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Old 02-27-2009   #1 (permalink)
madokang is offline Apprentice

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Default 1966 Mustang Performance Help:

Hopefully ok to post this here and under "Classic Tech".

I have a 66 w/289 c code auto (great engine with 30k miles!)...

Looking for ways to enhance performance. So far I have done the following:

1. Dual exhaust w/40 series flowmasters 2.5" from headers.
2. Tri Y headers (installing next week)
3. Pertronix Ignition Upgrade (coil, plugs, cables, cap, rotor - got rid of points).
4. 66 A code manifold and 4100 carb from an A code (all rebuilt - installing this weekend).
5. 3 row radiator (clutch fan and 7 blade fan w/shroud going in soon)
6. new hipo water pump on it's way (180 Tstat)

I don't want a track car or anything I just want the best performance as I keep car original (sleeper style).

Anything else I miss... or anything you all recommend?

thanks!
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Old 02-27-2009   #2 (permalink)
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ported and cnc'd stock or cast iron heads brodix has a good set i believe
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Old 02-27-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Hi, well if You want more performance I would have went with a dual plane intake and a aftermarket 600cfm carb. Also to get any benefit from the upgrades You need a little more rear gear than what those cars came with stock. Being a small block, it needs rpm to get hp. more gear will get You there quicker. Also a little more cam than stock will bring that engine to life. I would put in a trans shift kit. Don't need nothing drastic, something like a trans go kit and servo kit to give You firmer shifts. This will also help to save the trans by applying the clutches with more pressure. I have been rebuilding transmissions for over 30 years now, so with what I have seen, I would not put a shift kit in a transmission that has been around a while or with some miles on it. I would go through a rebuild the transmission first. Putting a trans kit in a transmission that might have weak seals or clutches will kill the transmission.
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Old 02-27-2009   #4 (permalink)
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I don't know if I want to get that crazy with it... I don't want to take engine apart. Maybe down the road.

thx
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Old 02-27-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Again View Post
Hi, well if You want more performance I would have went with a dual plane intake and a aftermarket 600cfm carb. Also to get any benefit from the upgrades You need a little more rear gear than what those cars came with stock. Being a small block, it needs rpm to get hp. more gear will get You there quicker. Also a little more cam than stock will bring that engine to life. I would put in a trans shift kit. Don't need nothing drastic, something like a trans go kit and servo kit to give You firmer shifts. This will also help to save the trans by applying the clutches with more pressure. I have been rebuilding transmissions for over 30 years now, so with what I have seen, I would not put a shift kit in a transmission that has been around a while or with some miles on it. I would go through a rebuild the transmission first. Putting a trans kit in a transmission that might have weak seals or clutches will kill the transmission.
Thanks for info... I wanted to keep it as original looking as possible. That is why I went with 1966 A code manifold and rebuilt 1966 autolite 4100 carb.

I wanted to get tran rebuilt soon. Maybe that is my next move!

Also, what you recommend for rear? 9" or just different ratio with stock 8"?

thx

Last edited by madokang; 02-27-2009 at 11:14 PM. Reason: Forgot something...
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Old 02-27-2009   #6 (permalink)
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For what You are tell Me on the performance updates I would just put more gear in the 8 in.. It should hold up just fine unless You put some serious rubber on it.
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Old 02-28-2009   #7 (permalink)
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I would start with the brakes suspension wheels first.The build you up a roller 302 and a tranny to hold the power and drop it in.
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Old 02-28-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Again View Post
For what You are tell Me on the performance updates I would just put more gear in the 8 in.. It should hold up just fine unless You put some serious rubber on it.
What rear ratio should I shoot for?

I'm currently on stock 2.80 can I go 3:50 or what you all recommend?

thanks again!
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Old 02-28-2009   #9 (permalink)
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I'd go with 3.50
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Old 02-28-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp6 View Post
I would start with the brakes suspension wheels first.The build you up a roller 302 and a tranny to hold the power and drop it in.
Yeah, ordered a front and rear disc kit and also got front and rear sway with new shocks. Springs look like they were replaced few years ago (according to a work order/receipt).

I wanted to get magnum 500 wheel kit... I think that would be a nice look and fit.

thx
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Old 02-28-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BlueHorse View Post
I'd go with 3.50
Awesome... I'll look into this with some local shops.

Is this something I can do out of the garage?

I'm no hi pro mechanic but can work around a car.

thx
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Old 03-01-2009   #12 (permalink)
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if you get the whole center section its pretty easy to change. Just drop the drive shaft pull out the axles and take out the bolts that hold it in. Then put the new one in, bolt it up, hook up the drive shaft and install the axles. If you just get the gears its a lot more complicated i think. i don't know how to do that.
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Old 03-01-2009   #13 (permalink)
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I might just grab a new center with ratio I want (3.55) and install myself.

Any recommendations as to where I can find it online for good price?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 03-01-2009   #14 (permalink)
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I don't really know of many places to get them. If you want one thats cheap you will have to look around for a used one. Here is a web site that sells the whole center section put together Ford Rear End - Ford 8 Inch Ford Third Members - Category Index. Prices go from $850 for open gears to $1425 for a detroit locker. Might be able to find them cheaper somewhere else. Its pretty easy to find the ring and pinion gears and other parts for the 8" but its a lot harder to find the whole center section/third member already together.
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Old 03-01-2009   #15 (permalink)
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It would be best if you only post on Talk or Tech, talk would be for stock type questions and tech would be for rebuiding or mod questions, it gets hard to follow what we've answered when you see it on both boards, gets redundant. There's only 2 classic sections, I think everyone pretty much reads both.

Check out your local craigslist and fleabay for rebuilt differentials / 3rd members. I usually search by 8 inch or 9 inch respectfully. I found a rebuilder w/in driving distance and called him, had him build me one to order (9", 3.50:1, 4pinion tracloc, etc.) he took my 9" conv. 3rd member as a core and my old 8" drum to drum and I saved on shipping.

While you have the axles out I'd have new bearings pressed on, after 40+ yrs. one of mine locked up after I had the car 9mos., this'll usually happen when your far from home and I've seen someone burn one up on the interstate = welded to the axle tube.

Here's a good calculator to plug in your tire height, trans. (3rd gear on a C4 would be 1:1) and gearing. You can try different variables to see what your RPM would be at different MPH. Gives you a good idea of how high you RPM's would be at 60, 70, 80, etc. Might save you from picking too high of a gear, if you drive for any length of time on the interstate I'd pick 3.25 with a C4, just my opinion.
Randy's Ring & Pinion. RPM Calculator.
Jon
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Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
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