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Old 09-16-2002   #1 (permalink)
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Default how to read a 1965 VIN

ok, people want us to decode tags and VIN's....the VIN is real easy, so I am going to start off with them, this is how to read a 1965 (early and late) VIN. Ford really never had a 1964 1/2 Mustang, and always refeered to the cars with a genorator as early 1965's and the ones with an alternator as a late 1965. All of them have a VIN for a 1965 car and there were never any 1964 Mustang part numbers, so in this thread, I will call what hobbiests call a 1964 1/2 an early 1965. I will be putting up all VIN codes up to a 1993 Mustang)

first digit=5 (5=1965)

second digit=assembly plant
Dearborn, MI=F
San Jose, CA=R
Metuchen, NJ=T

third and fourth digits=body code
coupe=07
convertible=08
fastback=09 (late 65 only)

fifth digit=engine
170 CID 6-cyl=U (early only)
200 CID 6-cyl=T (late only)
260 CID V8 2 BC=F (early only)
289 CID V8 2 BC=C (late only)
289 CID V8 4 BC=D (early only)
289 CID V8 4 BC=A (late only)
289 CID V8 Hi-Po=K (available in both early and late cars, after June 1,1964)

last six digits= the production number od the car, starting with 100001....each plant started with these last 6 digits.

Last edited by Twister; 09-20-2002 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 09-16-2002   #2 (permalink)
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Old 09-16-2002   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Noe, for the link. It is certainly helpful.

What Jon is doing is also very helpful because it lists all of the code values instead of just those for your VIN. While the MustangDecoder covers early 65's to 73 Mustangs, Jon will be posting VIN code breakdowns up to the 1993 Mustang. I for one am looking forward to seeing it.
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Old 09-16-2002   #4 (permalink)
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lol, Scott, both you and Ron have the same problem....it is JoHn!
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Old 09-19-2002   #5 (permalink)
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Last six digits: one two many zeroes in the string 1000...1?
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Old 09-20-2002   #6 (permalink)
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Sorry twister, the H key just doesn't want to work all the time..
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Old 09-20-2002   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff65
Last six digits: one two many zeroes in the string 1000...1?
thanks, it's fixed
Quote:
Originally posted by Ron
Sorry twister, the H key just doesn't want to work all the time..
sure....thats right....

Last edited by ScottHalliday; 09-20-2002 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 06-19-2003   #8 (permalink)
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Question

Ok....I'm confused. I looked on the drivers door of my 66 Coupe and saw a number.

It all agrees to the codes that Twister listed, BUT is says on the tag that its the Warranty # and not to be confused with the vehicle ID #.

What gives? Is this the VIN or not??? I can't find any other VIN....nothing on the dash or anywhere else.

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Old 06-19-2003   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GT Dan
Ok....I'm confused. I looked on the drivers door of my 66 Coupe and saw a number.

It all agrees to the codes that Twister listed, BUT is says on the tag that its the Warranty # and not to be confused with the vehicle ID #.

What gives? Is this the VIN or not??? I can't find any other VIN....nothing on the dash or anywhere else.

that is the VIN, it should also be stamped on the drivers front fender apron, and on most 1965-1967 stangs, on the drivers rear and passenger rear fender aprons hidden (most of the time) under the fenders. 1968 was the first year (and only time on the passenger side) that the Mustang had the VIN in the dash
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Old 06-20-2003   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GT Dan
Ok....I'm confused. I looked on the drivers door of my 66 Coupe and saw a number.

It all agrees to the codes that Twister listed, BUT is says on the tag that its the Warranty # and not to be confused with the vehicle ID #.

What gives? Is this the VIN or not??? I can't find any other VIN....nothing on the dash or anywhere else.

The VIN was stamped on the left front apron ahead of the shock tower but your car was likely hit (collision) and the apron was replaced. The result is no visible VIN underhood. The door tag does have the VIN number but since its removable, it isn't considered a legal VIN. Note: you have no problem because two more VIN stampings appear on the car with the fenders removed. Both appear on the inner apron under the lip of the fender hidden from view. Now if you ever take the fenders off and find the numbers there don't agree with the door tag, then you may have a problem.
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Old 06-20-2003   #11 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

The whole engine compartment is fairly dirty. I'm not really understanding what an "apron" is or where it is on the inside fenderwell. The VIN on the inside of the drivers door does seem correct with respect to the year, color, carb, etc. The stock rivets used to hold the plate on inside the door look original and like they have not been tampered with.....almost everything else looks original on this car except for the stupid funky speakers in the car and the fact that the stock radio was removed

The outside antenna looks ok but not quite like the ones I've seen on other 66's. The tranny is shot, but the motor fires right up (and I mean right up....one click and varoom). My 95 takes a little cranking to fire up. The way this motor fires right up reminds me of my father's 69 Bronco with 302. It use to only take one little click and it would fire right up.....just like a clock. This 66 says it only has 46k on it too! But who knows cause the speedo doesn't show 100k's.

I have another question. Did they ever have stock vinyl tops? This one has a black one on it and actually it isn't in that bad of shape. But I am worried about having any rust underneath it so I'm probably gonna rip it off and work the entire top over.

