both are Form 7833-66. The March original is Second Printing, January, 1966 (inside front cover). The repro says Third Printing, April, 1966. On page 40 in a section titled 'Circuit Breakers' (??) both have the same identical picture of the fuse block with the lower fuse labeled as "20 AMP FUSE LIGHTER AND EMERGENCY FLASHER".

By at least January someone had decided that Mustang fuse should be a 20A. Who knows if it ever actually became a 20A. FWIW the underdash harness in my July San Jose car has the same fuse block as the March Dearborn both with the small slot labeled as 20A. The July main harness (which includes the fuse block) has a Ford label of C6ZB-14401-F.
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Hi again. The part number on the boxes of my nos harnesses is C6ZZ-14401-F. These are definitely not leftover 65 harnesses, since the harness is very different from a 65. The 65s had idiot lights, and the later ones with gauges had different ammeter gauges, and the emergency flasher wiring was different. It's probably more like what Ivy66GT said. Someone realized that they needed a 20 amp fuse, and the wheels turned very slowly from that realization to actually having a fusebox in the cars that would both say 20A and be able to actually hold a 20 amp fuse.
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I would agree with those words. Even when a '65 had hazard flashers the switch did not have spade terminals to hook into a connector. The switch looked the same on the front but it had wires directly bonded to the switch body.

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The part number on the boxes of my nos harnesses is C6ZZ-14401-F...
Since they are both 'F's I would think the only difference between yours and mine is that mine came in a car and yours came over a counter somewhere.
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Pictures help me figure things out.

I know this is an old thread but I am having some problems relating to my fuse box and was searching for some answers and pictures. Came apon this thread and it helped but still had some confusion. Once I copied the pictures and started linking things together visually it all started coming together for me. So I thought I would add the pictures that I scribbled on back into the thread. Might save someone else down the road from taking the time to scribble it out....


If I made any errors please post up any corrections.

Thanks to those that posted and once again to Veronica and your web site. I find myself going there when ever I am looking for some answers.


1965 Mustang fuse panel / fuse box diagram?-65-66-fuse-box-collage.jpg

1965 Mustang fuse panel / fuse box diagram?-65-66-fuse-box-w-desc-custom-.jpg

1965 Mustang fuse panel / fuse box diagram?-66-fuse-box-w-desc.jpg

1965 Mustang fuse panel / fuse box diagram?-6-fuse-box-front-back.jpg

1965 Mustang Coupe, 289, AT, Autolite 2100
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i have a 66 coupe where is the emergency flasher switch at in the inside of the car?
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I don't see in the diagram, or labeled on the fuse box, which circuit feeds the horn. I'm a little old and chunky to climb under that dash very many times with my multimeter; anything that can help me isolate and fix problem as quickly as possible is highly appreciated!

When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.
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Hello. The horn wiring doesn't go through the fuse box. There is a yellow wire that comes from the headlight switch and goes up to the horn button, then the blue/yellow wire goes out to the horns. Here is what the fuse box does.
The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Mustang Fuse Box 1965 1966
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Quote:
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Hello. The horn wiring doesn't go through the fuse box. There is a yellow wire that comes from the headlight switch and goes up to the horn button, then the blue/yellow wire goes out to the horns. Here is what the fuse box does.
The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Mustang Fuse Box 1965 1966
Hi Veronica, I realized today that I caused the horn to not work due to some wiring mistakes I made under the hood. I installed a relay for the horn and I had it hooked up wrong!

When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.
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Hi Veronica, I realized today that I caused the horn to not work due to some wiring mistakes I made under the hood. I installed a relay for the horn and I had it hooked up wrong!
Hi again. I hate it when I do that.
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Quote:
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Hi again. I hate it when I do that.

Hey Veronica

Can you lend your expertise for a moment. This yellow wire has no power to it when key is on. In this diagram it is number 913. Goes to the heater blower motor.

http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wi...6/66acces1.jpg

However the heater fuse is good, has 12 volts on both ends, and according to the diagram the yellow wire is not going to the fuse box anyway. I can't figure out why this stopped working. Does the yellow 913 wire only have power if the fan is good? Or am I missing something obvious. I've checked fuses and connectors. My back is killing me from being twisted up under the dash and my face is beat to heck from everything I've banged it against while trying to get out from under the dash. I'm getting frustrated cause I can't figure it out myself!

When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.
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Hi again. How that is supposed to work on your car is that there is a brown wire coming out of the fuse box that takes keyed power straight to the blower motor. The yellow wire coming out of the blower motor goes to the resistor, and that three wire connector going from the resistor to the switch is what takes power to the switch, with the switch housing working as the path to ground, with the position of the switch determining which of those three wires is actually grounding out on the dash. So, with the key on, that yellow wire plugged into the front of the resistor should be hot. If it is not, I would unplug the yellow wire from the heater blower and see if the yellow wire coming out of the motor was hot. If yes, the problem is with that yellow wire somewhere along its path to the resistor. If no, unplug the brown wire and see if the wire that you unplugged from the blower, not the wire that is coming out of the blower, is hot.If yes, the blower motor is bad. If no, the problem is somewhere along the browm wire between the fuse box and the blower.

As a side note, you're supposed to crawl through the glove box, slither underneath the radio and then wrap yourself around the steering column like a tree boa to avoid beating yourself up in there. I think that this is even in the shop manual supplement.
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Quote:
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Hi again. How that is supposed to work on your car is that there is a brown wire coming out of the fuse box that takes keyed power straight to the blower motor. The yellow wire coming out of the blower motor goes to the resistor, and that three wire connector going from the resistor to the switch is what takes power to the switch, with the switch housing working as the path to ground, with the position of the switch determining which of those three wires is actually grounding out on the dash. So, with the key on, that yellow wire plugged into the front of the resistor should be hot. If it is not, I would unplug the yellow wire from the heater blower and see if the yellow wire coming out of the motor was hot. If yes, the problem is with that yellow wire somewhere along its path to the resistor. If no, unplug the brown wire and see if the wire that you unplugged from the blower, not the wire that is coming out of the blower, is hot.If yes, the blower motor is bad. If no, the problem is somewhere along the browm wire between the fuse box and the blower.

As a side note, you're supposed to crawl through the glove box, slither underneath the radio and then wrap yourself around the steering column like a tree boa to avoid beating yourself up in there. I think that this is even in the shop manual supplement.
What if I told you the brown wire under the dash is fluctuating from like 3-5 volts? This might be where it is coming out of the fuse box, there is a 2 lead connector (yellow & brown) near the fuse panel, I disconnected it and the brown wire is fluctuating like I described (when i turn the key on, 0 volts when I turn it off).

You know what I need is lonnnnng skinny arms. :shiny:

When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.
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Ok Veronica, you nailed it! I pulled off the wire loom so I could check for voltage, and guess what - both wires disconnected. Also noticed in the same general area, the transmission dipstick handle is bent down. Looks like the guy that did my hood and fender alignment probably disconnected by mistaken while working back there and with the wire loom still covering it, did not realize.

When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.
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