[GGregory]

I have a 1966 with no door or buck tag, but I did find the build sheet behind the dash. Problem is part of the build sheet has been eaten away, (mice)? The code is 6T09A133105. I have found some stamped dates when I took the car apart. The dates were 10/20/65 and 10/21/65. With the code I listed and what you may have at home, would the dates I found stamped be about right?

Thanks, Greg

[Beagle1]

A safe rule is about 2 weeks past those Oct dates would be the build date.

Your fenders original? Is that where the dates came from. A 66 New Jersey built convert probably had sheet metal from Dearborn, so there should be a "D" with a 1, 2, or 3 with it. That is Dearborn Stamping, and the shift it was stamped.

If the 225hp 289 engine is original, the casting on that should be about 1 month before the cars build date. You can narrow that to the exact day also. The casted in date is above the starter.

Back then, build date on the door tag was more of a "suggestion" LOL, as they were +/- a few days at the rate they were making. Either way your car is an early build 66. Low VIN number too.

[Veronica]

Hello. The door tag on your car would have had a scheduled production date of about 25K, or, October 25. Although, as Beagle1 said, the car would have actually been built shortly after that. Based on some known Metuchan cars that were built right around then, they seemed to be running about a week behind at that time. But, this is all just an estimate based on other cars with similar vins.

[67ragtopStang]

The build date was the scheduled build date when the factory expected it to be built, but it was usually different from the actual build date.

I found two VIN's somewhat near yours:

6T07A134698 .........22K (Oct 22, '66)
6T08C136208..........26K (Oct 26, '66)

If I had to guess, I'd say 21K.

I found these VIN's at:

http://www.early-mustang.com/index.php

Are you sure the date stamps on your car are on original sheet metal?

[Beagle1]

Originally Posted by 67ragtopStang

I found these VIN's at:

64½ Mustang Restoration page of Klaus

Are you sure the date stamps on your car are on original sheet metal?

That's a good question. There's no way the metal stamping was after the scheduled build.

[GGregory]

Thanks for all your replys. I mentioned I found some dated stamps of 10/20 and 10/21. These were not on any sheet metal. The 10/20 was in ink on the inside of the rocker pannel and the 10/21 was also in ink on the underside of the dash pad when I removed it. It also was coded for B shift. Could this be correct?

Greg

[67ragtopStang]

I'm not sure why you are looking at date codes on parts. Who knows if those parts are original to the car because they are bolt/screw on parts. You should look for date code stamps on sheet metal that's been welded on.

Veronica or Jay H 237 should be able to nail down the scheduled date for you.

Next you should look for code tags/stamps on the engine, trans, and rearend. Look under the rear seat for evidence that the color the car is now is the original color. You could also scrape away some of the sound deadener in the wheel well to see the original paint color.

[GGregory]

Hey 67ragtopStang, thanks for your input, but I'm not going soley on what's stamped on parts. This car is very rough and most parts are gone. The parts left are original. This is what I know for sure.

The car came with no engine and tranny, no door or buck tag, but do have some of the original build sheet that was behind the dash, (mice got to it). Fenders and doors all have been changed

Body- 63A, Color-T, Trim-26, Date ? (looks like 2?K) DSQ- 13? Axle-6, Trans-5. I know what all this means!

Original rear bottom seat tag. No front seats.
HSWBP 414 65
JA6-2057A1
66ZB6363120A

Metal that the trap door is up against and is welded to the transition pan before it becomes the trunk floor area.
8 25 3

There are number/letters on both door jam areas that are hard to read, but looks like this.. 6 22 3W

Metal that the side louvers bolt to, 8 20 3 D

Inside rocker panel after the seat riser was removed had 10 21 B stamped

Vin # on both fender aprons and build sheet
6T09A133105

Steering box HCCAT 5K04B

Master Cylinder- Y C5 H4

Rear End - (I have this written down) C6OWA 8J25 22 Also have this number- C7OW 4025A 14, Not sure wich number is for the rear end I took out of the car, rear end is tucked away with other parts for now.
Kodakgallery.com: Slideshow

You can e-mail me at ggregory@rochester.rr.com and I will send you a lot more pictures.

Greg

[GGregory]

More pictures.


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[Veronica]

Hi again. There can be stuff on the car which is date coded slightly after the scheduled production date. It's actually pretty common. You would get dinged for it at an M.C.A. show, but it is not strange to see stuff dated as much as a couple of weeks after the door tag date. I had a K code once that had a door tag date of august 14th of 64 which had two original door panels dated sept 3rd and 4th of 64, the radiator fan and harmonic balancer, which are both K code specific and extremely rare, were both dated sept of 64 and were hanging on a numbers-matching, date coded corectly vin stamped motor. The hood was stamped august 28th and was a 64 1/2 style hood. This car was a more extreme example of that than most, but, it does happen.

[GGregory]

Hey all, Thanks for the input. It's nice te hear all the different things /ways these cars were built and etc. People love to tell there knowings or what they think they know/heard from others, whether it's correct or close enough? I would love to hear more.

My original question was whether or not the dates I found on the car to about right with the vin number I gave? The answer seems to be YES. I wanted to hear what others may think. The reason is because I want to have a door tag made up with the most logical dates/codes on that tag.

I know for sure a lot about this car from taking it apart. Earley 1966 A code Fastback, (early style motor mounts) Candy Apple Red, 4 speed New York Car and etc. For your info this car was last on the road in 1973 and sat 1/3 submerged in water, (depending on season) for over 30 years. There were more nut shells in this car then David Letterman has girl frineds.

The door tag I want made up will the most part look like this, unless you filks can see something I should change.

Body - 63A, Color - T, Trim - 26, Date - 28K, (which was a Tuesday) DSQ - 13, Axle - 6, Trans - 5

The only thing I see that could be changed is the Date. It could be somewhere between the 24 - 28? But knowone know's for sure unless you were right there building this car and taking it home with you. When I did take off the original dash pad it had in ink stamped 10-20-65 B shift plain as day. Was this the date that pad was made/shipped or installed?

Love to hear more!

I also have a 95% complete A code complete engine true GT coupe with 4 speed top loader if anyone is interested All metal is original. Needs floors, Quarters, fenders can be used but has some dents. The frame, torque boxes are rust free, vin # 6F07A165---
65A - Color - P, Trim - 26, Date - 15L, DSQ - 53, (where it has been until last year) Axle - 1, Trans - 5 I can use the money for my Fastback.

Thanks, Greg

[Veronica]

Hi again. The ink stamp on the dash pad was when the manufacturer made that dash pad. Your tag sounds about right. Right enough for nobody to be able to successfully argue with it, anyway.

[dodgermustang]

man that car got guted woooh

[Beagle1]

W=Woodhaven, MI. That is the first year that stamping plant was open! My grandpa probably made the die that stamped the part. Still is open, and still stamps Mustang parts. Now my brother fixes dies at Woodhaven the Mustang plant in Flatrock breaks.

B=Buffalo New York

D=Dearborn Stamping.