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Old 03-30-2009   #1 (permalink)
Razgrizs is offline Rookie


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Bakersfield   California
Default 289 Ignition help

Ok here is the deal.
I removed the distributor to adjust the timing.( because i couldnt adjust it anymore in one direction) so i did that and it didnt start. So i just put the whole thing at TDC and the dis. rotor pointing at the number one cylinder. After doing so it sounds like it wants to crank but it doesnt. So thinking maybe the battery was low i jumed it , but still nothing. But after trying to start it a few times i saw alittle but of smoke around the starter silinoid. It appears the wire from the selinoid going to the starter began to melt. I also think the oil put shaft fell into the oil pan . I am still new to engine matnience and such, and i am at a loss. Any help would be awesome.
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Old 03-31-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Start by making sure the oil pump drive shaft is still in the pump. If it is not then pull the pan and pump and put it back in. There should be a collar on it that keeps it from being pulled out when you remove the distributor but they sometimes break off. GET A NEW ONE and install it.
Then get your #1 cylinder on top dead center (on the compression stroke - not the exhaust stroke). Then find the wire going to #1 cylinder in the cap and make the rotor point that way when you install it.
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Old 03-31-2009   #3 (permalink)
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what is the diffrence between compression and exaust stroke ? How can i tell which is which ?
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Old 03-31-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Hello. The crank shaft does two laps for every one lap of the distributor. If you rotate the motor by hand around to where the balancer says that you are at TDC the rotor could be pointing at the #1 spark plug hole in the distributor, or, it could be pointing at the #6 hole. Remove the #1 spark plug and rotate the motor by hand( actually, with a 15/16 socket wrench ) with your thumb plugging up the #1 spark plug hole. As the rotor approaches the # 1 spark plug hole in the distributor and the balancer approaches TDC, you should be having some pressure building up in the #1 cylinder.
However, even with the distributor in backwards, the motor will normally cough, sputter and backfire when you try to start it. If I was going to make a guess at what's going on here, the first guess would be that you have forgotten to attach either the ground wire from the distributor to the coil, or the coil wire that looks like a short spark plug wire isn't pushed in far enough. You obviously have plenty of power available if you've started melting wires ( which you'll need to replace ) so, there must be a break in the circuit somewhere. You will definitely be wanting to make sure that the oil pump drive shaft didn't fall down into the oil pan. If it did, you have two ways to go on that. Snatch the oil pan off, retrieve the drive shaft and reinstall it, or, buy a new one and leave the old drive shaft in the oil pan until you get around to snatching the oil pan off for some other reason down the road somewhere. I would recommend choice A) on that one. Hope that helps.
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Old 03-31-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Whether or not the oil pump shaft fell into the pan has nothing to do with your starting problem but you definintely do not want to start the engine WITHOUT that shaft. If it didn't fall in the pan you can see the top end of it by peering down the distributor shaft hole. If that hole has nothing visible down there that is a bad sign.

There SHOULD have been a stop collar at the top of the shaft, hidden from your view, that should keep it from pulling out with the distributor. However, after many miles it is possible for that collar to wear away so that the shaft can stick in the distributor shaft as you pull it up allowing the oil pump shaft to then fall back into the pan. If so, its a tough break since there isn't much you could have done to avoid it.

Veronica's words should get you going again.
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Old 03-31-2009   #6 (permalink)
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These engines are considered 4 stroke engines

Intake = Sucks air and fuel into cylinder

Compression - compresses mixture for detonation

Power - Detonated mixture forces piston down creating power to the crank

Exhaust - Piston forces burned mixture out the exhaust port

This happens to every cylinder in One Cycle.

Perhaps a course in Auto 101 is in need ?

HowStuffWorks "Internal Combustion"


A common mistake is people put the wiring on a distributor the incorrect way.

Also note over time, Timing chains to gears wear and cause slop and sometimes will backfire which strip the cam timing gear throwing the timing between crank and Cam gears off which then causes more backfiring
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Old 03-31-2009   #7 (permalink)
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THanks for the information guys, and girl im going to go use my new knowlegde to try and get my car going again. thanks again, ill let u know how it turns out.
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