[FastPitch]

About 2 years ago I bought a super clean 1965 coupe with a straight 6 for my daughter who was just starting to drive. Before I gave her the keys I updated the axels to 5 bolt ones, added a disc brake kit for the front (plus all the equip associated with a new pwr brake system), lowered the front springs 1", added KYB shocks and topped it off with a new front suspension system. Because I had a good friend help with the parts I wasn't completely sure about everything he purchased so I don't know the exact specifics of each component.

The car has been absolutely perfect for her and it has been a very perfect match of performance to skill but, here's the two dollar question, we both would like to improve the overall handling of the car and don't really know what to consider.

I know this question will probably yield a flury of responses but we would greatly appreciate your feedback on what we could do to make her car perform more like it's on rails.

Thanks to everyone in advance for any time and input you provide.

Dad to FastPitch :o]

[mustangman1966t]

Was the front suspension rebuilt using factory style replacement parts? You did not mention rebuilding the rear suspension. What springs did you use to lower the front? What size wheels and size tires are on the car? Do you still have the factory front swaybar? What size rearend did you go with and what is it's gear ratio? Upgrade to a larger front swaybar and add a rear swaybar
KYBs are a good shock to put on all four corners. Change your rubber bushings to polyurethane. Straight sixes requires softer springs than the 289's because of weight. The factory steering has a lot of slop. At some point I suggest converting to TCI's rack and pinion. An article is this months Mustang Monthly. Go to the Mustangs Plus website and order the Mustang How-To Volume 1. It has great information on suspension and how to buy modern tires to fit. Also check out their suspension and steering sections of their website. They can make a '65 handle like a new car. Another question is how harsh of a ride are you willing to take for handling

Mustangs Plus

[Jonk67]

When you replaced the front suspension did you do the Shelby/Arning drop? Even the 1" drop is an improvement as it puts the tires flat to the ground for better steering and contact patch.

I went with 4 1/2 mideye leafs on the rear of my '67, ride is firm but not harsh with KYB GR2's all the way around. Replacing the worn out leafs on the rear was a vast improvement for the front as the rear no longer 'pushed' the front in a sweeping turn, I used to enter the interstate all twisted with my nose pointed right but tires straight. I also used poly bushings on the leafs with generous amounts of lube (dielectric grease). When I can afford it and if my skill requires I'm looking at upgrading to Koni or Bilstein shocks I've read they're worth the money for the improvement.

Here's a good article to get you started, explains the suspension shortcomings and upgrades for these cars:
DazeCars, Suspension 101
DazeCars, Ford Galaxie Mustang tech and restoration
Jon

[andrewmp6]

If it was my car start with export brace and a monte carlo bar if you can use it with a inline 6 but both will stiffen up the front end a lot.The shelby drop and roller spring perches would be next on the list and bfg tires.Maybe a rack and pinnon to make steering easier.If you want to add some flavor to the interior look at products if you need help finding stuff let me know i have a long list of sites.

[coppah37]

I have a 66 with a V8 but the chassis is the same. So far ive added a bigger sway bar, roller spring perches, 1 inch drop springs, disc brakes, and a roller idler arm. I plan on getting the shelby arning drop as mentioned above to change the geometry of the front suspension. If you wanted to get really serious you could do a coil over kit or the rack and pinion steering which isnt cheap either i dont believe. If it doesnt have power steering id go with that but a rack and pinion would be nice. Also the monte carlo bars help a lot with stiffening the flex between the shock towers. You could also throw in a rear sway bar to help a little bit and maybe some traction bars and subframe connectors to really stiffen up the chassis. Keep in mind there are some differences in suspension mods for 6 and 8 cylinder cars due to the lesser weight in the drivetrain.

[mustangman1966t]

An export brace is a definite addition and a monte carlo bar if it will fit. Do not go with a larger front swaybar w/o adding a rear swaybar. You will increase your understeer. Go with swaybar packages. The standard for 289s is 1" front and 3/4" rear. You can go down one size on both so the ride won't be as harsh. If you do the Shelby A-arm drop, don't forget to get the camber wedge kit put the upper ball joint back in to proper goemetry.

[FastPitch]

Thanks So Very Much for all the great advice!! We'll be diving in and building it all out through the summer. You folks are fantastic! Can't thank you enough!

Our deepest wishes for continued fun on the road in your Mustangs!
Take care,
FastPitch & her Dad

[mustangman1966t]

You're welcome. Enjoy working on the car. Dad and I had fun working on mine.

[deepcdiver]

I have 1966 coup a bought for my son. when i brought it home it drove like crap, so i had a mustang II front end installed. it has coil over shocks new rack/pinion disc brakes and a new tilt column. it now drives great

[66 restomod]

We have

• Mustang Plus 620 suspension package on front
• 4 1/2 mid eyes in back with sway bars.
• We have the Monte Carlo and export brace.
• Adjustable strut rods

It is a firm ride and the car has no body roll in cornors.

I did a front end alignment myself using Daze's specs DazeCars, Understang Mustang Suspension Including Bump Steer and Alignment
and then took it to to a shop and asked them to check it. I gave them the specs I wanted but they set the car to FACTORY SPECS!

They took my +3 degrees caster out and put it to 0 degrees. The car was scary to drive! Took it back and they put it back to +3 and -.25 CAMBER that I had in the first place.

Much better handling and tracks great in corners.

It is very important to have an alignment done right to take advantage of all the "good stuff" that you do

Ron
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/index.html