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General discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustangs. Discuss all non-technical topics related Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 11-14-2009   #1 (permalink)
gavinbr is offline Rookie

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Talking Clutch install on 1965 mustang

Hello

I posted this under "Classic Tech". I'm re-posting here for a better audience?

I'm ready to install my clutch kit in my 1965 mustang for mating with my T5 transmission.

From what I have seen its appears to be pretty straight forward?

The bolts actually will align the disc, and the flywheel [157 tooth] and the pressure plate in conjunction with the centering tool and the pilot bearing [not a bushing]. My flywheel does not have dowels for the the pressure plate [10x1 1/16x10] like the newer ones?

The T5 bolts will do he same when I mate up the T5 to the clutch housing.

Is there something I'm missing here?

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Gavinbr [Brian]
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Unread 11-14-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Which parts are you using?
Is the engine an original 65 w/6 bolt bell and 28 oz imbalance, or a newer 50 oz imbalance?
Flywheel: Classic (28 oz) or Fox-Body (50-0z) or?
Bell Housing: Classic w/T5 adapter plate, or Fox-Body?
Clutch linkage: Z-bar original, or Cable converted? (hydraulic?)
Clutch/pressure plate: Classic, or Fox-body?
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Unread 11-14-2009   #3 (permalink)
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If you're old flywheel does not have dowel pin holes, you should consider adding them. They do keep the pressure plate centered, and prevent vibrations. Bolts are not good replacements for alignment pins.

The big trick is to use a good alignment tool on the disc. You should be able to slide the tool in and out with the just the lightest of pressure. If the alignment tool hangs up, so will the transmission input shaft.

DO NOT lubricate the input shaft. Anything you put there will end up on the clutch disc, and kill it. A little bit of grease on the bearing retainer helps the TO bearing slide easily. And I do mean "a little bit". Just the lightest of smears.

Get some 7/16" all thread. Cut two 3" pieces. Cut a screwdriver slot on the end. Screw them in to the bottom holes of the bellhousing. You can use them to guide the transmission into place. You shouldn't need to, but you can use the screwdriver slots to remove them
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Unread 11-14-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Guys thanks for the replies............

Answer to SPeace-ATL

What parts are you using?

Is the engine an original 65 w/6 bolt bell and 28 oz imbalance, or a newer 50 oz
imbalance?

Answer original 65 w/6 bolt bell and 28 oz imbalance [from what I understand a 50oz cannot be installed on a 1965 Mustang, my engine is 289 and not 302]

Flywheel: Classic (28 oz) or Fox-Body (50-0z) or?

Answer Flywheel: Classic (28 oz) flywheel #C30E 6360B 157 tooth

Bell Housing: Classic w/T5 adapter plate, or Fox-Body?

Answer Classic w/T5 adapter plate

Clutch linkage: Z-bar original, or Cable converted? (hydraulic?)

Answer Z-bar original

Clutch/pressure plate or Fox-body?

Answer Clutch/pressure plate: New "Valeo signature series" Diaphragm style

However my new installation will be a Valeo signature series Diaphragm style with a pilot bearing and not a bushing. This will be 10x1 1/16x10 as specified by Valeo.

The clutch kit I have removed and will discard was a three finger assembly that used 6 bolts. It was a 10 1/2x1 1/16x10. This was a no name clutch probably made in India or China. You needed to be a Schwarzenegger type to operate it

Bob,

I will consider adding the dowel pins. I noticed on the Ford Racing web site that if you go with a 10 1/2 disc and pressure plate that adding dowel pins is
mandatory?

Gavinbr [Brian]
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