AOD <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym> for 1968 Mustang conversion - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010 Thread Starter
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Question AOD trans for 1968 Mustang conversion

I was planning on using a C4 trans for my v8 conversion, but have become interested in learining more about using an AOD. I am looking for some ideas and thoughts from someone who has done this.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010
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This is a good topic. You'll get a lot of opinions ranging from difficult to."oh it's an easy swap" (and it is if you want to drop 1500.00)
So to save time there are a couple of suggestions
Mustangs Plus has the tranny conversion parts including the tranny cross member and they are very helpful. Every thing you need.
the work is not that hard....but the price is the killer. For me I kept hearing "oh it just drops right in" So being somewhat useful under the hood I forgot to ask about the ugly "secrets". I was pretty pizz'd off when I started shelling the bucks for this simple conversion. But I made the mistake of "assumptions that easy also mean't reasonable too" so my fault really.
One suggestion.... buy an AOD pre 1993 and you won't have the electronics issues to work around. Outside that.... take your driveshaft for alteration as well.

"After all ......looks ARE important"

1967 Diamond Blue Convertible all original survivor
1971 Mach I: 351c,Performer intake,Holley 750,Doug Thorley headers,duals (of course)Flowmasters, Accel dist/coil, MSD brain,Isky Cam .517/ADV Duration 280@ .050 Duration 232 LC 108, FMX with shift kit, 2800 stall, 3:89 gears:hihi:
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010
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Here's some reading for you, I'm still in the collection of parts phase:
Install An Automatic Overdrive

The most important part at the finish is to get the TV cable adjusted properly, you can't just guess at it and drive/adjust you can easily burn up the trans. with a misadjusted TV cable in less than a mile of driving. There are articles on this procedure, here's one link:
AOD TV Cable Adjustment

The forum is full of other AOD info. also:
General Click Click Tech

If you don't trust yourself to set it correctly have the car towed to a trans. shop and have them set it with the correct gauge.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010
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aod trans.

You didnt say what motor you want to run. If a 289-302 it is a basic nut and bolt swap. I have a 67 coupe with a 63 406cu in fe and a aod trans with TCI constant pressure valve body (no tricky tv valve adjustment) It has worked perfect for over 2yrs. I have about $1200.00 in the set up, but i drive the car most every day and drive it HARD. jmdjr67
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010 Thread Starter
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I am going to use a 302 for the swap.

All the information has been very useful, but I was hoping this would be a little less expensive. I am going ahead and looking for an AOD, it seems to be the best way to go.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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Get a 1990 or later AOD. The 1993 Crown Vic had the best of all of them but any AOD that was behind a V8 from 1990 - up is good enough. The constant pressure valve body is the best idea that anyone came up with for the AOD - it solves a number of the early failure problems. I would also suggest that you replace the OD servo with a n "A" or "A+" servo to make the OD live a respectable life.

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Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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There is also a nice linkage kit that will allow you to use your factory shifter, but you need to change the arm before you install the tranny in the car! I get tech calls all day long from people that work backwards and don't read the instructions.

Remember You will need the following in addtion to the Transmission:

The late model Flexplate is going to be a 50 oz, you will need a 28 oz Flexplate
Kick Down Cable for AOD Swap
Shifter linkage Kit
Crossmember
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2010
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Hi, I rebuilt a 1990 5.0 HO and the AOD tranny myself and put them into the 66 stang so it is a hard road but very doable and worth while. I rebuilt my own tranny and it is still running very well. There's a ford tech guy that puts out a video called Badshoe productions and he does one on the aod trannies. He walks you thru the whole process of disassemble and reassembly. It takes about 8 hours to do this and you have a like new tranny and it is built stronger than the factory model. the only specialty tools you will need is the seal protectors for about $100 or a little less. They are absolutely necessary for reassembly to protect the seals from being cut by the gear teeth. I am glad I did my own and have great confidence in the finished product. You might look into getting one of the constant pressure valve bodies from summitracing.com for around $200 and you won't have to be so concerned about the tv pressure cable setting. It would only be used for the shift timing at that point. Get the video first if you are considering doing it yourself so you can see what parts you will need upon disassemble. Good luck with your project.

One thing no one has mentioned so far is if you have the timid 3.0 rear gears or less...you will need to change them out to around a 3.50 . I am getting ready to do this as my next project because it won't shift into o.d. until about 65 mph or so...lol. The 3.50 is perfect from what people have told me that have already done this and it will shift right at 55 mph. As it is right now, I could probably go 160 mph because of the low rear end gears...the rpm's stay pretty low even at 80 mph...lol. I am looking to change that out pretty soon.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2010
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Uhhh, one more item I forgot to add is that if you have long tube hedders now, you won't be able to use them on the engine with the aod attached. It is just too wide for most of the long tubes. There are some you can buy...or use some shorties. I had to ditch my long tube hedders and put the lethargic original 302 exhaust manifolds on so I could start driving. But, I am also getting ready to order some shorties that will work and then have to re-do my exhaust to match. The shorties that come on a 5.0 will not work either because they are too wide for the shock towers. I have a pair that came on the 5.0 HO that I am using and they will not work in the 66 engine bay...but maybe in the 67 that you have?
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Jon hit the nail on the head.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonk67 View Post
Here's some reading for you, I'm still in the collection of parts phase:
Install An Automatic Overdrive

The most important part at the finish is to get the TV cable adjusted properly, you can't just guess at it and drive/adjust you can easily burn up the trans. with a misadjusted TV cable in less than a mile of driving. There are articles on this procedure, here's one link:
AOD TV Cable Adjustment

The forum is full of other AOD info. also:
General Click Click Tech

If you don't trust yourself to set it correctly have the car towed to a trans. shop and have them set it with the correct gauge.
Jon
Jon hit the nail on the head.....
One more link that might help -
Automatic Overdrive Transmission Swap - Mustang & Fords

and here -
Ford Transmission Swap - Overdrive Transmission Upgrade - Mustang Monthly Magazine"

Beri Fraley
Strong, Proud and Ugly

If you find yourself in a fair fight, you haven't been trained properly.
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With a 3.50 rear gear and an AOD your final drive is only 2.31. That isn't too bad for a run on the Salt Flats but at freeway speeds your carb is still in the idle / off-idle circuit. That means you are running the richest mixture you can. When you go to accelerate the carburetor will dive into the power circuit and the mixture gets even richer. To get the best gas mileage it is necessary to take the gears to 3.7 or lower (higher numbers). something that puts you into the cruise range of your carb. If you run electronic fuel injection the mixture is adjusted by the computer and you won't need to change gears.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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