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Old 07-19-2009   #1 (permalink)
Kiffin Fan is offline Rookie


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tampa   Florida
Default 1966 mustang dual M/C conversion trouble

Hi all,

My first post is gonna be a fun one!

Here goes. I have a 66 coupe with a 200ci, manual drums and steering. I am in the process of renewing the entire car and may modify to discs later but it is a weekend fun car nothing special. Got my 08 GT/CS for that.

I bought the 67 Dual M/C from CJ pony parts to convert my 66. removed the pushrod and used my old one as instructed. I ran all new lines and rebuilt all the drums. I don't have a vice so I used a friend to help bench bleed the M/C (he held I pushed). I attached the lines to M/C and began to bleed the lines. Started with the Right Rear. NOTHING. bits of air but that was it NO drop in Fluid in the M/C. 1 hour later aftter scratching our heads, we decided to bleed the front. The front Bled great. Just like they were supposed to. So we tried the rear again, still no movement on the fluid.


One item to note. I did remove and then reinstall the spring on the end of the pushrod. Not sure if I screwed it back down to the same spot.

I cannot figure out what to try now? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am thinking of unbolting the M/C and taking it to a local mech with hopes they can fix it, if I can't.
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Old 07-19-2009   #2 (permalink)
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I do not understand why you messed with the M/C I assume Mater cylenrder. I have replaced an entired brake system before and the lines to the back are long - were empty. I let them gravity feed and then bled them. It sounds like you need to just bleed the **** out of the back brakes - you have a very large air bubble in the line to the back. Unless of course you messed up the M/C.
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Old 07-19-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Can't figure it out. As part of the troubleshooting, we disconnected the line at the M/C (master cylinder) and it wasn't pushing from there either.


The original M/C was a single bowl. The one I bought is the dual. It came with the 67 pushrod installed. You have to remove it and replace it with the 66 pushrod due to length differences. Don't think I hurt the M/C but maybe misadjusted the pushrod.

Why I screwed with the spring? I am an idiot. My only explanation for that.
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Old 07-21-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Default try this

HI and Welcome!!
hmm, well let's see~ have you fixed it yet?
Maybe try this~ at the MC, have someone pump the brake pedal and hold it down. YOU, loosen the brake line(at the MC) that feeds the rear brakes just enough to allow brake fluid to come out(if any). Kind of like bench bleeding only you're doing it while on the car. Do this until you obtain good fluid flow, then try bleeding the rear brakes as usual. If you get nothing, then sounds like there is something defective about your MC. If in doubt about bench bleeding, remove both line from the MC, fill with fluid, then have your partner push on the brake pedal while you hold your fingers over the holes where the brake lines go. Me, I place my fingers over where the brake lines screw into the MC, making a seal with my fingers, the person (in your case) pushes slowly on the brake pedal. Wear safety glasses(you don't want brake fluid in your eyes! If you achieve brake fluid from both ports, connect your lines and bleed all your wheel cylinders again. Be sure to wash the brake fluid off the areas where brake fluid got onto. Brake fluid will eat paint!! I'm also a firm believer in gravity bleeding~ just open the wheel cylinder bleeders, and let gravity do the work! Don't let the MC go dry!!!
Hope this helps!

Last edited by dne'; 07-21-2009 at 01:37 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 07-21-2009   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for the tip I will try this but it may be a few days til I get back to you.
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Old 08-10-2009   #6 (permalink)
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tampa   Florida
Default Success!

I reattacked the problem last weekend. Guess the seals just needed to soak up some brake fluid. I can't figure it out but I stepped through all the same processes and low and behold, the fluid started flowing!!! Brakes are bled and now I am off to other challenges. Gotta learn how to work on a carbuerator. Ugghh


Thanks Guys!
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Old 08-11-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Wish i saw this post earlier. Had the same problem a couple months ago and the new wheel cylinders needed to be primed in order for proper seals. Mine were just sucking in and out air. Another cool thing i found about those wheel cylinders is that they are chinese made crap. My fronts went out on me while driving but luckily i found out real quick. Warped sealing surface was the cause of damage. Who the heck would sell a non sealable product?
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.

You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
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Old 08-21-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Kiffin, i just bought this kit for my 66. How did you remove the push rod from the 67 master cylinder?!
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