1966 Trunk Lock - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011 Thread Starter
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1966 Trunk Lock

Have a new key lock assy for the trunk lock from Scott Drake can not get the key out? Any help
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011
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Let see if I can get this right. I saw it on VMF website. The guy said he took the key, and turned it and pulled it out. At the same time, he stuck a screw driver behind it and it came out! I'll see if I can research it. It wasn't that long ago.

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011
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Found it:

I purchased a new trunk lock bezel for my 65 but was having trouble removing the tumbler. I knew I would need to leave the key in the tumbler to remove it from the old bezel, but nothing was working. I did a search and found other comments (no pictures) that helped. Finally used a coat hanger wire to press down on the pin in the attached picture while turning the key. The pin, with resistance finally pushed in and allowed the tumbler to slide out. Surgery was successfull and patient is now stable.

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011 Thread Starter
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my problem is with the locking assy. Fully assembled ready to install into trunk but can not get key out. Thanks
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011
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OHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh The key is stuck in it??? WTF?? I don't know how I missed that. Try Wd-40 maybe. Just sit there and try wiggling it out.

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011
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That's not normal. Return it for another. How would you like to be at the store and get your key stuck in the trunk lock - -not cool!

Ride On,
Noel

"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011
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Hello Harold. Welcome to AFM.

If it won't come out no matter how you turn the key I would be checking the returns policy of whoever you bought it from. Sounds like a defective part to me.

Seems Noel agrees with me.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011
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Make sure the lock assembly is fully inserted into the chrome sleeve, and the tiny little pin is sticking up level with the sleeve. If that pin is still depressed, the key will not come out. You can try tapping lightly on the back edge of the key to help seat the lock mechanism into the sleeve.

I just replaced the chrome sleeve on my trunk lock a few weeks ago, and had to persuade the mechanism to seat. If that doesn't work, by all means take it back!
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011 Thread Starter
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OK Thanks for the info will try all suggestions. Just bought the Mustang and lock came with the car plus other parts.
Thanks again.
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If you do get it out, you might wire wheel the teeth on the key just a bit to take the sharp edges off. This may help keep it from getting stuck again.

Other things to try...

1.) Some light oil (wd40) squirted into the key slot followed by some compressed air blasts, accompanied by plenty of jiggling.

2.) Vibrations form something like a palm sander. Don't sand it obviously, but place it against the side or the handle while the sander is running, accompanied by plenty of jiggling.

3.) Repeat Step 1.

4.) Repeat Step 2.

5.) Hammer time!

Ride On,
Noel

"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
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The trunk lock is the most expensive lock on the car for unknown reason. It cost me more than all the others combined. I would be inclined to return it in 'as received' condition in hopes of getting one back that works. That would mean skipping the step with the hammer.

As a few words of encouragement, I bought one of the same locks a year or so ago and it worked just fine except it was a little notchy until I dulled the edges of the key a bit. The key is thinner than the originals which may explain part of that problem although I can't really tell you why or how.
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I was just going to start a thread on this same subject. So I have some questions??

How do you get the trunk lock rod and/or the cylinder out from the lock bezel? Does it come out together or separate?? My key does come out with ease.

My new set is a kit and that rod is on back order. I never put a trunk lock assembly together, any tricks to it??

I have the original trunk latch, (picture) When you close it into the striker plate, it will not catch to stay in place. I can manually move the catch and it will stay latched. It will also spring open when you open the latch. Is there a spring that's missing/broke inside so it the latch will stay closed?? Or do you just slam the trunk to make it stay shut?

Thanks Greg
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A couple of posts above mentioned the little pin in the back that keeps the lock cylinder in the sleeve. Once you depress that pin and pull out the lock cylinder (working trunk key required) then the lock rod just falls out of the sleeve through the front opening. Mine are all assembled or I would take some pictures. You can reuse your old lock rod: just take it out and put it in the new assembly. They are rarely damaged.

I don't see any parts you are missing. You have to adjust the strike plate and/or the lock body so that they mate correctly; both sideways and up/down. I do that by laying in the trunk with a flashlight and watching how the parts align when the lid is closed. (Wife, or whoever, may have to unlock the trunk and let you out in the latter stages of this game. ) When correctly adjusted you have to at least lightly slam the lid to get it to latch. Otherwise the lid won't seal tightly on the gasket and keep the water out.

IIRC the retaining pin is in the small hole shown in the left most SD part in your 2nd picture. Also, almost as expected I had trouble fitting the SD lock cylinder to my NOS lock sleeve. My notes:

The SD cylinder would not fit the NOS housing without about an hour's worth of filing and fitting to both the cylinder and the housing. Then the SD o-ring (larger than the Ford one) will not fit the housing. Luckily the NOS housing came with a correct o-ring.

I didn't make a note about it, but I seem to remember that part of the filing was to the retaining pin hole in the lock cylinder since the SD pin did not mate correctly to the sleeve. Whether an SD pin will mate correctly to their own sleeve is TBD. You may have to also use your set of Swiss files.

The O-ring is inside the cylinder to keep water from passing through into the trunk. A correct NOS Ford O-ring c1982 measures 0.068 x 0.70". The incorrect SD O-ring was 0.076 x 0.75". They obvioiusly have never seen a correct one. The correct one is a standard 2-016 O-ring!!! Not available in China??

WHY CAN'T REPRO PARTS BE MADE CORRECTLY??
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-05-2011 Thread Starter
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Got mine to work FINALLY turned key counter clockwise it came out. Very rough and hard to get key in and out. Word to the wise make sure everything turns smoothly before closing trunk.. After all of this REMOTE keeps popping in my head. LOL
Thanks again
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Ivy, I tried pushing in that little hole, but I think the pin is gone, rusted away. This latch was under water for about 22 years as was most of the car. It was pulled from a river, really. I only want the rod. The key still works the cylinder and does pull out. This key was from another car. It just happends to also fit this lock. There were no keys with this car.

Greg
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