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Old 07-14-2009   #1 (permalink)
bradsalex is offline Apprentice

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Radcliff   Kentucky
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Cool Restoration Blues

So the story goes;

I'm in the Army and I got to go home with the family for 2 weeks with aspirations of getting my cah (car in Maine dialect) running. I had done some work the last time I'd been home but failed to realize I didn't get my connecting rod bearings .010 under. So this is where the newest story picks up.

I got home and had $2,000 worth of parts ordered and most of them delivered. The stuff that is still on back order are some minor things like fuel lines and tranny coolant lines (insert sarcasm). The new bearings were there for me to put in. So I set to doing just that. Well...you see what had happened was, I used this green goop that had come with the bearings the first time I got them on the outside. The inner portion of the bearing I used white lithium grease, don't ask why, I saw an engine shop do it on cylinder walls and thought it was a good idea. Yeah, so that didn't work. I spun the #5 bearing and had to wait another week to get a new one due to the 4th weekend.

Then when I got the new bearing I did the same thing, but didn't allow myself to get so far as to spin the bearing. I put it all back together and it wouldn't turn over by hand. I had a friend of my dad look at it and his first question was "why in the hell are you using grease?". He convinced me to wipe off the grease and use regular oil. His next question was "why is the number 3 cap on the number 5 cylinder?". So yeah, I felt like a giant bonehead. I rearranged the caps to go on the right cylinders and it turned slicker than snot on a doorknob.

At this time I have also realized that the paint I put on the engine last year when I was home is peeling off because my dumb a$$ didn't use primer. So I put the rest of the parts I had ordered, and ordered the others that I had forgot, onto the engine where it still sits in my dad's garage on the engine stand.

Now the good part, I had spent most of the trip trying to find a body shop that would do the massive body work to it. Just to name a few things, entire floor pan, both front frame rails, torque boxes, both rear quarter panels, and some other minor stuff. Well most people I talked to either said that it was too big a job or to find a cheap shell and ditch this one. But of course on the day before I had to leave I found a guy that would do everything, although he's just doing the frame and floor for now, so I get the joy of arranging this whole thing from over a thousand miles away and with my dad as the middle man. At least my dad knows what he's talking about and will let me know if the guy is crap or not. He estimated the frame and floor pan at $1500 which is cheap compared to what everyone else was telling me.

Anyhow, that is the gist of the story for now. I will get into more detail as the time passes.
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1967 Mustang Coupe
L6 / 3.3L / 204CI - boiled, bored 0.040, master rebuild kit (complete)
Getting new rear frame rails and trunk pan
Front frame rails, floor pan, and firewall (complete)
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeshow View Post
6 cylinders * pi * (3.68/2)^2 * 3.126 = 199.5ci (original)
6 cylinders * pi * ((3.68 + 0.040)/2)^2 * 3.126 = 203.85ci (bored)
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Old 07-15-2009   #2 (permalink)
Champion Speed is offline Apprentice


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Costa Mesa   California
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It may be worth your time and sanity to let a machine shop inspect and assemble your short block (maybe even the entire engine). Far as the floor pans and frame repair...$1500 is very cheap. Not to knock this guy, but sometimes "good ain't cheap and cheap ain't". You need to ask this guy the right questions about how he'll be repairing the pan/frame, and what parts he'll be using. Is he buying an entire floor pan or trying to repair rust with flat panels of sheet? I would be hard pressed to do just the entire floor pan (parts/labor) for $1500
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Old 07-15-2009   #3 (permalink)
bradsalex is offline Apprentice

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Radcliff   Kentucky
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Yeah, I know with body work you get what you pay for really. The thing is, this guy is unknown to most of the people I have talked to (and I'm from a very small town) but he claims that he has restored many rods and even won some show and shine comps.

He's using a one-piece floor pan replacement that is from Mustangs Unlimited, I have used them for most all of my parts.

As for taking the engine to a shop...that takes all of the fun out of it.
__________________
1967 Mustang Coupe
L6 / 3.3L / 204CI - boiled, bored 0.040, master rebuild kit (complete)
Getting new rear frame rails and trunk pan
Front frame rails, floor pan, and firewall (complete)
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeshow View Post
6 cylinders * pi * (3.68/2)^2 * 3.126 = 199.5ci (original)
6 cylinders * pi * ((3.68 + 0.040)/2)^2 * 3.126 = 203.85ci (bored)
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Old 07-15-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Southlake   Texas
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Haha i know what your talking about by being a total bonehead. I put on my wires on wrong before and i couldn't get the motor to start for a couple days and i was so sure i had it on right. I got my uncle to come down here and when i popped the hood he sighed and shook his head. He swaped the wires and the dang thing started right up. Talking about embarrasing.
Anyways, id let the guy do it but somehow make sure hes doin it right. Lots of work for 1500 bucks.
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
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