Hi, me and my father were looking to buy an old mustang; We ran into someone who is selling a '66 Mustang Ragtop for $12,000. It has about 50,000 miles on it, and little things like A/C and what not are already installed. But it needs a new paint job, it is cracked and faded. I was wondering if this is a fair price or if we should try to talk him down a couple thousand dollars? Or if we should just try to look for a better deal altogether... Please lend any info or advice that you think would be helpful.. Thanks!
Man heck NO its a ragtop (I dont like ragtops) and if you have to give it a paint job then heck NO. Old cars are not worth all that much unless it has something rare. Like a boss 429. If its a 6cyl. like a max a $5000. 289/302/351w $8000, 351C $10000-15000 but I wouldnt pay that if you have to paint it but this is just me. Some people will disagree but $12,000 it better be painted and v8. I would look around some more
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95/5.0 Long tube headers, xpipe, flowmasters, with dumps, 9mm plugg wires, msd cap and rotor, 70mm tb, trick flow intake manifold, under drive pullys, smog elim kit. summit coil, subframe connectors, summit double roller timing chain, and a cam not sure what for cam bc it was in the car when i purchesed it!
Man heck NO its a ragtop (I dont like ragtops) and if you have to give it a paint job then heck NO. Old cars are not worth all that much unless it has something rare. Like a boss 429. If its a 6cyl. like a max a $5000. 289/302/351w $8000, 351C $10000-15000 but I wouldnt pay that if you have to paint it but this is just me. Some people will disagree but $12,000 it better be painted and v8. I would look around some more
SOME people might disagree? The only people that will disagree are those who have a damn clue what they are talking about. You, mister lugthug713 are a tool. Old cars are worth MORE than a new one. Economics 101: Antiques = appreciating asset, modern items = depreciating asset. Simple as that!
Clearly, the full scope of your ignorance has yet to be seen. We're discussing the value of a vintage car, information which you don’t seem to have much of. Please, for the good of the other users of this forum don’t post unless you completely understand the topic at hand, or at least enough to know you ass from a hole in the ground. You sir are a pompous little ass who thinks that what he likes is the most valuable and the best, yet doesn’t consider either what the current trends are, or what the rest of humanity happens to like. If you had done either, whatever you just said might be REMOTELY accurate, but NO, you had to open your fat mouth when I bet you've never even SEEN a 66 Mustang convertible, let alone worked on one.
Moving on to the matter at hand, Verts are very desirable, for a good condition V8 car that's somewhere between a good deal and a steal. For an I6 car it still aint too shabby.
Rust is a deal killer, verts especially. It being a vert its probably best if you have it inspected by a mustang guy. If the inner rockers or torque boxes are shot (common vert problem) the value drops like Wiley Coyote off a cliff.
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66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
With classics price is dependant on condition and desirability of the vehicle.I'm not too sure on prices in your part of the world but if I found a reasonable driving vert for that money it 'd be in my driveway before tomorrow as the previous poster said check carefully for rust and dodgy repairs
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Wimblton white 66 coupe C code 289 auto
97 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 auto, lift ,winch,33's etc
04 Holden VY SS 5.7 auto (wifes)
88 KLR 250
DISCLAMER:
Please feel free to ignor all advice/information offered
I could be wrong...... I have been before.
Try the NADA website, they will at least give you a ballpark figure to deal from. Anyway. low retail for a car that needs some work but is basically solid 16K, for a car that is mint figure 40K+, so 12 K seems a little low which would make me very wary. Also the 50,000 odo reading is flaky-no one is gonna sell a car with so few miles for 12K you can figure that milage to be 150 at least if not more. It's an interesting find but it doesn't smell right, move slow and be very careful.
