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Old 08-19-2009   #1 (permalink)
FordGtMan is offline Made Member

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Southlake   Texas
Default Spray can Primer?

Im sanding the coupe down real soon but because i use the car daily, i need the car to be drivable. I was thinking that every day or so id have a section of the car sanded down and primed. I feel that the spray can is the cheapest and easiest for that purpose, but i have heard the spray can primer is crap. Will it be acceptable to use for just the first coat? I will probably get a spray gun to finish the job but could the first coat be the most important? thanks for your time.
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.

You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
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Old 08-19-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Not all spray primer is bad. I know from experience that Duplicolor's is really good stuff.
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Old 08-19-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Like 66 sprint said there are different levels. While the DuPont/PPG/Spies Heckler......ect. professional ones are top tier there are some better spray can primers available at paint suppliers. I bought some that was epoxy based (not laquer) when I touched up my engine compartment when doing panel replacement and repairs. It was $16 a can but sprayed real nice for a spray can and took 24 hrs to fully dry before being top coated. I don't remember the name of it though. I top coated it with Plasti-coat T-8 Satin Black in the engine compartment.

I would stay away from anything laquer based for being put under a paint job you want to last a long while. Also decide what paint you will be using as a finish and that it is compatible to what you are using as a primer and/or sealer. Keep in mind that unless it is an epoxy that the primer will actually ABSORB water (rain, dew, ect) and will cause the metal underneath to rust if not topcoated.

(Now that I have bought a set of LVLP guns I'll be stepping up to the better paints now that I can spray them. They (and HVLP) were out of my budget years ago as I needed other tools more pressingly and had to chose where to spend my money For protected areas, engine compartment, the spray can stuff holds up well on a non-everyday driver.)
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1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project

Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
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Old 08-19-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. Just asked that to my painter and he would have strangled me if i was in his presence. Now i am forced to buy real $ primer. O well, it will look better.
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.

You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
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Old 08-19-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Look at SPI epoxy. It is a great epoxy for a good price. I used it and PPG epoxy and I liked the SPI much better. No induction, lays down nice and sands easily.
Here is more info: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm
Read more about it (search function) on this painting forum:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/

Oh yeah NEVER USE RATTLE for real paint jobs. I did use rattle can in my engine compartment so I can touch it up if I need too. It will fail because it is non catalyzed paint

Good Luck and Be safe
Ron
Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification
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