I have a '64 coupe with a 351w that has also been converted to an alternator system. I want to change all the wiring harnesses. Which year, 64, 65, or 66, is the best choice? I realize each comes with its own challenges but I intend to drive this thing and I want it to work. The car is striped for painting (except engine). Also, any recommendation on a source for the parts would help. I'm not planning anything fancy in the way of options; I'm even leaving the stock radio.
Check out a company called Painless Wiring I think they have a web site. All of their kits have the correct color codes on the wires plus they have written on the wires what component the wire goes to. In looking at the different year harnesses it seems that all of the issues with variations in different components such as gauges vs indicator lights, two or three speed heater fan motors, alternator or generator, ect. had pretty much "settled down" by 1966. The 66 harnesses seem more generic and may be what you would be looking for if originality isn't an issue. No harness assys. are cheap but getting a good quality wiring system has many obvious benefits. Painless is worth looking at if it were my car. I wish you all of the best with your project,---Chuck
Hello. You would want to use the 64 1/2 wiring harnesses because of the location of the brake light switch and horns, and then wire up the alternator like this diagram. Hope that helps.
I still don't understand why, with all of the variants in the 64 1/2 and 65 models it wouldn't be easier using the 66 wiring and the pedal mounted brake switch. What if a dual master cyl. was in the plans then you're hacking up a new harness. You can still use the original master cyl. with the hydraulic switch in place and the pedal type switch used in stead or he can remove the hyd. switch and plug the port. Also the alternator wiring is already there with the 66 harness. He's not looking for originality as best I can gather, just a dependable daily driver set up.--- Chuck
Thanks, the pic clears things up about the GEN & ALT difference.
However, I'm still confused about changes necessary for electronic ignition. The motor (351w) was installed before I bought the car. It works well, but the wiring is a mess so it's hard for me to figure out what's done, and why (no experience here).
If I use all new '64 harnesses, and connect the alternator as in your pic, will I still have to modifiy the harness for an electronic ignition? Or is that connection the same regardless of the ignition type (point or electronic)?
The electronic set up is nothing more than a replacement for the points. It's a circuit interrupter just like the points opening up. There should be a red/green stripe wire from the fire wall through a three prong connector that goes to coil + terminal then a wire from coil neg. to the distributor. and a wire to ground from the dist. unless the dist. uses its housing as a ground. The other two wires from the three wire prong connector white/blue stripe is to the oil pressure sender and the red/white stripe wire to eng. temp. sender. I have a Mallory electronic dist. and it hooked up just like the points set up. You may want to procure a schematic diagram ,it may help clear up all of the mystery to this.----Chuck--------- One more thing I want to add the electronic set up you're going to use may require the addition of a 12 volt power source from the ignition switch key on position.
The electronic set up is nothing more than a replacement for the points. It's a circuit interrupter just like the points opening up. There should be a red/green stripe wire from the fire wall through a three prong connector that goes to coil + terminal then a wire from coil neg. to the distributor. and a wire to ground from the dist. unless the dist. uses its housing as a ground. The other two wires from the three wire prong connector white/blue stripe is to the oil pressure sender and the red/white stripe wire to eng. temp. sender. I have a Mallory electronic dist. and it hooked up just like the points set up. You may want to procure a schematic diagram ,it may help clear up all of the mystery to this.----Chuck--------- One more thing I want to add the electronic set up you're going to use may require the addition of a 12 volt power source from the ignition switch key on position.
Is the "three prong connector" part of one of the wiring harnesses I'll replace, or it something I have to add?
There are numerous wires that come from the firewall, none of which are orginal. Who ever installed this engine used mostly old extention cords, and speaker wire (makes it hard to determine color).
This car is currently running, so what ever this guy did works. I just want cleanup what's needed, and get rid of what's not.
