starting problems on a 1968

68 Sally · 03-12-2009

throw this out there. cant get 1968 mustang to start. when you turn the key over there is nothing, but when you unplug the three wire, wire harness (the one that runs wire to oil sender, one to temp sender and one to the coil) the motor starts turning over but there is no power going to the coil so it wont fire. does anyone had this happen before or have a suggestion. thanks chris

rpmcarter · 03-12-2009

I'm assuming you are saying the car turns over by bypassing the switch or does it turn over by using the switch?
It sounds like ignition switch or neutral safety switch by what you said. More details, someone smarter than me can answer this. Did you hook just the dist wire and bypass the switch and try that? I'm leaning toward the ignition switch or your neutral safety switch at the moment.

MIL1ION · 03-12-2009

Charge your battery until it is FULLY charges then do this and put that red/green wire back on the coil + terminal

68 Sally · 03-12-2009

it turns over using the switch when you unplug the wire running to the coil. when you plug the wire back in it stops turning over. chris

68 Sally · 03-13-2009

ran a new wire from the coil to the ignition switch so i now have power. it fires over but when you turn key from "on" over to "start" position. the starter does what its suppose to, but when the key is back to the "on" position the starter is still going. any ideas

MIL1ION · 03-13-2009

That NEW wire you ran is NOT good. That original Red /Green stripe wire has a Pink 61" piece of fusible link wire between the coil and Ignition switch to prevent fires. see this image
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...irecolours.jpg

You may have a faulty starter solenoid ..try unplugging the wire to the S terminal and do this

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...kCircuit-1.jpg

On this diagram you will see the wiring.

Ford ignition works on 7-9 volts.. NOT 12 v

Note: On the starter solenoid there are 2 small terminals labels S & I

S has a wire from the ignition switch running to it. This actuates the starter to crank the engine

The I terminal has wire ( Key BYPASS ) that sends 12 volts power to the coil on START UP only.

From what it sounds like.. You have wires crossed.

The Brown wire goes to I terminal

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...solenoid-2.jpg

68 Sally · 03-15-2009

ok will try that thanks chris

68 Sally · 03-15-2009

What sizE fuse is in that ignition wire? Can I just put a in line fuse. Link in the new wire? Would explain why I did not have power in wire probably had a blown fuse which might have had something to do with the pigtail plug being all mElted.

MIL1ION · 03-16-2009

It is a fusible link of Resistance wire ..it's not like a normal fuse that just blows.

68 Sally · 03-24-2009

Do you know what size fuse or amp the resistance wire is

MIL1ION · 03-24-2009

The Fusible link is Code "Pink" & is 61.5 " long 20 gauge wire
The resistance value is 1.30- 1.40 ohms

You could always use a ballast resistor instead.

They are made of porcelin and have a resistance wire like on heater resistors.

68 Sally · 03-27-2009

i have seen those. just tie my new ignition wire into that? also do you have a diagram of where all the vacum lines go. i have a service manual for the car but im not seeing anything for the vacum lines. when i brought this car home someone changed a bunch of stuff. on the back of the intake manifold there are 4 or 5 nipples for vacum lines but they are all plug. there is one coming out the top that runs to the power brakes but that it. there are two vacum cans on the passenger side fender wall neither of them are hooked up too anything, there is a vacum line coming out of the firewall and just laying there appears that it might go to one of the cans but not sure. thanks chris

MIL1ION · 03-27-2009

I have some diagrams of hose routings ....ie: A/C

Do you have A/C, Tilt-away ?

Basically the vacuum tree nipples are plugged off.

What you only need !

1) small vacuum hose to vacuum advance and timed port on carb

2) Large vacuum hose to brake booster

3) small vacuum hose to Auto Transmission modulator

4) small hose from manifold to vacuum Reservoir (if needed)

5) if equipped, small hose to AC ,and Tilt away circuit

68 Sally · 03-29-2009

mine has ac and is a 302 4bbl. no tilt wheel. will have to look this over. this one appears to have a lot more than mine but might be able to use some of it. thanks chris

68 Sally · 04-01-2009

crawled under the dash have spent last three days there. found where someone stuck a bolt in the fuse block which caused the wire running out of the fuse block to the neutral safety switch to catch fire. that in turn melted the wire all back to the ignition pigtail and is what caused all my problems. replaced the wires and i have to order a new safety switch because i was able to get it running by bypassing the switch so im getting closer.