Hello.There are a lot of variables in determining what a 66 convertible would be worth.You had four choices of motors in 66 and the 5th digit of the VIN will tell you what the car came with. If it is a 'T' the car was a 200cid 6cyl.If it's a 'C' that's a 289cid V8 with a 2bbl carb, an 'A' is a 289 4bbl, and a 'K' is the high performance, 271hp 289 4bbl. There were also two different trim levels, standard and 'Interior Decor Group' as in deluxe, or 'pony' interior, in a gazillion different color combinations, some much more desirable than others.You had the 3-speed manual, 4-speed manual and 3-speed automatic transmissions, you also had an extremely long list of available options, such as the GT package, power steering, A/C, power brakes, front disc brakes, am/fm radio, 8-track tape player, seat belt warning light, a cigarette lighter which was also a map light,(that one was particularly cool)etc....And then there's the condition of the particular vehicle you're considering.The short version would be that the car is worth something between 0 and about a half a million,(it might be the missing 66 Shelby GT-350convertible, but I doubt it ) depending on a number of things.The more information that you could provide about the car, the closer we could dial in that value. Hope that helps.
And, just so you know, Lugthug, the fact that you personally don't care for convertibles means nothing.Many people like convertibles, and that fact is reflected in both the prices that they actually bring and the difficulty in locating a good one.A 65 GT convertible sold at Russo and Steele earlier this year for 67,000.The car was perfect, though, with irrefutable documentation.Very nice 'A' code convertibles routinely sell in the low 30s and nice 'K' code convertibles bring nearly 50k.I have a 64 1/2 convertible with a 260 V8, auto, A/C sitting in my garage that I could sell very quickly in the mid-20s. It's a very nice car, but by no means is it perfect.I drive it all the time. In the future, you might want to consider researching an opinion so that your final formulation of it is more consistant with what is actually happening in the market.Or not. It's all good.
I personally don't like convertables, however that has nothing to do with how much a car is worth. You really need to look at what kind of condition the body is in. I had a 66 hardtop with a 289 in it and paid 6K for it. It ran good with few problems and no rust on the body. I then found a 65 fastback (my dream car) and the interior is in worse condition and the engine leaks. I sold the 66 and actually got back what I paid for it and bought the 65 fastback for 13K. I actually got an awesome deal on the 65 even though it was not in as good condition as the 66 and cost over 2x as much. The point is that you have to shop around and learn what a good deal is. The day I drove the 65 home I was offered 20K on the spot for it from one of my buddies that owns a autobody shop. My best advice would be to shop around on the internet to see what the market value is on these cars right now, then take someone that knows about cars with you to help you check the car out. But RESEARCH is the best thing you can do to know if this is a car you want to buy.
Convertibles are generally worth more than hardtops.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
You have really got to get under the car and look for rust......everywhere! I personally would avoid 6 cylinders.
Why are you buying the car? How are you going to use it? If you're a hot foot go 4 speed V8 w/out A/C. If you want a cool ride in comfort go auto V8 w/ A/C. Figure how much you're going to spend to put it in the condition you want it in and add in the purchase price and decide if it's worth it to you........and Dad. Many times you're better off paying more for a better car than having all the work done yourself. Most of the $12K cars I've seen could use paint.
I have a 1964 Vette (besides the 1964 1/2 coupe I'm working on) and people constantly ask me what it's worth. I usually throw out a number and then say it doesn't really matter, I don't plan on selling it. It's a passion not an investment, but that's all attitude. Do an attitude check. Again, why are you buying the car.
Good luck.
Hey Dude,
First, I doubt it has 50K OEm miles. Is it a V8? Check for rust. I restored a '64 1/2 cvt. It had lots of rust. Unlees you own a plasma cutter and a mig/tig welder and are quite handy, or, have deep pockets, do alot of homework. Verts are more desirable, but, are more expensive to repair, as well.
Good luck!
Why is the ac out of it?
Careful on the car, my first stang was a 64.5 from Illinois, A LOT OF WORK, Check the floor pans, trunk edge between the quarter panel and fuel tank (inside of trunk and up under car), these are really prone to rust, check inside and out as some people weld over the rust and from one isde or the other it may look solid, lips of the wheel wells and behind rear tires are prone to rust. If you can look under any of the carpeting check the floorboards. If the car truly has 50k miles and was stored inside you may have a pretty good deal on a convertible. You may want to look down south, get away from the rain and salt, it may cost more but save you time and money later. DONT BUY over the internet without personally inspecting or paying thrid party like an inspector from NADA(about $200.00 I think) to inspect the car.
