[coppah37]

Ive reached the point where im throwing the front end back together and i cant decide which i want to go with for my 66 Coupe. I live in NH so i dont want to go too low because of the rediculous road conditions in some places but i definitely want to go at least 1" with a good set of stiff drop springs or the shelby drop. Also if i do go with the shelby drop will that cause any coil bind or anything with stock springs? Just looking for what your opinions here.
Thanks!

[Calponycarsmike]

I have done the Shelby drop on several cars and used stock springs without any issues.

[1965stang]

There's another thread that just started over on the tech side ("1967 drop springs" I think) I just said the same thing to - the shelby drop isn't really a drop, only just relocating the upper control arm. It changes the geometry for better handling - a design that Arning came up with and Shelby incorporated into his cars for the handling. You'll barely notice a drop with that, just better handling. So, if it's apart, do both - the shelby drop and drop springs. Stock springs are fine too - I shelby-dropped mine using stock coils and it's fine, same as calponycarsmike.

You might ask the other guy from the other thread after he's done with his how it turned out and what he thinks about it.

[65BlueHorse]

I agree with 1965stang, do both. The shebly drop shouldn't lower the car more than a 1/4 inch from everting i have heard and read so to actually lower the car you will still need the springs.

[Cobra6]

Keep this in mind - although the upper control arms (UCAs) are lowered one inch when you perform the Arning drop, your Mustang's ride height will not sit one inch lower in the front. I noticed about 1/2” drop or less on my '65 Mustang from the drop after the suspension settled, and I have heard of ride height changes between ¼” and 5/8” by others who have done this modification. The reason this does not lower the car a full 1” is that ride height is determined by the spring and shock and the relative height where the spring and shock attach to the UCA. The ball joint end of the UCA rests at a fixed height to the road and the spring assembly is positioned in the middle of the UCA between the fixed ball joint end and the lowered end. Since the height of the UCA relative to the road remains the same on one end and changes on the other, the actual drop of the car is somewhere between the two changes of 0” and 1”. So, the drop is less than 1”.

Now - all that said, if your front coil springs are ~45 years old and really shot, you could put on some 620 lb 1" lowering coil springs and the height of your car could actually rise - then you will also be replacing the rear springs.

The standard 1" Arning drop will not create the need for a negative wedge kit or anything else - however you will need to remove about 1/4" of the alignment shims from your UCAs for the alignment to be in the ball park.

Look here for some good info -
DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70

I would also add roller spring perches while I had this apart........

[coppah37]

Yeah thanks for the info i already built the roller perches with a kit. The car was originally a 6cyl so the stock springs need to be changed anyways. I was just figuring i might as well drop it 1 inch for about the same price. So as far as the ride height from before and after i wouldnt know the difference if it were a tad higher or not i guess ots all in the name of performance anyways.

[Cobra6]

While you can get the UCAs off - you need to go ahead and do the Arning 1" drop - it will make a big difference in the way the car handles.