Im finally doing it im taking the 289 to get machined and bored out. I was wondering if the machine shop would charge me more if i gave them an unmeasured block vs a measured one. I hate using plastigauge and micrometers so I wanted to avoid the hastle that and I dont own any.
__________________
Black 2006 GT T-2 Torsen Diff, 3.73 gears, FRPP 90MM CAI, SCT X-Cal 3 tuner/ Speed Inc. dyno tune, FRPP catbacks, Steeda Triaxe w/ Hurst stick and T handle, SVT strut mounts, FRPP strut brace, Steeda UDP, JBA long tube headers, JBA O/R H-pipe, CHE LCAs, CHE anti-squat brackets, Steeda adj. UCA, FRPP blue valve covers
304 rwph, 322 rwtq
1968 Convertible PROJECT candy apple red 289 2V (swapped to edelbrock 600 cfm performer and performer intake manifold with a mild cam)
Let them measure it, that way their responsible, they're going to have to measure it before the bore or hone anyway, I don't know a machine shop that would just take someones word for a measurement and start honing. When they're done boring it they can tell you the size piston/rings to get (.030, etc.) I can't believe they'd charge less because the customer told them a measurement. And machine costs are a set price for services.
Same for cleaning it, they just dip tank it, doesn't matter if it's dirty.
Jon
__________________
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
if you are already in there i would replace what u want to that way the engine is how u want it and then u also know its new and u feel better about it
The rods are normally fine unless you've bent one, I'd bring everything to the shop for them to look at, this is what they do every day. I wouldn't order a kit until they have cleaned up and measured your block cylinders, if any 1 of the cylinders is larger or out of round they'll all have to be bored up to that size. You may buy a 0.10> kit and find out you need a 0.30> and have to send it back. Any complete kit you buy should have all the bearings(cam, main, rod) the crank will have to be checked and turned down possibly, if so those bearings will need to be the correct oversize also.
I just had my motor rebuilt a few months ago and sat down with the shop owner to discuss, he cleaned/measured the block then ordered the brand of pistons/rings, etc. I wanted. It didn't cost me any more than if I had ordered them and brought them to him. This way I was guaranteed to get the right sized parts the first time and he made a little $ on the parts since he gets a shop discount so it was a win/win. If he ordered the wrong size parts he'd have to send them back and reorder, no addtl. cost to me and he wasn't waiting on me to get the parts to him holding up the build.
I don't know if you plan to do the rebuild yourself, I didn't have the proper tools for measuring or time to do it so I left it to a prof.
Jon
__________________
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Taking engine to shop 