All of the emblems are on this car even the ring around the license plate and it even has two original black with golden letters/numbers license plate. However the other owner did try to paint over the numbers on the one set so it looks bad

This thing has what looks like the original muffler that runs parallel with the rear axle. Its a pretty kewl old car. Two other things. It has what sort of looks like an adjustable pressure differential switch for the master cylinder for the front and rear brakes. It does have stock front disk brakes. It does have a little electric relay box that does not look stock up on the drivers side next to the overflow tube on the side of the radiator.

I hope that this car can turn into a pretty kewl little project!!!
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Old 06-20-2003   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GT Dan
The whole engine compartment is fairly dirty. I'm not really understanding what an "apron" is or where it is on the inside fenderwell. The VIN on the inside of the drivers door does seem correct with respect to the year, color, carb, etc. The stock rivets used to hold the plate on inside the door look original and like they have not been tampered with.....almost everything else looks original on this car except for the stupid funky speakers in the car and the fact that the stock radio was removed

The outside antenna looks ok but not quite like the ones I've seen on other 66's. The tranny is shot, but the motor fires right up (and I mean right up....one click and varoom). My 95 takes a little cranking to fire up. The way this motor fires right up reminds me of my father's 69 Bronco with 302. It use to only take one little click and it would fire right up.....just like a clock. This 66 says it only has 46k on it too! But who knows cause the speedo doesn't show 100k's.

I have another question. Did they ever have stock vinyl tops? This one has a black one on it and actually it isn't in that bad of shape. But I am worried about having any rust underneath it so I'm probably gonna rip it off and work the entire top over.

All of the emblems are on this car even the ring around the license plate and it even has two original black with golden letters/numbers license plate. However the other owner did try to paint over the numbers on the one set so it looks bad

This thing has what looks like the original muffler that runs parallel with the rear axle. Its a pretty kewl old car. Two other things. It has what sort of looks like an adjustable pressure differential switch for the master cylinder for the front and rear brakes. It does have stock front disk brakes. It does have a little electric relay box that does not look stock up on the drivers side next to the overflow tube on the side of the radiator.

I hope that this car can turn into a pretty kewl little project!!!
I'm not really understanding what an "apron" is or where it is on the inside fenderwell.

The aprons form the engine side of the front fenders. It is sheet metal that forms the engine compartment. There are four apron pieces. Two forward of the shock towers and two aft of the shock towers. VIN stamps appear on the front left apron, the rear right and left aprons. There's a notch in the front left fender where the VIN stamp appears. This is not a tag, rather a stamping into the sheet metal. Two stars are at either end of the VIN. If this stamp doesn't appear on the apron, its most likely because the sheet metal was removed and replaced following a collision. The two VIN stampings on the rear aprons are not visible because they are stamped on the sheet metal under the mounting lip of the fender. They're only visible with the fenders removed.

I have another question. Did they ever have stock vinyl tops? Yes, it was optional.

But I am worried about having any rust underneath it so I'm probably gonna rip it off and work the entire top over. Good idea. Molded vinyl tops are available as a replacement item. You can still get them. See NPD or any of the larger classic Mustang parts vendor catalogs.

This thing has what looks like the original muffler that runs parallel with the rear axle.

That was one possible configuration for exhaust. There are three different configurations. Single, Dual with in line mufflers and Dual with transverse muffler. You have the third type. Not uncommon.

It has what sort of looks like an adjustable pressure differential switch for the master cylinder for the front and rear brakes. That is a brake proportioning valve. It sets the pressure offset between front and rear brakes as required for mixed disc/drum brakes. Since its adjustable, its likely an aftermarket replacement for the original. Disc brakes are added by many owners so yours may not be original even though they are made from original Ford parts.

It does have a little electric relay box that does not look stock up on the drivers side next to the overflow tube on the side of the radiator. This is the voltage regulator. It controls the alternator such as to keep the voltage output stable as rpm changes. Basically as rpm increases from idle, the voltage regulator serves to hold the voltage ceiling at about 14.5 volts maximum. On cars with idiot lights for the alternator, it also has a relay that controls when the idiot light comes on. This is standard equipment although often the older mechanical relay model has been changed for a newer solid state model. Both work the same, just that the older one is electromechanical and the new one is electronic. Old one is about 2" tall. Newer is about 1" tall.

Classic Mustangs are cool cars. Thats why there are so many folks interested in preserving the little old fellows. You can restore one to near showroom condition if you have the time and patience. My '65 is so nearly like new the interior smells like a new car but then I've spent some money and time getting it that way.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...t=7&thecat=998
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Old 09-10-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Default Identify engine model from VIN for in 1965 convertible- help

I am looking to buy a 1965 Mustang convertible with the following VIN and my research (decoder, etc) is not showing that this reflects the engine.

5F080377925

I read in

How to Decode a Classic Mustang's VIN & Data Plate

that "If you’re dealing with an engine, unless it’s an original, you won’t necessarily find the number. Even if it is original, you won’t find the number on pre-1968 Mustangs (1964 1/2- 67 K Codes are the exception)."

Help. is this true as other information indicates engine should be identifiable. Thanks
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