I went to a few places and every shop suggests differant ways of removing my paint for the interior.
Basically the interior was originally blue then parchment I want it black and the original paint was not removed from under the dash.(glove box etc.)
What is the best to remove all the paint from door panels, under dash,rear interior panels and yet retain the texture.Keeping the texture is important would ordinary scotch pads that you use in the kitchen work well on the panels...
What would work best for the metal dash.
Last edited by drill sargeant; 03-29-2010 at 11:15 AM.
Reason: typo
As you said, there are many ways of removing paint and that many more opinions on the subject. I personally like sandblasting, but I don't mean to start an arguement, so check out this thread...
Pay attention to the link I referenced there too. It has even more good info. It comes down to what tools you have access too, how much money you can spend on it, and what methods you are comfortable tackling yourself.
I used scotchbrites on the doors and all of the fiberglass trim in the rear of my fastback without damaging the texture. I stayed with the original light blue so I didn't strip as aggressively on the dash.
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1967 Mustang Fastback
Acapulco Blue
289 HP bored .30 over
PA C4 transmission
A work in progress...
I am thinking of scotchbrites on the door and the rear panels. There so many scotchbrites which one did you use..Did you loose any texture at all.
I had a dumb question car is in storage right now,
does the paintable portion of the lower dash completely come out of the car..Would take a long time ,or do I have to paint under the dash by taping off the rest of the interior.
Does the steering column come out from the inside or are there any bolts under the hood as well.
unfortunately the steering shaft is connected directly into the steering gear box, meaning you can't pull the column out. You can pull off the steering wheel and pull the tube (or the column) off the shaft, but then you'd be left with a long metal shaft running up through there that is now supported by nothing (the steering has two bolts that mount it beneath the dash and screws into the firewall with 4 screws).
I just finished a total interior resto of my 65 coupe. Including taking everything down to bare metal. I did a lot of research, along with trial and error and this is what turned out to be the best (for me).
1) Use CitriStrip (available at Home Depot) on the painted parts. It's non-toxic and has no bad fumes. Even smells like oranges. Let it work as directed, hopefully in a place that's at least 60 degrees (works much better at higher temps). Scrape and re-coat. Depending on how many layers of paint you have, you'll need to do this several times.
2) Use a "medium" wire cup on a standard drill to take off any excess paint. You shouldn't need much pressure. Use a wire wheel on the drill to get into nooks and crannies of the texture. You may see very, very fine scratches or swirls after this process, but don't worry...they'll be less than the thickness of a coat of primer.
3) Wash down the area with a stripper neutralizer. Allow to dry. Then clean the metal with mineral spirits or other wax and grease remover. It'll probably be clean as-is, but better to be safe. You don't want to do this again (especially the dash).
3) Use the primer of your choice...but not the "high build" type. I used Rustoleum auto primer and it worked great.
4) Apply your paint in light, even coats. Not too much or you'll fill in that texture you worked so hard to get back.
5) MOST IMPORTANT (thanks, Veronica)- wait at least several days for the paint to harden before you begin to put the dash and doors back together. New paint is easily chipped.
6) When installing the instrument cluster, put some low-tack blue painter's tape around the dash opening. This will help prevent chips as you get the cluster seated. Before you screw it back in, have a helper hold the cluster loosely in place while you remove the tape.
You can check out some pics of the process in my profile.
I would not use a wire wheel or primer on the doors
I would not use a wire wheel or primer on the doors or on the rear textured panels.
You will damage the pattern on the doors and primer will fill in the texture.
Use the Orage stripper, but you willonly want to use scoth pads (or possible a dremel with a brass wire wheel) to clean up the doors.
You only want to put light coats of the interior lacquer on the doors and real panels to preserve the texture.
I tried thin primer on these once, and it didn't turn out well, I ended up stripping them again.
__________________
Beri Fraley Strong, Proud and Ugly
If you find yourself in a fair fight, you haven't been trained properly.
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking of using the wire cup brush on the door and rear panels. Have you used it before a body shop suggested that. ( soft one )
I tried using scotch brite on the dash stuff made no differance ( 600 grit),does the dash come off one body shop said yes the other said no.
My big concern for the door panel is if I put on the paint without any self etching primer would the paint stick and would it not scuff easily. Is primer not neccessary if it isnt I can skip it , I dont wanna re do anything.
I totally understand the apprehension to the wire brush. I was hesitant as well. But I heard from other members that had success with the process and tried it in a small area. It worked really well and didn't mess up the texture in any way. The scotchbrite pads actually scratched the metal more than the wire brush.
The photo below is a closeup of the texture after the process I outlined above. There's one light coat of primer and several light coats of interior paint from Mustangs Unlimited (Rainbow Industries). No evidence (so far) of the paint not grabbing.
There are a lot of ways to tackle this project...try out a few and see what works best for you.
Sargeant, the dash, as a whole, does not come off unless you want to bust spot welds. There are about 40 spot welds under the windshield that sandwich the upper cowl panel, lower cowl panel, and the upper dash lip. And just a few welds in the kick panel area. I removed my Upper Cowl Panel due to major rust around the top hats and had no real intention of removing the dash until after the cowl was removed and the dash was so loose that I popped the few remaining spot welds and out it came. It made cleaning it up soooo easy, but definately not worth the work unless you are removing the Upper Cowl Panel.
Thanks for posting the close up shot..Man that texture looks like the best Ive seen.
I will definately tackle the doors and the rear interior with the wire cup brush.
I will use a light coat of primer.
Sick:
Thanks for letting me know about the dash,that solves a lot of things for me.
I used a product called Jasco, its a chemical paint remover. You slap it on the door panel with a paint brush and it just melts the paint right off. Then with an other toothbrush, scrub any left overs. Also have some paint thinner to wipe off any residue left over from the paint.
yep...jasco works great. I chose citri strip 'cause it's non-toxic and non-noxious and I did the job in my garage. If you can strip the paint outside, I say bring on the heavy guns!
I called everywhere no one sells citristrip here in canada.
I checked home depot here they sell a product called heirloom its non toxic as well
anyone tried this.
1967 Mustang Complete Interior paint removal 
