Once again I have a problem. My car is a DOG! Got a 68 coupe. Just to go down the parts list, I have a 92 302 converted back to carb. 289 hipo heads (reworked 5/09) e303 cam, Mallory unilite, Edelbrock 600, Performer intake, c4 (with stock stall, this could be my problem) 3.55 gears in an 8". And I can get it to go for ****. I can't figure out timing, I think, it has a slow start, no torque it seems like, can't burn the tires, and accelorating is weak. I imagine I am at about 17-18 secs for a 1/4 (guesstimation of course).
I think it all relates to cam timing, but I don't know what to check, I changed the dizzy a little bit today from one tooth back retard (made it weaker) to one advanced (didn't change a thing). What is the best way to check the cam timing? It may be off, atleast I hope it is a timing issue.
Def something wrong brotha. 3.55's and a (supposed to be) tourqey 298 should light em up with ease. Everything else seems OK? No rough idle or signs of a vacume leak? Your cam should be a bit rough, but if it is burbling like a dragster, you might have a vac leak suckin power. I'd check vacume as well as timing if I were you. The other tree to bark up, is the fact that your cam was designed for a fuel injected motor, and might not be the best for a carb'ed application. Not sure of the specs of a e-303 but I have had good results with comp cams magnum cams for small block fords. Less lobe seperation than a fuele cam, and better throttle responce. What is your lobe seperation like 112deg? I had a magnum cam with 108 deg sep 512 lift and 230 deg in my 302 and it was soooo torquey that I could squeak em...(not on purpose) from a stop on accident MOST of the time when I started from a stop. I had a 68 cougar with 3.55's as well. (same car, different details ya know)
It does have 110 degree seperation. Your right, it does sound like a dragster, then it has rocker noise, almost as if they were loose, but I have checked them many times, and the lash is right and there not backing off. I will look for vacuum leaks, but only have 3 vacuum items, carb, modulator(c4) and brake booster. Anyone know any good tuners in Colorado? ha
Don't forget a vacuum leak might not be just at the ports for your vacuum run items. There could also be leaks at the carb base, carb spacer if you have one, or intake manifold gaskets. I hope you are able to find the problem. Sounds like it will be a pretty good runner when you do.
__________________
Sapphire Shelby
1966 Shelby: Candyapple red w/white Lemans stripes
1966 Fastback: Mild Shelby clone
1989 GT convertible: 5-speed, 3.73 gears, four point roll bar.
Get your ignition timing set properly first!
Check your stall speed: set the park brake, connect a tach that you can read from inside the car, start the engine and place in Drive. Stand on the BRAKE pedal and press the gas pedal to the floor. Quickly read the tach with the car NOT moving and the throttle on the floor. Release the gas pedal and shift to neutral and run at high idle in neutral for 30 seconds.
DO NOT HOLD IN STALL FOR MORE THAN 5 - 10 SECONDS!
If your stall speed is below 1200 then you have a bad converter. (bad one-way clutch)
If the stall speed is higher than 1600 and it revs slowly in neutral then you have a bad converter. (slipping/broken stator or bent vanes in the turbine or compressor)
__________________
Paul's Street and Strip Performance AODs & C4s paulstephens @ q . com 6522 51 Ave. S. Seattle, WA. 98118 206.725.0881
Thanks Paul I will give it a shot. I just got back from tightening every bolt on the block, check vacuum, and then went for a cruise. I am pissing oil from somewhere so much that it shot up on the underside of my hood, mechanical fuel pump and driverside head. I hate this engine, lol, I am going to put in a 350, Just kidding, no one fire up the linch mob, I can stand bow ties, but now they are kicking my ass at the stop lights.
1968 Mustang-Once again having Engine issues 
