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Old 09-07-2009   #1 (permalink)
Aloha66 is offline Apprentice

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Mililani   Hawaii
Default 1966 Mustang coupe -- just finished disc brake conversion

My sons and I just finished a disc brake conversion and also went with power brakes -- I am very pleased with the results. Stops MUCH quicker and even stays in the lane. I picked up a kit from discbrakeswap.com and everything we needed was there.
If you are thinking of swapping, I would check them out.

Cary
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Old 09-07-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Very nice ive been looking at CSRP for a while now and fully plan to purchase my kit when the funds are sufficient enough to do so.
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Old 09-07-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Benicia   California
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+1 for CSRP
changed out the uppers, lowers and did the swap in a easy weekend job. Only issue I had was geting the right fittings for the Master Cylinder to the proportioning valve but NAPA had the fitting in stock. It is hard to beat the kit for $524!

Good Luck and Be Safe
Ron
Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification
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Old 09-08-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Default Good Feedback

Good feedback - thanks for the input.
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Old 09-08-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Southlake   Texas
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I might just have to get myself one of those kits. Brakes on mine are almost undrivable, but i manage. Its all about how hard you push with mine. I realize with the dual master cylinder conversion kit, there isn't much room that the metal tubing allows. It was bad enough getting the thing on there for me but putting a booster on? Impossible. How did you get past this?
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Old 09-09-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Mililani   Hawaii
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I am pretty sure that I didnt do this by "the book" but this is what seemed to work for me. My starting point was stock, single bowl system, with original distribution block.

I bolted the booster and master cylinder in place and ran my new line to re-connect the rear brakes. Rather than working around the booster and m/c, I pulled them back out to give me some room. Using the rear line as a reference point, I ran the other line working backwards from the distribution block, to the proportioning valve and then back to where it should connect to the m/c. When I put the booster and m/c back in, I got pretty lucky and with minor tweaking the brake line was in the right spot.

I did learn that if you take the bracket off the booster first and mount it and then the booster, it goes much faster.

With the booster and m/c out of the way, it also allowed me to get the connections tight the first time. Not sure how I would have gotten them tight if I left them in.
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