Hello everyone, I just put my intro post up, and here my first question: My goal is a 1965-1966 mustang,289, I will have about 10,000 to spend. What are the most important things to get for my $$$$. I figure a rust free[or as less as possible]body and undercarriage are primary.[straight too, no bondo] All other things can be fixed/replaced. What can I expect for this money?? I know this is a very sujective question, but you gotta start somewhere, right??? Thanks everyone, Lenny [love these icons]
Hello. Welcome.You shouldn't have any problems finding a pretty nice 65/66 coupe in that price range.Straight, rust-free body, runs and drives well, paint not great but ok, same with the interior, ugly under the hood but not leaking anything.A nice convertible or fastback would be significantly more but that is not at all unrealistic for a coupe.Hope that helps.
Hi again.I'd say that you should expect to see a bunch of cars that have been hacked up in every way imaginable by the time you finally buy one. But yes, I was talking about a car with solid, original floors.Good luck.
no doubt, salt is a killer, lots of it here in Delaware, I'd fly to a car that was from a salt free place, much more sensible purchase...
yeah well at least you dont live ON a salt mine. but yes salt is bad. also i have found that magazines like Auto Trader are good to compare prices.
__________________
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 Liter V8 Magnum 4X4. Lund Hood Scoops.
Coming soon: Green Underglow Neon (or LED Lights) Cold Air Intake, Pipes coming right off the headers for an exhaust, and maybe a sound system too.
I have one for $11,000.00 in in Kentucky. You can see it at www.kendaleclassics.com This car is very straight and has great floor pans and frame rales. The only thing I know wrong with it, is the hood has some dents in it.
i bought mine on ebay it was awestern car so very little rust frame rails need a little work but not bad i bought car for 3500 and spending around 6000 to fix up. very little body work mostly fixing what the last owner tried to do car was a 6 i built a 302 and went to 5 lug and fr. disc stayed with c-4 had to change bell housing biggest expense in new motor 2500, wheels and tires 1200 the rest of the money spent on new chrome and nick nacks.
Shop---$10kCAN get you a nice coupe..Shop,don't rush,an all original(body)may take some time to find
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!
"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know
I bought my 67 coupe for $5700 and it was in pretty good shape. The floors and frames are good with a little rust showing on the floors. Take your time and inspect everything. Most sellers wont let you pull up the carpet, but be persistent and look at every piece of the car. Also, don't forget to check the cowl vent for leaks. Take a bottle of water and pour it into the cowl vent, if you notice any water leaking onto the floor from the firewall area, it will be a big area of concern and huge red flag. At 10k you will be able to buy a coupe that is in good condition and is nice and straight. Good luck and fill us in on what you end up getting.
__________________
1967 Mustang C Code Coupe
Warmed up 289
T-5 Conversion
9" Ford Trac-Lok
-----------------------------
2001 Mustang GT (Average DD w/ Bolt-Ons)
-----------------------------
1968 Mustang Coupe
On Going Project
Newbie w/ a newbie question 
[love these icons]
Welcome.You shouldn't have any problems finding a pretty nice 65/66 coupe in that price range.Straight, rust-free body, runs and drives well, paint not great but ok, same with the interior, ugly under the hood but not leaking anything.A nice convertible or fastback would be significantly more but that is not at all unrealistic for a coupe.Hope that helps.
But yes, I was talking about a car with solid, original floors.Good luck.