Hi, me and my father were looking to buy an old mustang; We ran into someone who is selling a '66 Mustang Ragtop for $12,000. It has about 50,000 miles on it, and little things like A/C and what not are already installed. But it needs a new paint job, it is cracked and faded. I was wondering if this is a fair price or if we should try to talk him down a couple thousand dollars? Or if we should just try to look for a better deal altogether... Please lend any info or advice that you think would be helpful.. Thanks!
IMHO $12,000 is fair only if there is no rust out on the under side. Another problem area is the cowl area were the fresh air vent are into the car. Run water into the cowl vent to check before you buy. its a real job to fix this problem. the mileage might be more like 150,000 unless the 50,000 can be proven. check NADA for ball park worth of the car. Ragtops are cool but can be a big headace. I am a hardtop guy
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barryt
66 embrglo coupe
289/auto/air/power steering
Ok... I should have read everyone's posts a little more thouroughly. I was going to mention the cowl as well. Fixing the cowl correctly can be quite expensive when having a body shop do it. You're looking at even more cost involved if the cowl is damaged enough that the floorboards are shot. The first repair I tackled on my 66 was the cowl/ floorboard repair. It ate my budget right away and I've been struggling to save for further bodywork ever since. Of course buying other Mustangs didn't help the matter but that's my own fault.
It's a sickness.
Good luck and look her over really well if you're considering a purchase. All the advice in this thread should be like gold to you. Everyone is speaking from experience and ultimately is trying to help save you money.
Have a good one,
Snack
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66 Coupe Tahoe Turq - 200, Pertronix & Flamethrower, 3 Row Rad, Cliff. 6/2 96 GT Vert Laser Red - FMS pulleys, Bullet ProM, BBK CAI, Prof. Prod. Elbow and 70mm TB, MAC Off-Road H, Borla side exhaust, Tokicos, B&M Ripper, 18x10 & 18x9 DD Bulletts 06 GT Tungsten, UIP, Red Leather, Stick, 18" blades, Steeda CAI, SCT XCal 2 w/ MC Racing 91 tune, MACs, BMR SP010 springs, BMR Adj Panhard, CDC ducktail & quarter louvers, Rear louver, painted black stripes
Ok... I should have read everyone's posts a little more thouroughly. I was going to mention the cowl as well. Fixing the cowl correctly can be quite expensive when having a body shop do it. You're looking at even more cost involved if the cowl is damaged enough that the floorboards are shot. The first repair I tackled on my 66 was the cowl/ floorboard repair. It ate my budget right away and I've been struggling to save for further bodywork ever since. Of course buying other Mustangs didn't help the matter but that's my own fault.
It's a sickness.
Good luck and look her over really well if you're considering a purchase. All the advice in this thread should be like gold to you. Everyone is speaking from experience and ultimately is trying to help save you money.
Have a good one,
Snack
a sickness yes insane no
im in the same boat
i havnt finished one stang an i bought another then i looked at a studebaker today haha we're all crazy... about cars, to spend what we do ... o well gotta love what comes of it all
66 Mustang, need advice please. 
Old cars are worth MORE than a new one. Economics 101: Antiques = appreciating asset, modern items = depreciating asset. Simple as that!
There are a lot of variables in determining what a 66 convertible would be worth.You had four choices of motors in 66 and the 5th digit of the VIN will tell you what the car came with. If it is a 'T' the car was a 200cid 6cyl.If it's a 'C' that's a 289cid V8 with a 2bbl carb, an 'A' is a 289 4bbl, and a 'K' is the high performance, 271hp 289 4bbl. There were also two different trim levels, standard and 'Interior Decor Group' as in deluxe, or 'pony' interior, in a gazillion different color combinations, some much more desirable than others.You had the 3-speed manual, 4-speed manual and 3-speed automatic transmissions, you also had an extremely long list of available options, such as the GT package, power steering, A/C, power brakes, front disc brakes, am/fm radio, 8-track tape player, seat belt warning light, a cigarette lighter which was also a map light,(that one was particularly cool)etc....And then there's the condition of the particular vehicle you're considering.The short version would be that the car is worth something between 0 and about a half a million,(it might be the missing 66 Shelby GT-350convertible, but I doubt it 