It's part of what you'll be replacing. It is the part of the harness that provides a path from the main harness to the engine. It provides the voltage to the coil plus terminal and the oil and eng. temp. senders.---Chuck
Hi again. A lot would depend on how early his car is. On my 64 1/2 convertible there isn't anywhere on the brake pedal to attach the switch. That little stud that sticks out of the pedal right below the pedal bracket isn't there, so that would be one problem. He also probably has those big horns that mount down on the strut rod covers along with a horn relay on the radiator core support by the voltage regulator, which, come to think of it might still be the one with independent spade connectors, so the horn wires won't be anything close to long enough. Using the 'as original' wiring just seems like the easiest way to go to me.His headlight switch is different, his wiper switch is different, lots of little things. One could make the painless wiring work, but it would be a far cry from painless, and the 66 wiring would cost a little more because of the adaptations he would need to make to his car.The dash doesn't have the little dip in it for the round speedo of a 66. You can still wrestle it in without damaging anything, but it's a pain and the only screws that you can use to hold the instrument pod in are the four across the top. The earlier Falcon style bezel had the tabs for the lower screws at a different angle, so the lower screws of the 66 bezel don't have anything to hook to. A bunch of little things. I guess that the bottom line is that, I don't care what his title says, that ain't a 65 model car he's driving.
I'm not sure how "early" the car is but the horns are mounted as you discribed, and I certainly want this as close to bolt-in as possible. Are the "early '65 harnesses" what I'm looking for? I haven't seen any listed as '64.
Hi again. You would want the ones that say W/Gen instead of W/Alt and then wire in your alternator like the diagram shows. The wiring for the windshield wiper motor is not included with the underdash harness so you'll need to either get that also or just use the assembly that's in the car.You should have an orange wire that's a couple of inches long sticking out of the windshield wiper switch plug with a female connector. The new underdash harness will have the wire that plugs into that to supply power to the system. The job isn't nearly as difficult as it might appear. Just take your time and have a wiring diagram handy to help you sort out where everything goes and you will end up with something that you can be happy with.Good luck.
Hi again. You would want the ones that say W/Gen instead of W/Alt and then wire in your alternator like the diagram shows. The wiring for the windshield wiper motor is not included with the underdash harness so you'll need to either get that also or just use the assembly that's in the car.You should have an orange wire that's a couple of inches long sticking out of the windshield wiper switch plug with a female connector. The new underdash harness will have the wire that plugs into that to supply power to the system. The job isn't nearly as difficult as it might appear. Just take your time and have a wiring diagram handy to help you sort out where everything goes and you will end up with something that you can be happy with.Good luck.
Hello. You would want to use the 64 1/2 wiring harnesses because of the location of the brake light switch and horns, and then wire up the alternator like this diagram. Hope that helps.
Am I looking at the "alternator / generator feed harness" ?
Hi again. The brake light wiring is on the engine gauge feed and the horn wiring is on the headlight feed. As far as a source goes, there is a place right outside of Houston that has a very knowledgeable and honest staff at www.mustangmania.com If they don't have it there is another place here in Houston with, in my opinion, a very ignorant and deceitful staff, but they have the stuff that you need, called John's Mustang. They also have a website at www.johnsmustang.com Hope that helps.
Hi again. The brake light wiring is on the engine gauge feed and the horn wiring is on the headlight feed. As far as a source goes, there is a place right outside of Houston that has a very knowledgeable and honest staff at www.mustangmania.com If they don't have it there is another place here in Houston with, in my opinion, a very ignorant and deceitful staff, but they have the stuff that you need, called John's Mustang. They also have a website at www.johnsmustang.com Hope that helps.
Thanks for the souces.
I guess it will become clearer once I see the harnesses, but I'm still confused about the wires between the alt/gen and the regulator. Are those the "alternator feed harness" or will I make the new connections with seperate wires?
I can't use my car as a reference since most of the wires were changed one way, or another.
'64 coupe wiring harness change 
You would want to use the 64 1/2 wiring harnesses because of the location of the brake light switch and horns, and then wire up the alternator like this diagram. Hope that helps.
