I re-sprayed mine last week. There was a small area of texture on my long console door that somehow has a different look. It isn't the paint, the bare metal looked different as well. But I think you are talking about an overall problem, not just in one particular spot.
Without knowing or seeing what you actually did I can only tell you my experience but it could be the paint you are using. I have the best luck with PlastiKote Low Gloss Black engine paint. If I try a Satin Black from the same company, but not in their engine paint line, I frequently get near fisheyes that make the finish look blotchy and also has some nearly gloss spots. Wiping it clean again with lacquer thinner and switching to the engine paint has always solved that problem. Don't ask me why, it just does. When it works correctly, either paint has similar gloss but the engine paint more reliably gives a good finish. So even though I don't need any heat resistance I use the engine paint on a lot of parts. I have also used, and not used their primer and personally can't see that the primer adds much to the process except adding more paint to fill up the texture in the metal.
I would also be careful with ANY steel wool. It may not scratch as quickly, but if you get vigorous with it it can scratch chrome. Once scratched chrome is scratched forever or until you replate the part. | 
That can happen if you didn't shake the can enough before you started spraying. You should shake the can for a couple of minutes before starting and shake it some as you go. And yes, you definitely should prime it first. Paint won't stick to metal. 
