[akunschner]

I am converting my Drum brakes to power disc and I have 2 questions. 1... Will the existing brake lines work with the new power booster and master cylinder. 2... Can I use the existing proportioning Valve work or do I need to change it?

[rodbender]

Your front flex lines and prop valve will probably have to be changed. I would replace all the steel lines unless it's been done already. I went on a Nantucket sleigh ride in my 66 Tbird convertible ONCE. Blew out a line and no brakes. That's something I always do after that.

[MIL1ION]

Just replace everything like I did.. you would have to do it eventually anyway.

Yes a different PPV, MC , Booster,and Pedal (at very least the brake pedal) assembly is required


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[RF Mustang]

Yes, If you are doing a disk brake conversion, the best bang for the buck is CSRP. I would go with the Granada swap. I have done two mustangs so far and both went without a hitch. You will have to change everything from the mastercylinder to the calipers, spindles, etc. and everything in between. Yes you will have to have a proportioning valve becuase of the pressure differences between drum in rear and disc in back. You should change brake lines without question.

Call Dennis greenburg at CSRP. I got everyhting I needed plus the combo valve upgrade for $560. no one else comes close !!!

[C25sailor]

I am currently doing the Disk Brake Conversion from CSRP (Swap 3 --68 -73 Mustang Kit) with the PB Upgrade. It has the correct stuff for the 1968. I think that the extra $ for the power conversion is worth it -- the manual brakes have to generate about an extra 400 psi to operate the disks and the power conversion gets you a new combo proportioning valve / distribution block. Plus there's no time like the present to make that swap.

Only other thing that I'd also look at is CSRP's 67 Kit it is the 4 piston Kelsey Hayes stuff -- because with that one, unlike the 68-70 Swap 3 kit, you don't have to replace spindles, etc. -- it is not correct for the 68 (but neither are slotted rotors)-- but it looks like an easier install. The power conversion requires some tight work under the dash to replace the pedal and to install the booster - either way.

One other thing -- because the Swap 3 requires some pulling of suspension parts, etc. to replace the spindles -- I'm also going to replace the bushings that I touch. If your 68 looks like mine (which has less than 33K original miles) the old rubber suspension bushings are like asphalt and definitely need replacing. This looks like as good an opportunity as any. You'll also replace wheel bearings -- because you're replacing spindles.

Everyone who has deals with CSRP seems to have good stories -- as do I so far. When I get everything finished, I'll post a threat.

Since Dennis doesn't have the Swap 3 instructions posted, I'm documenting my install -- and will probably post it for the forum. I'm no high brow mechanic -- and am really just trying to do everything right. I plan on swapping hard lines as a part of the project -- it makes everything nice. Then I'm going to look at Musclecar brakes for some upgrades to the rear drums. Stopping well is nice